Burning off auger belts on 24" 2-Stage 247.886640 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 02-18-2015, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Question Burning off auger belts on 24" 2-Stage 247.886640

I have a Craftsman 5HP 24" Two-Stage Snow Thrower that I bought used off a friend a few years ago for a couple hundred bucks. The machine has done nothing but make me happy until last week when I broke an auger belt. No big deal, I thought, so I called a local parts store that happened to stock the replacement 35" 0430A belts. I picked up a pair for $28 and came home and put the new one on - No big deal. Well, what came next kind of surprised me... The new belts have nubs (teeth) on them and the main shaft coming from the motor constantly spins when the motor is running. Well, consequently, this chews on the belt... Which doesn't make sense. When you engage the auger, the belt tightens and spins and turns the auger as it should, but it makes a hellacious noise as it's ripping and burning through the teeth on the belt. Since I had a second belt (that's the same) I figured I may as well, let it burn and maybe when the teeth are gone, it'd run like it used to. It did... For about 5 minutes. The new belt is now toothless and stretched enough to pop off from around the pulleys.

I've attached a video I just made to help you understand what I'm talking about, if I'm unclear.


Why is this doing this? It makes no sense how it's set up - It almost seems as though there should be some kind of clutch built into that main pulley and shaft coming off the motor.

Thanks in advance for the help!!!
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-18-2015, 09:07 PM
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That is the way they are all designed and usually work fine for many years. It's also why you can't use a regular automotive fan belt on a snowblower, it WILL BURN UP.
You can buy the belt at an auto store but it needs to be specifically a lawn and garden or power rated belt as they do slip without burning.

That noise might be something else like the tensioner pulleys bearing going out. Try just spinning that tensioner with the belt away from it and see if it's grinding or kind of "ringing" as it spins.

The belt that broke, other than breaking did it look like it wore normally ?

BTW .. the ribs are just so the belt can bend around a small pulley and still have plenty of grip so it doesn't slip.

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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 02-18-2015 at 09:14 PM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 02-18-2015, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
That is the way they are all designed and usually work fine for many years. It's also why you can't use a regular automotive fan belt on a snowblower, it WILL BURN UP.
You can buy the belt at an auto store but it needs to be specifically a lawn and garden or power rated belt as they do slip without burning.

That noise might be something else like the tensioner pulleys bearing going out. Try just spinning that tensioner with the belt away from it and see if it's grinding or kind of "ringing" as it spins.

The belt that broke, other than breaking did it look like it wore normally ?

BTW .. the ribs are just so the belt can bend around a small pulley and still have plenty of grip so it doesn't slip.
Thank you for the response! It's actually a MTD belt made for the Craftsman replacement that I guess is slipping. Someone else had mentioned to make sure the belt was tight enough, but I had the tensioner on there pretty tight to the point where I was afraid I was going to break the spring. I have a friend coming over tonight (for a 2nd set of hands) to help put the new belt on and I'll see if I can tighten it up enough to keep it from slipping. I'll also check on the tensioner pulley as well to see if it spins rather freely without noise.

As far as the first belt that broke, it looks worn normally with the exception of all the ribs that were gone... Unless that is normal since the belts hanging around a spinning pulley all the time.
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post #4 of 17 Old 02-18-2015, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by klevrgrafix View Post
Thank you for the response! It's actually a MTD belt made for the Craftsman replacement that I guess is slipping. Someone else had mentioned to make sure the belt was tight enough, but I had the tensioner on there pretty tight to the point where I was afraid I was going to break the spring. I have a friend coming over tonight (for a 2nd set of hands) to help put the new belt on and I'll see if I can tighten it up enough to keep it from slipping. I'll also check on the tensioner pulley as well to see if it spins rather freely without noise.

