I decided to post a separate thread for this machine. This is going to be down and dirty fixer and fliper.

Like previous people stated, the sprockets on the axel shaft is a total disaster to get off. I used a puller and two 1/4 inch bolts. The only way to get them off with the resources I have was to slit them with a cut off wheel and spread with a small chisel. I heated up the track wheels with MAP gas and pounded the axles out on the vise.

I don't want to give up my wheels from my spare drift breaker. so I think I am going to clean up the track drive up and reuse it. Thoughts? I haven't found any other used wheels and tires locally.

I did get it running with a 10 min quick carb clean. It seemed to run ok but I didn't put a load on it.

Here are some pics.

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This is what it looked like in the field.

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Why were you taking all the tracks off in the first place? How are you going to fix the sprockets? How much damage did you do to the other track drive components when you disassembled it? I think changing it to wheels and tires will be much quicker and cheaper.

Unless the complete track system was in good shape, I would never buy one for a flip. Too many extra parts to have troubles with.

If you plan to keep those tracks, one thing to check out is the lack of lubrication in crucial spots. I've seen and drilled a couple of the sprockets on one to add grease zerks. I'm told some have gone to plastic parts but they still stuck/rusted on. The time I looked for replacement tracks, I could not find any parts (and that was years ago) so unless they're in very good condition I'd wait till you can find some wheels.

PS that doesn't look any worse than the gray one I rebuilt the other year. They are very solid.

I got all of the tracks apart, cleaned, Greased with marine grease and it all went together good. I don't plan on keeping this so the next person can put grease fittings in it. The shafts in the plastic wheels surprisingly came out fairly easy. The sprockets on the axle came off very hard even with a slit. I put the sprocket back on with the slit in it and tightened the bolt so it cant go anywhere. If I were keeping it, I would mig weld the sprocket where the slit is. It should last for years as is.

I had to put good used roller chain in the track assy and the drive chain to the axel .

I separated the auger housing and pulled the bearing-it is trashed. It also made a wear mark in the auger shaft. I am going to spot weld dots on the shaft like my other one and file down to 7/8" The bearing is wicked expensive. It is 7/8" bore 2" Od and 9/16 thick. I went on sears and they want over $70.00

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...Name=CRAFTSMAN

This is a keyed bearing with a flange.

My plan is to buy a 1640-2RS off ebay for under $7.00 without a keyed slot and press it into the steel flange I have from the old bearing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1640RS-1640...EAAOSwNSxU045L

I am going to cut the key down and just have the bearing ride on the shaft as a slip fit.

Everything else seems to be pretty good. A good wire wheeling, rust primer, and some Rustoleum and she will be ready for sale. I think that you need to disassemble the tracks every couple of years and completely lube everything IMO.

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After tearing mine apart, I'm not a fan of the track system Murrays of that time.....I've got some parts that didn't get destroyed if some one needs them. I like the wheels on it now better....I'd keep it if I wasn't overflowing with blowers.

That bearing is something I've not seen before. I did a quick online check, found it listed from $40-$70 ea and because I don't know the real name of the bearing couldn't do a search for the bearing only.

On the shaft it could be spray welded or turned down and a sleeve JBWelded onto it to build it back up. I've seen the results of both and they seem to work.

Yes. Tracks aren't my first choice either. To answer everyone's question, yes the tractor part rolls forward and backward with ease when they are all greased and cleaned. Even though this is blower is a Murray, it is still built like a tank.

I decided to take the tractor part of the blower out for a cruise. After lubing all of the pivot points, bearings, and chains, I had to clean off the friction disk and rubber drive wheel. Surprising the 10 minute carb clean worked great. It took about 2 minutes of messing with the high speed jet. Idles and runs up well. It is a goof driving it with out the blower on the front of it.

I think I kinda like the track idea. I think that it is a part of yearly maintenance of oiling and greasing everything in this blower. If I were to keep it, I would use stainless roller chain in the track system. It rolls very easy.

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I might take you up on those track parts. The idler wheel and the Plastic drive wheel on one side is slightly warped.