Free up my trac drive - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-15-2016, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Free up my trac drive

Every year when starting for the first time after sitting all year the tracks need a little help but they still eventually turn. Seems when I first engage trac it hesitates and so I start pushing while releasing and engaging and release and engage and push. Eventually it gets going but the disc takes a beating. Is there a way to lubricate the trac prior to starting and also before I store it to prevent this same stop and go, pushing and engaging process every year when I take it out. Which parts need lubricating to make it go easily. The only part I've been lubricating is the chain.

Ariens ST11528LE, 924125
Craftsman 536.884800, 5/23
Toro CCR-Powerlite 38182

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post #2 of 11 Old 01-16-2016, 07:29 PM
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My guess is it's one of two things:

1. the rubber compound of the track is just stiff, not a lot you can really do, shy of finding a suitable replacement. And the cost of doing that may be prohibitive.

2. either the axles or wheels are binding. My guess is that the axles are probably to blame. You could give them a quick shot of WD40, or something similar. Just be careful that it will not harm your tracks.

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MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-17-2016, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, the tracks seem fine to me, after a few minutes of hesitating it does roll smoothly. I will take off the cover and inspect the axles, never have done that in the 17yrs of ownership.

Ariens ST11528LE, 924125
Craftsman 536.884800, 5/23
Toro CCR-Powerlite 38182
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-17-2016, 09:28 PM
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I took a second look at the diagrams. Your machine runs on a friction wheel drive system. They do wear down, and the aluminum platter can become coated with oil. It probably would not hurt to look at it, along with your belts.

If you can, remove your belt cover and with the machine running, have someone engage the drive in the lowest speed you have. Pay attention to wether the belt is slipping on either of the pulley's. If there's slippage, there's you problem. If there is no slippage, then you'll have to place the machine in the service position, remove the bottom plate to gain access to the friction wheel.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-17-2016, 09:46 PM
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I wouldn't use WD40. I'd recommend a penetrating oil or even engine oil. Especially if you're going to lube it up before storage in the spring. WD40 dries up and it's protection is very limited where engine oil, wheel bearing grease, penetrating oil should still be there come fall when you fire it up and try to move it.

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post #6 of 11 Old 01-17-2016, 10:00 PM
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I thought about suggesting that, but to properly lube the axles with grease, you would have to do some disassembly. And I was not sure to what extent he was will to tear into it.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-18-2016, 06:50 AM
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I did work on a trac drive years back, the wheels that the track runs on were rusted onto the shafts. Those were metal and after cleaning up the shafts I found a spot with enough 'meat' to them where I could drill and tap for a grease zerk. Give it a shot of grease every so often solved their problem.
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-18-2016, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCBPH View Post
I did work on a trac drive years back, the wheels that the track runs on were rusted onto the shafts. Those were metal and after cleaning up the shafts I found a spot with enough 'meat' to them where I could drill and tap for a grease zerk. Give it a shot of grease every so often solved their problem.
That would be the ultimate fix, but I would suspect it would be a summer project.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-18-2016, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks fellas.
Yes a summer project for certain if at all, it is a a very old machine ( almost 20yrs ). I did check the friction wheel which I replaced a couple years ago and it looked slightly chewed in a couple small spots. The belts were worn but not horrible, I will replace those. I will also look into greasing/lubricating the wheels and axles, I have a day to spend on it. I really just want a new machine but funds are tight right now.

Ariens ST11528LE, 924125
Craftsman 536.884800, 5/23
Toro CCR-Powerlite 38182
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-07-2016, 11:18 PM
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I am seeing this thread a bit late.

I recently worked on a TRAC drive that was seized.
The metal axles build up rust which stops the plastic wheels moving.

See postings #11 and #22 on my other thread.
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...p-honda-c.html


Step by step disassembly is post #11
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/817041-post11.html

Adding the grease zerks is post #22
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/842442-post22.html
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