Can't tighten chute rotation - Craftsman - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-18-2017, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Can't tighten chute rotation - Craftsman

Have a 2002 Craftsman 9hp 29" (model 536.887990). For the life of me I can't figure out how to tighten the chute. The vibration causes it to rotate on it's own. I'm sure a common problem if the chute is loose.

I've had other snowblowers (Ariens) where I could just tighten a single nut - but this design is different. The chute seems to sit on top of the ring of teeth, but with no way to tighten. There doesn't seem to be a way to tighten the crank shaft, nor the chute itself. I realize there are many subtle differences among so many models of snowblowers - but I'm thinking I need insight from someone knowledgeable about this particular model.

If it's at all helpful, here's a link to the parts diagram: CRAFTSMAN SNOWTHROWER GAS Parts | Model 536887990 | Sears PartsDirect

What am I missing?

Thanks much!
Brad in MA
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-18-2017, 09:43 PM
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Do you mean that the chute rotates a lot? Like from aiming to the right, to aiming straight ahead? Or that the chute rotates by just a partial rotation of the crank?

If you mean a partial crank-rotation, maybe there is a way to help. I've had an MTD and and Ariens that would re-aim their chutes slightly. If I wanted to blow straight-ahead, I needed to have the crank facing a certain direction, which required the crank handle to likewise stay in a certain position. But with vibration, gravity would allow the crank handle to fall, and the chute would aim a little bit right or left.

I took a crude but effective approach. I took part of a bicycle inner tube, and wrapped it tightly around the chute-direction crank's shaft, where it went through a mounting bracket. On your machine, looking at the "Chute Rod" exploded view, I'd wrap the inner tube around the crank where it passes through the eye-bolt, item 860. I wrapped it tightly, then zip-tied the inner tube in-place. It added enough friction that the crank handle would stay exactly where I put it, rather than letting gravity pull it back down to the bottom of the handle's rotation. That let me keep the chute aiming where I wanted.

Sorry if this is not the problem you're trying to solve.

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post #3 of 8 Old 02-19-2017, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Do you mean that the chute rotates a lot? Like from aiming to the right, to aiming straight ahead? Or that the chute rotates by just a partial rotation of the crank?

If you mean a partial crank-rotation, maybe there is a way to help. I've had an MTD and and Ariens that would re-aim their chutes slightly. If I wanted to blow straight-ahead, I needed to have the crank facing a certain direction, which required the crank handle to likewise stay in a certain position. But with vibration, gravity would allow the crank handle to fall, and the chute would aim a little bit right or left.

I took a crude but effective approach. I took part of a bicycle inner tube, and wrapped it tightly around the chute-direction crank's shaft, where it went through a mounting bracket. On your machine, looking at the "Chute Rod" exploded view, I'd wrap the inner tube around the crank where it passes through the eye-bolt, item 860. I wrapped it tightly, then zip-tied the inner tube in-place. It added enough friction that the crank handle would stay exactly where I put it, rather than letting gravity pull it back down to the bottom of the handle's rotation. That let me keep the chute aiming where I wanted.

Sorry if this is not the problem you're trying to solve.
RedOctobyr - yes that is exactly what happens - you described perfectly. I didn't mention that exact occurrence but yes - if the crank handle is anywhere but 6 o'clock (aka hanging down) - the vibration and gravity will cause it to swing down, thus turning the chute. The difference the crank handle being at 12 o'clock (top) vs. 6 o'clock (bottom) causes the chute to rotate as much as 30 degrees - which is annoying at the very least.

I'll look into your method - thanks so much! However I would still ask the forum if there is a way to more properly stiffen up the chute and/or crank.

Thanks -
Brad
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-19-2017, 08:24 AM
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bsn, I redid a Craftsman (Murray built) 11hp, 30" over the summer that had this type of bracket and gear. I forget if there was some adjustment in the bracket to the chute housing, but I "think" there was not. If I remember correctly the bolts were carriage heads and were basically static, no adjustment. It also had a fairly thick rubber grommet inside the eye bolt that the rod went through on the handlebars. Along the same line of thinking as RedOctbyr, could you just cant the eye bolt so it imparts more friction on the rod instead of just supporting the bottom of the rod? If you can picture the eyebolt from the operators position, if you loosened the nut, rolled the eye hole forward so the edges of the eye hole would contact the rod both top and bottom, then tighten the nut. Would obviously cause the rod to be harder to turn, but if you still have the rubber grommet, should hold better. Hard to tell with out seeing.
Diagram below is misleading as the grommet and eye bolt go much lower on the rod (basically near were the diagram separates the rod drawing). The grommet boot is available from Sears for $6
Snowblower Eye Bolt Boot | Part Number 1501457MA | Sears PartsDirect

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post #5 of 8 Old 02-19-2017, 09:34 AM
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JT has the quickest and cheapest way to accomplish that task. I've also slightly bent the bracket that holds the pinion gear, to change the angle and tension of the relationship between ring and pinion gears. I think (I'm not at the shop right now, I'm texting in church), that there may be plastic 'Wear Blocks' that attach the chute to the outlet, that wear and allow the chute to free roll.

GLuck, Jay
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-19-2017, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Fantastic! I see that my model does not have a eyebolt boot, but the eyebolt seems to be the same part as the 11hp model. So I just ordered one. If the hole in the boot is small enough to cause tension then problem solved.

I can also play around with bending angles of components to cause more tension.

But Jayz - also curious to know more about the wear blocks. Can you describe more? (After church! That's where I'm headed myself right now)

Thanks!
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-02-2017, 08:05 AM
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I am not good at handling with this. return man 3

Last edited by dilioc95s; 09-03-2017 at 10:07 PM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-02-2017, 09:31 AM
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Turning the eyebolt is the easiest but you could insert a rubber grommet inside the eyebolt insert, or wrap electrical wire around the eyebolt insert thus making the hole smaller.

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