Craftsman Drift Breaker 536.882702 5289 Restoration 10 hp 32" 2nd Generation - Page 3 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #21 of 176 Old 12-27-2017, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by toroused View Post
There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....

Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/...434012528.html
I could be wrong but that looks to be at most a 7hp... (not a medium-frame block).



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post #22 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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The new bearings are installed on the Auger and the Auger driveshaft. The flange bearings for the axle that I bought from ebay are self aligning. I looked at the bearing and it wasn't true to the flange and messaged the place where I bought them-this is their reply:

"Hello sock-feet!
This sounds like you are having an issue with our self alignment feature.
If the bearing is crooked for example when you lay it on a flat table, it is not flat. Please don't worry. This is our self-alignment feature. These bearing are meant to have some play in them. When you mount them, just use the shaft to rotate the bearing into proper position, or if it is not out of alignment by much, the bearing will correct their own alignment once they begin to rotate. Because if the bearings were not aligned properly and spinning at high RPMs then sure disaster would happen. So our self-alignment feature is a way to prevent this from happening.
Thanks!"

I certainly won't give them feedback on the bearings until I use them for sure. I will post if they are garbage when I get them bolted in.

I also pressed out the bushings in the dual sprocket assy and drilled and tapped a Zerk fitting for future greasing. The small sprocket on the assy looked like it started to get chewed up by the chain because of the slop in the bushings. I think it should be fine once I get the new Bushings in.

Additional parts ordered:

Oilite Bronze bushings (2) 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD 1" long for dual sprocket assy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162542600934

#40 SS roller chain
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291988750010

Carb rebuild Kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/331839218864

Weld on #40 14 teeth sprockets
40V14B 40 Pitch 14 Tooth Sprocket | Weld-On Sprockets | Sprockets | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com

I went a little nuts and bought the SS auger driveshaft Bearing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/360798383615
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post #23 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by toroused View Post
You stated earlier about looking for a 10 HP Driftbreaker for a friend. While this is not a 10 HP, there is none-the-less an 8 HP Driftbreaker up in Worcester for $50 if you are interested - the neighborhood where it is located is fine. It's been sitting on Craigslist forever so you probably can get it for $30....

Link: https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd...391664950.html

There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....

Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/...434012528.html
Thanks for the leads. I told a friend of mine about what I am doing and he is giving me a 10hp 32 track drive. I am not sure if any of the parts are interchangeable. We will see.
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post #24 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 02:06 PM
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Craig


I don't think you're going to be using many parts if any from that track unit on yours. From what I can tell it looks to be a friction disc drive unit (instead of the transmission unit you have) and I believe that one has a short auger shaft with stubs in the ends of the auger rakes to it into the bushings on the end of the housing. Free is free. If the motor is good or the tracks are solid, that's worth something at a minimum. You may want to read the thread again on converting to flange bearings, the part on the auger. I had to spin the bearings in the mount around so the set screw was on the inside of the auger assembly to get a good bite on the auger shaft. I could not use the snap rings on the end of the shaft, the shaft end was hidden in the bearing. Without the bearing spin in the mount, the setscrew on the bearings was beyond the end of the auger shaft on mine. From those 2 earlier machines noted, parts from them would likely fit yours. In fact the 2 stage auger housing is similar (if not identical) to the one I swapped onto the Searsasaurus in place of the 32" 3 stage that came on it. Other than rebuilding/replacing the bushings with bearings, some straightening and getting the auger rakes off the shaft, I painted it and bolted it onto the tractor unit unmodified. You can usually find engineless parts machines like the 2d one for around free-$50 around here when available.


