5.5 hp model# 247.883550- Valve/Timing Question - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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5.5 hp model# 247.883550- Valve/Timing Question

Hello,

So I tried putting a new carb on this model and still it has not started. I checked the spark on the engine block and saw a bright blue spark. The carb pulls gas up through the emulsion tube just fine when I prime it. I also have tried priming the chamber.

I looked down into the chamber and pulled the engine over, the valves seem to open when they should and shut when they should.

When I try to start it with the electric start, All I get is some sputtering and a little backfire out the exhaust, but it never fully starts.

Does anyone know what the valve clearance should be? What should I check next?
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 12:55 PM
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I think you may want to try by elimination process on this one.
From your post you have spark and you gave it some form of gas with a backfiring and sputter.
Your next move would be to verify if you have a partially flywheel sheared key. And next might be the valves, but without the engine model# if flat head it would be .004 int. .008 exh or if ohv .004 on both. This is according to a Tecumseh engine specs book. I know Grunt and or Shryp would have exact specs from their database.
Good Luck

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post #3 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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OK,

I just did a compression test, at 4-5 pulls and I get 60 psi. With the electric starter I get the same at 4-6 revolutions. I also tried putting a little oil into the chamber and the readings were the same after about 2 minutes of letting it sit.

Not sure if this is good enough, or what I should check next?
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hello,

What would a partially sheared flywheel key look like? The engine is LH195SP-67514, at least that is what is in the manual.
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post #5 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinsm2 View Post
Hello,

What would a partially sheared flywheel key look like? The engine is LH195SP-67514, at least that is what is in the manual.
Your numbers confirms it's a flat head, as for a sheared key when they are in its original form it is a half moon shape key in a slot.
A sheared one would look like if you would have teared it a bit. Sorry but this is the best I could come with.

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The 15 HP is a new Ducar engine sold
by Princess Auto in Canada.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 01:41 PM
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The top key is sheared... the bottom one is new
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-26-2014, 01:46 PM
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[QUOTE] About a month ago, someone took apart the crankcase to replace the crankcase seal and the seal on the auger side around the crankshaft. Perhaps they put the flywheel on wrong? I really do not know how to check for correct compression of for proper ignition timing.[QUOTE]

Was this someone a small engine mechanic? And did he run the engine after his altercations? I would have had his take first if you didn't start the engine since his work last performed.

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The 15 HP is a new Ducar engine sold
by Princess Auto in Canada.
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-28-2014, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ok,

So I removed the flywheel and I think I accidently broke the flywheel key. I used a piece of wood and a rubber mallet, hit the flywheel from behind 3 times and it came off. But, the flywheel key looked really worn down. Not sure if it was put in wrong and then got worn or what. Buying a new key.

Is there a certain way the flywheel needs to go back on? I want to make sure it lines up right.
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-28-2014, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinsm2 View Post
Ok,

So I removed the flywheel and I think I accidently broke the flywheel key. I used a piece of wood and a rubber mallet, hit the flywheel from behind 3 times and it came off. But, the flywheel key looked really worn down. Not sure if it was put in wrong and then got worn or what. Buying a new key.

Is there a certain way the flywheel needs to go back on? I want to make sure it lines up right.
accidents happen! That's how we learn.

Once you set the key in the crankshaft, align the flywheel's keyway with key and slide it on...pretty straightforward.

Get a strap wrench for the outer flywheel rim and torque the flywheel nut to specified value....no more, no less. If it's under-torqued, you risk shearing the flywheel key. Too much torque and you risk snapping the crank shaft.


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post #10 of 15 Old 12-28-2014, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you,

So if I put the key into the crankshaft and flywheel right, then I do not need to align the flywheel with anything else on the engine or anything like that?

I used a soft piece of wood to stop the flywheel from moving so I could loosen the nut, can I do the same to tighten it, or is this bad? I do not have a big enough strap wrench, but I will buy one if need be.

Last, how do I know the "specified value", should I call tecumseh, and how would I know its right. Is it a certain number of turns?
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