Ariens 924050 crankcase breather leaking gas - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 10-07-2016, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens 924050 crankcase breather leaking gas

I have an Ariens 924050 s/n 006302. Engine is HM80-155128E s/n 9017 D

Tecumseh Owner's Manual and Operating Instructions is 181-151-1 dated 11-1-78.

Number on carburetor is 5002E7K.

2015 I fired it up and was clearing some snow. Same as numerous times before.

Then I noticed gas spraying out of the crankcase breather tube. Engine was running fine. By the time I noticed 3/4 of the gas in the tank was gone.

I didn't use it the rest of the season.

With a new season approaching decided to take another look while it is still warm outside.

I took the breather apart and soaked the part with the valve in cleaner.

With a little gas in the tank fired it up. It spewed gas again. Fired it up a second time a few days later. Did some short loops in the driveway with the auger engaged. Some drips from the tube or the surface under the tube was moist (but not dripping) from gas. Engine was running/idling fine. With no snow was not running under load. But I moved the linkage to increase the RPMs for a short time. Did not see any gas increase from the breather tube versus idle. I have not tried with a full tank of gas.

I only have used non-oxy gas.

In all my searches the only problem I found with the breather was oil leaking out.

Carburetor was replaced about 8 years ago after two rebuilds did not fix a drip from the air intake. So it is not original.

Any suggestions on what to look for before I attempt cleaning and a rebuild? The Tecumseh manuals only mention oil from the breather.

I am afraid it will leak once it gets cold again. But the snowblower is stored in a heated garage (40).
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post #2 of 7 Old 10-08-2016, 01:14 AM
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before you do anything else, check your oil...check the level, viscosity and smell the dipstick.

My guess is that fuel is filling your crankcase due to a carb needle not closing (often a stuck and/or flooded float or a worn needle/seat).


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post #3 of 7 Old 10-15-2016, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
before you do anything else, check your oil...check the level, viscosity and smell the dipstick.

My guess is that fuel is filling your crankcase due to a carb needle not closing (often a stuck and/or flooded float or a worn needle/seat).
I smelled gas in the oil, so I drained it.

A stuck float might be it, the carburetor hasn't had enough uses since it was installed for the needle/seat to be worn already. (But I am not a small engine person)

I will see if I can check the float without taking everything apart. Otherwise I might start simply by running some Sea Foam through the carburetor to clean things.

Last edited by tachmn; 10-15-2016 at 11:35 PM. Reason: Posted before I was done.
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-16-2016, 09:12 AM
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A Repop Adjustable Carb will solve the problem Quick and Easy for short Money. Plenty on the Evil Site.
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-16-2016, 10:00 AM
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Yeah, sadly enough the new carbs are almost cheaper than the rebuild kits. then you know you have a good one. If you don't mind tackling the old one pull it off, soak in carb cleaner and be sure to clean every little orifice with a fine wire. Youtube has plenty of good how to vids on it....... replace the needle and seat and the rubbber components and give it go. I would install a fuel shut off vavle and be sure you use it in either case...... $5 well spent. Put a sticker on it to remind yourself to shut it off....... I do that on all mine. It becomes a habit after awhile




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post #6 of 7 Old 11-05-2016, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, sadly enough the new carbs are almost cheaper than the rebuild kits. then you know you have a good one. If you don't mind tackling the old one pull it off, soak in carb cleaner and be sure to clean every little orifice with a fine wire. Youtube has plenty of good how to vids on it....... replace the needle and seat and the rubbber components and give it go. I would install a fuel shut off vavle and be sure you use it in either case...... $5 well spent. Put a sticker on it to remind yourself to shut it off....... I do that on all mine. It becomes a habit after awhile
I had a rebuild kit on hand, so I gave the carb a dunk. Pulling the smaller welch plug and running a wire through the holes (no clogs). I just replaced the needle valve seat. Everything else looked OK.

After putting things back together, fired it up. Did a few loops to the end of the driveway and back with the auger engaged, about a hundred feet one way. Ran fine, nothing coming out of the breather. So far so good. But I will have to wait until it gets cold to be sure. When the engine is under a heavier load.

When I "inherited" the snowblower from my Dad (they moved into a condo), one of the first things I did was replace the fuel line and shutoff valve. The valve was a screw type and wouldn't budge. The replacement is a 90 degree ball type. Usual modus operandi when I am done is turn off the gas and let the snowblower stall instead of shutting if off.

I am not familiar with this Evil Site for carburetors. The Oracle of Google did not enlighten me.

(One thing that is confusing for me. With all the gas flooding the cylinder, spraying out of the breather and getting into the oil, why wasn't it running like it was flooded or something? The only way I noticed something was wrong was the gas coming out of the breather.)
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-06-2016, 08:15 AM
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Evil Site= Ebay
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