Stop-Wire issue - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-11-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Stop-Wire issue

Hallo! First time and happy to be here. I hope someone can advise me with an irritating within my Craftsman Snow-Blower Mod. 254880 (MY 2010) with B&S engine 21M314-1475-E1. Any hint appreciated … hard to believe but Bavaria has fallen in snow, so I hope for my blower.

The Problem: Engine will not start because the spark-plug doesn't fire. The plug itself is o.k.. So I assume a fault in the stop-engine-wiring: The switch operated by the small red plastic-key is o.k., the wire and its connection to ground either. But the behaviour of the second wire from the switch, the real Stop-Wire, appears absolutely strange: I measure a connection to ground even if the plastic-key is plugged in, where I expect an „open circuit“. The Stop-Wire itself runs below engine shrouds to the Magnetron-Armature. Unfortunately my B & S repair-manual cannot help.

Can you tell me where this wire is electrically connected within the Magnetron-system? Perhaps "something" is broken or corroded so connecting the said wire electrically to ground. The blower had a standstill of about two years in a carport.

Thank you very much. Let me know, perhaps I can help YOU! I like DIY and generally combustion engines (won't cry this too loud considering Germany's turn to E-Mobility ;-((( )

Hajo
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-11-2019, 11:57 AM
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The stop wire is attached to the coil to ground it.....try unplugging at the coil. I've heard ( not from my own experience) that having the spark plug disconnected while turning over on the newer engines will destroy the coil, so if the engine doesn't spark with the coil unplugged , maybe swap out the coil.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-11-2019, 07:22 PM
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I'd remove the wire first at the switch, if that doesn't work then at the throttle, that's where it generally goes?

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-11-2019, 07:29 PM
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on a Honda, you can disconnect the ground wire and it will fire if the stop/kill switch is the issue.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-11-2019, 08:16 PM
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Are you sure that it has not sheared a flywheel key. Have you pulled the recoil housing off? if so was there any sign of rodent activity or debris left from them. also look at the condition of the coil armature gap to flywheel, for debris, rust etc.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-11-2019, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hajo View Post

The switch operated by the small red plastic-key is o.k., the wire and its connection to ground either. But the behaviour of the second wire from the switch, the real Stop-Wire, appears absolutely strange: I measure a connection to ground even if the plastic-key is plugged in, where I expect an „open circuit“. The Stop-Wire itself runs below engine shrouds to the Magnetron-Armature. Unfortunately my B & S repair-manual cannot help.

Can you tell me where this wire is electrically connected within the Magnetron-system? Perhaps "something" is broken or corroded so connecting the said wire electrically to ground. The blower had a standstill of about two years in a carport.

Thank you very much. Let me know, perhaps I can help YOU! I like DIY and generally combustion engines (won't cry this too loud considering Germany's turn to E-Mobility ;-((( )

Hajo
If the wire from the coil to the switch is grounded, you need to investigate that problem and repair that short circuit to ground.

You can look for pinched wire or worn insulation that allows the inner conductor to touch metal.

I think you are going to have to remove the recoil starter assemble and the flywheel to really see whats going wrong. Leaving equipment outdoors for two years can lead to problems.

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-12-2019, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much! You now encouraged me to disassemble the work environment of the coil. Give me a couple of days to look what's the matter. I'll be here again to report on my "adventure".
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-12-2019, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lottstodo View Post
Are you sure that it has not sheared a flywheel key..
unlike lawn mowers, it is very rare if at all, to find a snowblower with a sheared crankshaft flywheel key,

snow blower keys are steel, ver soft cast of a older lawn mower that are made to shear with the blade hits something solid. many newer mowers many now have soft alloy blade adapters between shorter crank shafts, that act just like the older shear keys. which than also use steel flywheel keys

Last edited by 132619; 01-20-2019 at 04:42 AM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-12-2019, 12:47 PM
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Ah yes that is true, however a sheared key was the exact reason that 2 years ago I pick up a Ariens for $30.00 that the dealer told the owner that the coil and or ignition was bad and at dealer prices would well be over $400. to fix. So after checking everything out and $2.00 later ran perfect and netted $450. profit.

And again just this week another blower I got for free had a key sheared when the machine picked up a part of a plow blade, ( no shear pins on auger) owner replaced that one , however auger drive was destroyed .

There have been many more that I have worked on that at some point in time a aluminum key/ and or soft key had been installed as the owner did not know or check the specs, and purchased off shelf at big box or had it laying in junk drawer.

The point is its easy to check and yes they can shear.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-12-2019, 06:35 PM
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If you are in far enough to check for a damaged coil grounding wire, or a bad coil, and the fly wheel is off anyways... it couldn't hurt to take a look if the key is sheared oe bent like it wants to shear, and at every other possible thing that could be cleaned, polished, broken, adjusted, fixed, while your at it. If you don't check, you might be taking it all apart a second time.

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2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp
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