Craftsman Drift Breaker 536.882702 5289 Restoration 10 hp 32" 2nd Generation - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 174 Old 12-24-2017, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Craftsman Drift Breaker 536.882702 5289 Restoration 10 hp 32" 2nd Generation

As promised here is the restoration of my Drift Breaker 536.882702. Unfortunately this one is a little on the rusty side.

I bought this guy from a small engine repair person just east of Pittsburgh Penn and had it shipped by Fastenal to Danbury, Ct. I have deconstructed it and have ordered all parts that I think I will need. The plan is to replace all known bad parts and try it out-then tear it all apart and paint it.

Parts ordered:
Flange bearing 3/4 inch for the axle UCF 204-12 Ebay
Flange bearing 1 inch for the auger SARFT205-16 1" Ebay
B&S Cable for the Chute 78059MA
1630RS Bearing for the auger drive shaft.
2 sprockets Martin brand 41BS14 1 Ebay for the 3rd stage drive chain. Mine are shot and I cut the welds and removed them from the auger and top drift breaker.
NOS Piston rings 34866A
Head gasket
Engine side cover gasket

I have inspected the Transmission mounts and they look great and are tight.

I the auger tines are rusted to the front gear case shafts and I can't get them apart. I don't want to heat them because I don't want to burn the seals in the gear case. I have penetrating oil on them now. Any recommendations for getting them apart is welcome.

The Bearing for the Auger drive shaft had seized and screwed up the drive shaft which I will have to Mig weld and file down back to 3/4"
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post #2 of 174 Old 12-24-2017, 11:15 AM
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If those augers are like my Sears/Murray, the shafts on the gearbox, they are stubs about 4 or 5" long. You can tap them all around as much as you can with a small hammer enough to slightly expand them a bit to loosen them enough to start working them off, along with the penetrating oil or that other concoction, transmission fluid and I think acetone. That might help.
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post #3 of 174 Old 12-24-2017, 11:15 AM
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Welcome sockfeet!

Unfortunately I'm afraid you're going to need alot of heat on those auger rakes...and patience.

I've had luck going back-and-forth using heat/penetrant (I like acetone + ATF) and a homemade electrolysis tank.

You'll then need to decide if you're going to push (shot press) or pull (puller) on the auger shafts...maybe both.

It looks like someone has already taken a crack at trying to remove them:


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post #4 of 174 Old 12-24-2017, 11:21 AM
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Wow...that is an ambitious project!..If it were me....I'd paint while I was restoring and assemble it only once.......come on...have some self confidence!
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post #5 of 174 Old 12-24-2017, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid View Post
If those augers are like my Sears/Murray, the shafts on the gearbox, they are stubs about 4 or 5" long. You can tap them all around as much as you can with a small hammer enough to slightly expand them a bit to loosen them enough to start working them off, along with the penetrating oil or that other concoction, transmission fluid and I think acetone. That might help.
Sid
Good call Sid! That is indeed a stub-axle. I guess the good news is that there's less axle inside of the rake.


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post #6 of 174 Old 12-24-2017, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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I get that theory of restoring but I want to feel it out and see if the engine is even worth bothering with. If the engine is even slightly suspect, I am going to put a new one on. The Sprockets are going to be the challenge as well as the auger tines.

I am on the hunt for another 10 Hp 32" drift breaker for a friend as well. Please let me know if you see any more of these out there. I don't have any problem shipping them distances. The new snow blowers are such garbage, I don't care if this takes me 100 hours and $1000 to restore.
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post #7 of 174 Old 12-25-2017, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
Welcome sockfeet!

Unfortunately I'm afraid you're going to need alot of heat on those auger rakes...and patience.

I've had luck going back-and-forth using heat/penetrant (I like acetone + ATF) and a homemade electrolysis tank.

You'll then need to decide if you're going to push (shot press) or pull (puller) on the auger shafts...maybe both.

It looks like someone has already taken a crack at trying to remove them:
There was a bolt in where the shear pin would go and it broke when I tried to get it out. I have since drilled it out. I have used the map gas to heat up the auger and sprayed oil every where.
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post #8 of 174 Old 12-25-2017, 07:00 AM
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I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.

The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.

I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested.

I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).
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Last edited by HCBPH; 12-25-2017 at 08:02 AM.
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post #9 of 174 Old 12-25-2017, 07:15 AM
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Found some pictures of a auger assembly where the rakes were rusted on solid. Like I said I typically use penetrant, heat & pressure to get them off. You have to be careful using the one tool I made to help shock them loose. Here's a brief set of pictures that show some of the various steps I use. Which are used depends on the conditions encountered so there's more than used in every situation.
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post #10 of 174 Old 12-25-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCBPH View Post
I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.

The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.

I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested.

I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).

I have been studying your posts of this unit and i was hoping you would ad your $.02. I wish I could have found one in better condition and not as rusty.
I am going to try your some of your methods for separating the Rakes.
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