Craftsman 536.882700 4166 10HP 32 Driftbreaker - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Craftsman 536.882700 4166 10HP 32 Driftbreaker

I just picked up an old Craftsman Driftbreaker 10HP 32"
I bought it just because I thought I might use the engine and the electric starter.
This one is a single shaft... I need a twin shaft right now.. but will be able to use it one day.

Craftsman 536.882700 Code 4166
Tecumseh Engine HM100-159095J should be Craftsman 143 746072 SER ?130D

Craftsman to Tecumseh Info Here: http://www.mytractorforum.com/44-sma...-tecumseh.html
Snowblower Parts Here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...7/1507200.html
Craftsman Engine Parts Here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...Term=143746072
Jacks Engine Parts Here: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja.../hm100-159095j
HM100 Manual Here: http://www.2cpdonline.com/scan_pdf/HM100.PDF

Here are a couple of photos. More will be added to this album tomorrow.
Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3E72ORdvok3uNKxR2

I found a nice rebuild thread from HCBPH and borrowed a couple of photos from there.
Rebuild Thread: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/rest...-t4346714.html

It's late and I'm tired so I haven't begun to look at the machine yet.

Main problem so far:

The previous owner snapped the two top front-facing bolt holes on the transmission soon after he got it. (see photo album).
He then change out the transmission and immediately snapped the same two bolt holes on his second transmission after just 2 or 3 uses.

So I have a couple of questions

1) What are the other four bolt holes used for on the same face as the two broken holes? (see annotated photo).
Do I have a mounting plate missing in this machine?
I can't see any extra plates in HCBPH's pictures. I also cannot see anything on the Sear's diagrams.

2) If those holes are not actually used for anything...
Do you have any thoughts why he went through two aluminum transmissions in rapid succession?
What should I be looking to fix to prevent the same thing happening a third time?
I did a speed read of a couple of threads and saw mention of a couple of bolts that can work loose.

3) This machine looks good enough to repair if I can find a way to "fix" those broken bolt holes.
One possibility is to square off the broken mounts and try to put a spacer on them to build them back up to the correct length... maybe add lots of JB Weld to hold the spacer?
Alternatively, I would need to find a welder who knows how to work with aluminum. I have both transmissions (with broken holes) to play with.
I'm even thinking about possibly having an extra mounting plate added so that I can use those 4 extra holes and get more strength for the transmission.
Does this sound reasonable and/or necessary?

Aluminum Brazing versus Welding: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ing-vs-welding

Thanks

Last edited by unknown1; 09-13-2017 at 11:31 AM.
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post #2 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 08:46 AM
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I'd Pull the motor and Find an Ariens or Toro to Drop it on. Parts Might be a Hassle.
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post #3 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 10:25 AM
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I do

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post #4 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 12:25 PM
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My guess would be the other holes are for different applications. Maybe a small rider ??
I think you should try to save it. Weak point is the shaft bushings that are plastic and almost impossible to find. Replacing mine with bearings like HCBPH did. My trans was also busted but luckily the parts were still in there and at some point I'll have them welded back onto the transmission. I haven't worked on it for some time but I wanted to add something to try and use a couple of the lower mounts to help brace the transmission to the body so it would be less likely to break again.
I also drilled the gear cluster to accept a grease zerk so it could be greased easily. I had a Jacobsen that the previous owner let that gear eat the shaft away.
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	1032 Craftsman Drift Breaker gear cluster.jpg
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Name:	111213 536.918900  auger, impeller and drift breaker.jpg
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Name:	111213 536.918900  from the front.jpg
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post #5 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
My guess would be the other holes are for different applications. Maybe a small rider ??
I think you should try to save it. Weak point is the shaft bushings that are plastic and almost impossible to find. Replacing mine with bearings like HCBPH did. My trans was also busted but luckily the parts were still in there and at some point I'll have them welded back onto the transmission. I haven't worked on it for some time but I wanted to add something to try and use a couple of the lower mounts to help brace the transmission to the body so it would be less likely to break again.
I also drilled the gear cluster to accept a grease zerk so it could be greased easily. I had a Jacobsen that the previous owner let that gear eat the shaft away.
Thanks for the info. It would be nice to save it if possible.

I'll take a look at the shaft bearings to see if that was putting things out of alignment or rattling around.
Unfortunately this machine does not have the belly plate on it so the chunks of aluminum are long gone.
It's hard to imagine that the internals of both transmissions are messed up... it's possible... but the bearings and alignment sound more likely.

I've no idea if it's easy or even possible to rebuild those mounts back up to the correct height.. It's beyond my capability but I'll take one round to the local welders and see what they think.
If I manage to get a transmission repaired or find a third transmission, I think that adding an extra plate to make use of those 4 extra holes would help give more strength.

I don't have much to lose at this point... I was only going for the engine and the starter motor in the first place.

Last edited by unknown1; 09-14-2017 at 02:35 PM.
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post #6 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 02:17 PM
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post #7 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well... there's virtually zero rust on this machine. It's hardly been used.
Maybe because they could never get the transmissions to survive ;-)

Added lots more photos to the album:https://photos.app.goo.gl/3E72ORdvok3uNKxR2

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post #8 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 04:30 PM
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It could be the bearing letting the gears get jammed with the chain that fractures the trans mounts. Both the drive axle and auger axle ride on plastic bushings so IMHO both should be replaced if you're going to rebuild one of these.

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post #9 of 38 Old 09-13-2017, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
It could be the bearing letting the gears get jammed with the chain that fractures the trans mounts. Both the drive axle and auger axle ride on plastic bushings so IMHO both should be replaced if you're going to rebuild one of these.
Interesting to hear you say that..
One of the chains is currently either snapped or off its sprocket and wedged between the sprocket and the metal body.
Dismantling later today.

Yes replacing the plastic bearings are probably a must do for the long term.

EDIT: Potential good news on the chunks of aluminum... the pieces are still in there for the current transmission so that might help re-weld.
From what I've read, aluminum welding or brazing is a fine art. A balance between too much heat and too little due to conduction away from the join.

Last edited by unknown1; 09-14-2017 at 02:36 PM.
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post #10 of 38 Old 09-14-2017, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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I think I know why the 2 transmissions were broken... at least the second of the two.

There is a missing spacer on the drive shaft between the drive sprocket and the left wheel bearing.
This allows about 1/2 inch of lateral movement of the shaft which takes the sprocket and the chain along for the ride.
The chain then slams into a protruding bolt from the handlebars.
This jams the chain which breaks the aluminum transmission bolt mounting holes
The chain also unhooks from the sprockets and chews the plastic wheel bearing as it becomes trapped.

If that spacer was missing earlier, it would explain why the first transmission broke too.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rLn7GitJENDAgsVc2

I am hoping the insides of the transmissions are OK. I can spin the pulley and see the transmission output sprocket spin... no grinding...so at least one gear is working.
First I need to see if I can get someone to weld the broken aluminum transmission bolt holes and re-tap them to make it possible to remount the transmission.
No point switching bearings until I know the transmission can be saved.
If I then replace the bearings and get the necessary spacers to avoid any lateral motion the problem should not reoccur.

A few shim washers to make the chains align nicely and to tighten up the chains will help (see HCBPH thread for that).
While I am at it, I may as well add something like the plastic conduits that HCBPH added between the wheels and the bearings to add further resistance to lateral movement.

Fingers crossed on the welding.. at a price that makes sense.

Last edited by unknown1; 09-14-2017 at 01:10 PM.
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