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post #1 of 27 Old 01-12-2020, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Question Battery Light Options

Hey everyone, new guy here but not to forums in general.

I have a 30 inch craftsman professional series 247.88830

The halogen bulb is pitiful. Keeps burning out, the bulb isnít loose and I notice the plastic lense started to melt a little on the top. Plus the chute blocks most the light.

I have done some searching around and I am not totally sure what I want to do. I read the threads about converting ac to dc to use led lights. The end result looks awesome. But I am not totally sure I wanna mess with wiring. The converter looks easy, but I donít feel like messing with capacitors. Has anyone done a magnetic battery led flood light? Thinking of mounting it up front on the auger shield.

I have been eyeing this light. It doesnít list the lumens though.





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post #2 of 27 Old 01-12-2020, 09:56 PM
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I don't blame you at all for not wanting to mess with adding a capacitor. And I don't know why others think it is needed. My guess.....without actually viewing the voltage with an oscilloscope both with and without a capacitor is that a cap will make little difference in the viewed waveforms WHILE a load is connected.

There is one possible shortcoming using rectified power to energize leds. That is the peak rectified voltage may cause shorter LED life.
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post #3 of 27 Old 01-13-2020, 06:12 PM
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This works great on my blower. Nice, bright, and portable. See if you can still find one.
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-13-2020, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlowerMods1 View Post
This works great on my blower. Nice, bright, and portable. See if you can still find one.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0Myzjr4Ndig
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Is it magnetic?????

500 or 1000 lumens??? They offer both.

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Cool light!!!

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post #5 of 27 Old 01-13-2020, 07:11 PM
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to SBF raminator157

If you search on Amazon, Ebay, ... you'll find a lot of the newer stuff runs on ac. Might be listed as CAN bus compliant. They have their own converter built in. Just bypass your halogen bulb and you're good to go. I'd recommend going with a flood light but you can do a spot if you prefer.

Or instead of building a converter you can just get one for $13 off Amazon and you don't need to worry about the LED working on AC .



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post #6 of 27 Old 01-13-2020, 08:15 PM
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post #7 of 27 Old 01-14-2020, 12:46 AM
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the capacitors are not as bad to deal with as you think. they hook up positive and negative just like led lights. they are just used to smooth out the power going to the lights so you don't get a flicker. you can think of them like batteries. they charge up when getting power and discharge when they stop getting power for that fraction of a second as the flywheel spins around. i sometimes use them to to keep my stereo on for a few seconds after shutting the key off on my vehicle.

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post #8 of 27 Old 01-14-2020, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, I did not think to look for a LED light that auto converts it. I have started looking but haven't found much. A plug and play option would be awesome. Is their any other terms I should look for? I see some that say 12 & 24 volts DC. Nothing about AC. Do you know the highest wattage led light Ill be able to use?


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to SBF raminator157

If you search on Amazon, Ebay, ... you'll find a lot of the newer stuff runs on ac. Might be listed as CAN bus compliant. They have their own converter built in. Just bypass your halogen bulb and you're good to go. I'd recommend going with a flood light but you can do a spot if you prefer.

Or instead of building a converter you can just get one for $13 off Amazon and you don't need to worry about the LED working on AC . https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-C...motive&sr=1-25

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post #9 of 27 Old 01-14-2020, 01:57 PM
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As a starting point, you could look up the current halogen bulb, and see how many watts it draws. That should give you at least a point of reference for what you should be able to draw.

Or, if you could connect a multimeter between the alternator and the light (if it has a connector somewhere), you could measure the voltage, and current draw, to figure out your present power draw, if specs on the bulb weren't available.

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post #10 of 27 Old 01-14-2020, 02:28 PM
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When in doubt I default to 18 watt. Being that you have a 1141 bulb and they are rated at 18 watts that might be all you have available. Now a 1141 and a 1156 are the same except for amp draw/light output. A stock 1156 incandescent will put out more light but only if there is enough power to drive it. Since yours has the 1141 I'd stay away from the 1156 incandescent.
To me it doesn't look like a halogen. 18 watt is to my knowledge the smallest stator they use. If you post the numbers off the engine we might be able to look up to see what that engine actually has as it could be anywhere from 18 to 60 depending on how it was spec'd to be built for craftsman.

You other option rather than a whole new housing is replacing the bulb with an LED. Looking only at SuperBrightLEDs they have an 1156 that runs on 10~18 VAC, 10~30 VDC. You can run a 1156 LED because it has a lower current draw and would easily stay under the 18 watts the incandescent 1141 would draw.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ith-lens/4477/
The LED is a little longer than your present bulb so you'd want to make sure you have the room.

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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 01-14-2020 at 02:36 PM.
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