Craftsman Drift Breaker 536.882702 5289 Restoration 10 hp 32" 2nd Generation - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 176 Old 12-25-2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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I have been studying your posts of this unit and i was hoping you would ad your $.02. I wish I could have found one in better condition and not as rusty.
I am going to try your some of your methods for separating the Rakes.
I was wondering why the last number is a 2. This one has a 110 electric starter. Could the last digit be the year it was made. Maybe 1982? Does anyone know how they came up with the model numbers?
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post #12 of 176 Old 12-25-2017, 01:09 PM
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Take a good look at the before picture of the one I did, yours looks to be in a whole lot better condition than mine was. I had dents in the auger housing I took out, a considerable amount of surface rust, damaged sprockets, a motor whose carb and internals were rusted beyond belief. Thing was with some serious planning for it to come together. I even had to pull the commutator out of the engine so there was that retiming too. Needless to say it all came together, not quick but worked very well by the time I got done. Even split the auger/drive controls from a single to dual controls.

That's why I offered the doc, hopefully there's a lot of good stuff that might be helpful.
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post #13 of 176 Old 12-25-2017, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sock-feet View Post
I was wondering why the last number is a 2. This one has a 110 electric starter. Could the last digit be the year it was made. Maybe 1982? Does anyone know how they came up with the model numbers?
Year mfg - nope. I happened to find a couple of manuals on the same base model machine, plus having bought a couple like that too. 2d digit was 2 if they had an electric starter on them. Easy to add an electric starter so it wasn't a big deal if you can find one at an affordable price.

Have not come up anything logical on if there's some hidden pattern to model numbers. Only thing is the first 3 digits (536) designates it was made by Murray, rest of it - who knows. There are large frame blowers with lower and with higher model numbers than the 4-5 hp small frame ones.
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post #14 of 176 Old 12-25-2017, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Take a good look at the before picture of the one I did, yours looks to be in a whole lot better condition than mine was. I had dents in the auger housing I took out, a considerable amount of surface rust, damaged sprockets, a motor whose carb and internals were rusted beyond belief. Thing was with some serious planning for it to come together. I even had to pull the commutator out of the engine so there was that retiming too. Needless to say it all came together, not quick but worked very well by the time I got done. Even split the auger/drive controls from a single to dual controls.

That's why I offered the doc, hopefully there's a lot of good stuff that might be helpful.
Is the doc on line or could you email it. I would love to see it all. I really don't think that I am going to get the auger apart without ruining seals. I wish the shaft was hollow all of the way. I wouldn't even mind talking on the phone. I might want to split the drive too. This certainly will take hours upon hours .
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post #15 of 176 Old 12-26-2017, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sock-feet View Post
Is the doc on line or could you email it. I would love to see it all. I really don't think that I am going to get the auger apart without ruining seals. I wish the shaft was hollow all of the way. I wouldn't even mind talking on the phone. I might want to split the drive too. This certainly will take hours upon hours .
Don't worry about the seals, they are cheap available parts. You just press them in from the outside, the one on the impeller shaft has to be pressed in after the 2 halves are bolted back together. Biggest issue you will encounter in the auger case is aligning the wedge cutout on the bushings correctly in the case. You have a possible 4 bushings to deal with and 3 seals along with the gasket between the 2 halves of the case. It's not rocket science, just take it slow and easy and you'll get through it.

The auger doc is on a small frame blower while yours is a large frame, but I don't remember if that has a 1" or 3/4" shaft. Just make sure you get the right size bushings and seals for yours.

Paul

Last edited by HCBPH; 12-26-2017 at 06:07 AM.
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post #16 of 176 Old 12-26-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered these weld on sprockets and that should work for the 3rd stage auger:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...-1-1979-14.axd
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post #17 of 176 Old 12-26-2017, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered these weld on sprockets and that should work for the 3rd stage auger:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...-1-1979-14.axd
I and switching to #40 chain and sprockets and I am using Stainless steel roller chain.
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post #18 of 176 Old 12-26-2017, 01:22 PM
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Great project. Can't wait to see the final result.
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post #19 of 176 Old 12-27-2017, 09:37 AM
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Craig


Sent you a copy of the manual in pdf format today.
Don't lose faith, that machine is a beast when it's done, there are few that can keep up with it and the Tecumseh transmission is just gravy on it.


Paul
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post #20 of 176 Old 12-27-2017, 08:41 PM
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You stated earlier about looking for a 10 HP Driftbreaker for a friend. While this is not a 10 HP, there is none-the-less an 8 HP Driftbreaker up in Worcester for $50 if you are interested - the neighborhood where it is located is fine. It's been sitting on Craigslist forever so you probably can get it for $30....

Link: https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd...391664950.html

There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....

Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/...434012528.html
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