As far as the first belt that broke, it looks worn normally with the exception of all the ribs that were gone... Unless that is normal since the belts hanging around a spinning pulley all the time.
I think you just solved your problem wit the statement above. The tensioner sounds like it is set up too tight when engaged. You can back off the tension with the cable adjustment screw(on my machine yours may be different) You only need it tighten it enough so that the belt does not slip. Over tightening it will cause premature wear as you know about. Back it off quite a bit and see what happens. Even if the control cable seems to have a lot of slack, that is ok. Over time the cable can stretch and this is what you have to do to set it up properly.

You got a good price on that MTD Belt. I know Lowes sells one for about $32.

Good luck!

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-19-2015, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Well, just put on the 2nd new MTD belt and I tried tighter tension and loose tension. Looser tension worked a lot better with no screaming but it still wore the belt down to about a 1/4" thick rubber band. It's boggling my mind because I don't understand what's burning through the belt! I'm wondering if these MTD belts are junk. I've never seen anything burn through a belt this fast!

The 2nd stage of the auger turns rather freely by hand both directions...

The only other thing I know to try would be the other v-belt I have coming in the mail that's not an MTD belt. Other than that, I have no idea and I guess I'll have to try a shop around here...
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-19-2015, 05:37 AM
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Your belt looked too loose when you engaged the auger.

You should engage it with the engine off and push on the middle of the belt. There shouldn't be much give it it. Maybe 1/4 - 1/2" at most. Also make sure your impeller bearings isn't shot. Are you sure you routed the belt around the brake correctly?

Try a local Tractor Supply if you have one nearby, they have belts for around $6.

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post #7 of 17 Old 02-19-2015, 05:47 AM
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I can't see the belt guide in the video, but if it's not in the right place the belt will do what it's doing. You want it about 1/4" away from the pulley.
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-19-2015, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Shryp View Post
Your belt looked too loose when you engaged the auger.

You should engage it with the engine off and push on the middle of the belt. There shouldn't be much give it it. Maybe 1/4 - 1/2" at most. Also make sure your impeller bearings isn't shot. Are you sure you routed the belt around the brake correctly?

Try a local Tractor Supply if you have one nearby, they have belts for around $6.
I didn't have the auger fully engaged in the video because at that time, I didn't realize the noise was coming from the belt slipping. The belt is tight when the auger drive is depressed and regardless of the tension, after about 5 minutes, the belt is worn down to about the thickness of a larger rubber band.
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-19-2015, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 94EG8 View Post
I can't see the belt guide in the video, but if it's not in the right place the belt will do what it's doing. You want it about 1/4" away from the pulley.
I'm not aware of a belt guide on this.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-19-2015, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shryp View Post
Your belt looked too loose when you engaged the auger.

You should engage it with the engine off and push on the middle of the belt. There shouldn't be much give it it. Maybe 1/4 - 1/2" at most. Also make sure your impeller bearings isn't shot. Are you sure you routed the belt around the brake correctly?

Try a local Tractor Supply if you have one nearby, they have belts for around $6.

I took another look at the video and the idler/clutch travel did not look like much. On my machine it travels much more to engage the auger.

Shryp in his infinite wisdom may have it here. The belt needs to go underneath the brake mechanism on the lower side of the auger pulley. If you did routed it over it, that explains a lot.

Tip the machine up on the bucket and remove the lower pan to get a very clear view of the brake mechanism. The brake is normally on. Meaning, when the auger lever is NOT engaged a spring pulls the brake against the auger pulley to stop it. When you install a new belt you have to release the brake. Usually by pressing the auger lever.

In the video it looks like the belt is too short and little travel is needed to engage it. Routing the belt on top of the brake would effectively do that. It also explains why the cogs on the belt wore down as you explained.

Take a look from underneath and you will quickly understand it.

Get your new MTD belt installed correctly around the pulleys. This is spec'ed for a cogged belt. If you get an aftermarket belt it will be a Number 3VX-350. If you use a standard 3L or 3/8 wide V-belt the thickness is a little less and it will probably not last as long. The cogs add life by reducing reverse bending fatigue imposed by a back side idler.

Good luck and keep us posted.

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