Fuel Line Obstruction? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Line Obstruction?

I did a quick repair to the fuel line. Rather than take the cowling off the engine and replace the entire line, I saved time and just connected a length of new line with a brass coupler at the point it had ripped (just before it goes in behind the flywheel). So this is the coupler I used. My question is, does this create an obstruction which could possibly cause a fuel supply issue - i.e running too lean

https://www.lowes.ca/brass-fittings/..._g1201951.html?
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Last edited by Dannoman; 01-24-2018 at 02:22 PM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 02:30 PM
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It shouldn't...Actual fuel flow to the engine is controlled primarily by the jet in the carb. Fuel is drawn, as needed, from the carb bowl which is refilled as required by a float controlled valve that lets gas in thru your fuel line. There is no fuel pump, so fuel flow to refill the bowl is gravity fed. The fuel flow thru that new coupler you installed in a gravity feed system, is pretty much identical to just thru the hose.
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 02:34 PM
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no, else shutoff valves, carb inlet and fuel outlet nipple would cause blockage and they dont.
on my old 10hp tecumseh it was fairly easy just to remove a few screws to get shroud pulled away to get hose snaked through. my new rubber lines od was a little to wide to pull through w/out moving shroud.

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 02:38 PM
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I replaced mine without taking the cowling off. Snake a coat hangar (or similar stiff wire) through the line in the cowl, and then pull the old line out, leaving the wire as a guide. Then slide the new line in over the wire, and once in place, remove the wire. Unless your engine has an unusual convoluted path for the line behind the cowl, this should get it done in 5 mins or less . . .

Having said that, the fitting should be fine. The bigger issue I see is leaving old, possibly deteriorating fuel line where you can't see it, and only you know the age/condition of the remaining line.
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnycom View Post
no, else shutoff valves, carb inlet and fuel outlet nipple would cause blockage and they dont.
on my old 10hp tecumseh it was fairly easy just to remove a few screws to get shroud pulled away to get hose snaked through. my new rubber lines od was a little to wide to pull through w/out moving shroud.
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Originally Posted by tadawson View Post
I replaced mine without taking the cowling off. Snake a coat hangar (or similar stiff wire) through the line in the cowl, and then pull the old line out, leaving the wire as a guide. Then slide the new line in over the wire, and once in place, remove the wire. Unless your engine has an unusual convoluted path for the line behind the cowl, this should get it done in 5 mins or less . . .

Having said that, the fitting should be fine. The bigger issue I see is leaving old, possibly deteriorating fuel line where you can't see it, and only you know the age/condition of the remaining line.
depends on od of new line, just a few screws too remove, 2 or 3 iirc, to loosen shroud, no need for complete removal

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

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post #6 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert A Fierro View Post
It shouldn't...Actual fuel flow to the engine is controlled primarily by the jet in the carb. Fuel is drawn, as needed, from the carb bowl which is refilled as required by a float controlled valve that lets gas in thru your fuel line. There is no fuel pump, so fuel flow to refill the bowl is gravity fed. The fuel flow thru that new coupler you installed in a gravity feed system, is pretty much identical to just thru the hose.

Thanks Robert! The reason I was asking is I did some work on the machine which included the fuel line repair. Now it's starting and running good again. But yesterday when clearing heavy snow and ice I noticed some sputtering and occasional backfire I think. So this morning I replaced the spark plug and cleaned out the air mixture screw (the one that sits just behind the slot on the heat shield bracket) and it seems to be much better. So hopefully that's it. I'll see next time it snows a ton...
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 03:05 PM
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I just looked at your thumbnail pix of your snowblower. how old is it??? If it's a pre-ethanol model ( before 2005ish), then you should replace the whole fuel line as the lining of the fuel line is likely solvent in ethanol and the dissolved material often finds a home in the fine jets of low horsepower engines ( and the idle jets of marine engines!) and causes no end of mischief.
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert A Fierro View Post
It shouldn't...Actual fuel flow to the engine is controlled primarily by the jet in the carb. Fuel is drawn, as needed, from the carb bowl which is refilled as required by a float controlled valve that lets gas in thru your fuel line. There is no fuel pump, so fuel flow to refill the bowl is gravity fed. The fuel flow thru that new coupler you installed in a gravity feed system, is pretty much identical to just thru the hose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert A Fierro View Post
I just looked at your thumbnail pix of your snowblower. how old is it??? If it's a pre-ethanol model ( before 2005ish), then you should replace the whole fuel line as the lining of the fuel line is likely solvent in ethanol and the dissolved material often finds a home in the fine jets of low horsepower engines ( and the idle jets of marine engines!) and causes no end of mischief.
My machine is a 1999 MTD with 10HP Tecumseh. The old fuel line is a softish kind of rubber material. 1/4" ID 1/2" OD Thanks again for this. I have several feet of new line which is dark black and stiffer and I believe it is ethanol rated.

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks again!

Last edited by Dannoman; 01-24-2018 at 04:45 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 05:32 PM
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If you are feeling brave you can take your fitting and connect the old and new lines together, Wrap some tape around it tightly and neatly and then you might be able to pull the new line through.


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post #10 of 10 Old 01-24-2018, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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If you are feeling brave you can take your fitting and connect the old and new lines together, Wrap some tape around it tightly and neatly and then you might be able to pull the new line through.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GXN19sCdN4
Wow, that's excellent. I was kind of thinking myself of trying something like that and now that Donnyboy recommends it I will definitely give it a go. Thanks a bunch!
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