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post #25 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HCBPH View Post
Craig


I don't think you're going to be using many parts if any from that track unit on yours. From what I can tell it looks to be a friction disc drive unit (instead of the transmission unit you have) and I believe that one has a short auger shaft with stubs in the ends of the auger rakes to it into the bushings on the end of the housing. Free is free. If the motor is good or the tracks are solid, that's worth something at a minimum. You may want to read the thread again on converting to flange bearings, the part on the auger. I had to spin the bearings in the mount around so the set screw was on the inside of the auger assembly to get a good bite on the auger shaft. I could not use the snap rings on the end of the shaft, the shaft end was hidden in the bearing. Without the bearing spin in the mount, the setscrew on the bearings was beyond the end of the auger shaft on mine. From those 2 earlier machines noted, parts from them would likely fit yours. In fact the 2 stage auger housing is similar (if not identical) to the one I swapped onto the Searsasaurus in place of the 32" 3 stage that came on it. Other than rebuilding/replacing the bushings with bearings, some straightening and getting the auger rakes off the shaft, I painted it and bolted it onto the tractor unit unmodified. You can usually find engineless parts machines like the 2d one for around free-$50 around here when available.


Paul
I must pay more attn to details when reading and pay homage to the god of Drift Breakers. I went back to your sticky thread and now understand. I will be spinning the bearing around in the flange. Good call on that!!!!!
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post #26 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
I could be wrong but that looks to be at most a 7hp... (not a medium-frame block).

7HP Has a flat carb box, the angled ones start on the 8hp and up. Here is a blower with a 7hp, OH It looked different in the pic but yes you are right that Is a 7hp, looked angled down on first glance.

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post #27 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 04:48 PM
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7HP Has a flat carb box, the angled ones start on the 8hp and up. Here is a blower with a 7hp, OH It looked different in the pic but yes you are right that Is a 7hp, looked angled down on first glance.
Yep, the elevated fuel-tank is another clue. Medium frame tec engines (i.e.HM80), the fuel tank is nearly flush with the top of the head.


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post #28 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well waiting for parts is a bummer. I need the bushings for the Dual sprocket assy to put it back together.

I took some time to put the axle bearings in. I mocked it up so I could use washers for the spacing and sprocket alignment. I used 1/2 washers and drilled them to 3/4" with my drill pres. I also put a couple of washers on the counter shaft bolts to take out the play.

Paul,

I took a look at the flange bearings and found out they are not like a typical bearing. The outer race OD is like sphere and swivels in the flange so I can't spin the bearing around.


After looking at the bearing and shaft, i think that the auger shaft is out far enough to be over the center of the bearing. I made some washers to space it out too. If I have to, I will shave off the bottom of the flange bearing to bring it in more.

I'm never happy unless I have some sort of project in the garage.

I'm not sure how many pics I can post, but I will post as much as possible.
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post #29 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCBPH View Post
Craig


I don't think you're going to be using many parts if any from that track unit on yours. From what I can tell it looks to be a friction disc drive unit (instead of the transmission unit you have) and I believe that one has a short auger shaft with stubs in the ends of the auger rakes to it into the bushings on the end of the housing. Free is free. If the motor is good or the tracks are solid, that's worth something at a minimum. You may want to read the thread again on converting to flange bearings, the part on the auger. I had to spin the bearings in the mount around so the set screw was on the inside of the auger assembly to get a good bite on the auger shaft. I could not use the snap rings on the end of the shaft, the shaft end was hidden in the bearing. Without the bearing spin in the mount, the setscrew on the bearings was beyond the end of the auger shaft on mine. From those 2 earlier machines noted, parts from them would likely fit yours. In fact the 2 stage auger housing is similar (if not identical) to the one I swapped onto the Searsasaurus in place of the 32" 3 stage that came on it. Other than rebuilding/replacing the bushings with bearings, some straightening and getting the auger rakes off the shaft, I painted it and bolted it onto the tractor unit unmodified. You can usually find engineless parts machines like the 2d one for around free-$50 around here when available.


Paul
I might take a look at the track machine and see if it is salvageable. Maybe convert to tires and give it to my friend.
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post #30 of 176 Old 12-28-2017, 07:56 PM
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I just pulled the tracks off of a 1032 Track machine and put Noma wheels and tires on it...easy peasy...except the part of pulling the frozen tracks off......
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