921030 Too Fast - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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921030 Too Fast

Well after my first use of my new snow blower in 30+ inches of snow in this weekends historic snow totals in downstate NY (Long Island)... I am in love. Now, my only issue is that in the slowest gear it moves too fast. At times it makes the automatic auger (being able to release the lever) feature useless, as I have to feather the drive lever to slow it down.

Now, I have every gear position, so it isn't like I am lined up in 2nd in the first postion.

Is there anyway to have it run slower? I don't care if it runs slower in reverse as well.

Thoughts?
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 07:33 PM
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Usually it is possible to adjust the trans linkage to favor reverse. This will slow down all F speeds and speed up all R speeds. Some machines have more adjustment room than others.

Other options would be:
Cut a new slot in the dash between N and F1.
Change the pulleys and gear ratios to slow down the wheels.
Change to smaller diameter wheels.

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post #3 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPaul View Post
Well after my first use of my new snow blower in 30+ inches of snow in this weekends historic snow totals in downstate NY (Long Island)... I am in love. Now, my only issue is that in the slowest gear it moves too fast. At times it makes the automatic auger (being able to release the lever) feature useless, as I have to feather the drive lever to slow it down.

Now, I have every gear position, so it isn't like I am lined up in 2nd in the first postion.

Is there anyway to have it run slower? I don't care if it runs slower in reverse as well.

Thoughts?
We get a lot of storm normally here except this year because I got a new snow Blower . But I never used a friction drive blower after a storm that I didn't have to play with the drive lever even in first gear . They set the first gear for 16 inch of snow I believe. And probably not wet or hard packed stuff.
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Will notching the lever below 1st cause damage to the trans?

If not, how does one determine how far to make the notch?
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 10:35 PM
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I would try to adjust it before I started grinding on the control panel but that would work too.

If you wanted to know where to grind just fire the machine up and engage the drive out in the open and gently move the shifter to a position with a low speed you like and use something to mark the panel for a grinder and or round file.

This might help you understand how it's working.


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post #6 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 10:36 PM
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It might cause extra wear on the friction disc rubber, but in general it won't damage anything. You can actually use the blower with the shifter in any position, it just won't lock unless it is in one of the gears. You can experiment with holding the shifter in one hand while engaging the wheels and see what speed is comfortable. When you find the spot you like mark the dash for where to cut it.

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post #7 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 10:41 PM
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The thing about the shifter is you can gently move it while it's running and engaged but if you force it gear to gear then you can do damage.

Being gentle with it you can move it around below first without damage but like I said you just want to be gentle. Or you can disengage, move a bit and engage drive again.

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post #8 of 13 Old 01-25-2016, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPaul View Post
Will notching the lever below 1st cause damage to the trans?

If not, how does one determine how far to make the notch?
Grinding a notch would probably void your warranty. Don't want to do that on a new machine.

If you tilt the blower up on its bucket, you can see how the drive works. In the fastest gear, the rubber wheel should be at the edge of the aluminum drive plate. At the slowest speed, it should be near the centre of the plate. In reverse, it will be on the opposite side of the plate. See how close to centre it is in 1st gear forward, then adjust the linkage if possible to move it closer to centre, but NOT right on the centre line or it won't go anywhere.

If you cannot get what you need in that adjustment, then talk to your dealer and ask about getting a smaller pulley for the traction system on the engine. You would probably have to replace the drive belt as well for a slightly shorter version to keep the correct tension.

Best bet is to remove gas from the tank before tilting the machine up, and let it sit for a while after lowering it back down to let the oil run back into the crank case.

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Last edited by skutflut; 01-25-2016 at 10:49 PM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-26-2016, 11:16 AM
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To avoid any problems with your warranty, but get the lowest forward gear, you can optimize the trans reverse setting. The hex shaft that turns the friction wheel has two stops, forward stop and reverse stop, that are pins fitting into the hex shaft. The trans shifter adjustment will not force the friction wheel carrier mechanism against both stops. So adjust the shifter mechanism to ensure the friction wheel mechanism is tightly against the reverse stop (right side of driven plate when machine in maintenance position). When you then move the trans to the 6th gear position it will barely reach the stop.

That adjustment will give you the fastest reverse and the slowest first gear for the stock machine. So your warranty is still good. With this adjustment my first gear is so slow it is a pain and I never use it but reverse is nice.

Good luck.

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post #10 of 13 Old 01-26-2016, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, that video gave me all the visuals I needed. I will try and mess with it when I have free time. I doubt we will get another 30"+ snow storm this season, so I should be good. It was just too much snow to move this time at the slowest speed. I can see under normal snow totals (foot or less), it would be perfectly fine in the stock location.
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