Engine Breakin Oil Period - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Engine Breakin Oil Period

Hi Guys
I have 7 hours on my Honda Blower,in my user manual it tells me to run it for 20 hrs.before changing it.With the way things are going I won't be putting 20 hours on it this winter.
Since it will be laying around for the summer,should I replace it with new oil,or leave it in.I just like to leave used oil in my engines that's going to be not used for a long period.I am not sure if this question have been asked before.If not maybe Robert @ Honda can give me some advice what to do,there must be other members who didn't put 20 hours on their machine other than me and would like to know if they changed it out with a new oil change.
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post #2 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 10:54 AM
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Change it now. 20 hours on a splash lubed engine for break-in is on the high side. There is no oil filter to remove any larger particles that develop with the break-in process. 5-8 hours is frequently recommended by other manufacturers. Maybe Honda says 20 hours because their engines are built with tighter control/tolerances so any break-in material is minimal. Just play it safe since the amount of oil is so little to begin with.

Honda HSS1332ATD
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post #3 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 01:15 PM
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The factory fill oil is Honda’s power equipment 5w30. It’s not a special break in oil, it’s small engine oil, designed for splash lubed air cooled engines.

At 7 hours The vast majority of the break in has already occurred. You can honestly use any oil you’d like but, honda’s Own power equipment 5w30 would be the best option. It’s a little pricy but the piece of mind might be worth the couple extra bucks.

I don’t know about you guys but I personally spoil my snowblowers and work my lawn mowers like dogs. lol

I use synthetic blend oil and a splash of zddp in my small engines. My Honda snowblowers get Honda PE 5w30.

Honda HSS1328AATD | Honda HS720 | Toro Powerlite | Simplicity 860se


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post #4 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 05:02 PM
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The Ariens snow engine manual recommends the initial oil change after a month of use and every 6 months thereafter. For extreme operating conditions (more than 40 operating hours per year) the oil change interval is every 40 hours. The recommended oil is automotive detergent oil of 5W-30. Synthetic is an acceptable alternative.

I use Mobil 1 0W-30 synthetic and change it at the end of each season (I don't know how many hours of use that is). The contaminants in the oil include water condensation and acids which will deteriorate bearings and other fine surfaces.

2015 Ariens Platinum 30 SHO - model 921040
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post #5 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 05:58 PM
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Change your oil the first 30 minutes of run time, of light, easy use. I purchased a new left over 28 Hydro Pro with a carburetor, last Fall. I have an extensive engine background and I broke my in what I felt was correct with the knowledge I acquired in the past, everyone is different, just the way I did it.*

I first, ran it 3-5 minutes for warm up in not the lowest but a few hundred RPM's over idle. Then I turned the throttle up to 3/4 and walked it around for 10 minutes. Then I turned it to full throttle and walked it around for another 10 minutes. I idled it down for less than 3-5 minutes. After 30 minutes, I consider the engine broken it to be used at full throttle for snow removal.*

I then got my oil drain pan and laid a paper towel flat over the hole, it stuck pretty good. I drained the oil with under 30 minutes of run time and it looked real clean. I left the oil pan over night to allow the oil to fully run through the paper towel as it was built up and drained very slowly.*

The next morning, all the oil was in the pan and the paper towel was left. It looked relatively clean. Then I went out in the sunlight, you wouldn't believe how many small shinny partials were attached to the paper towel. My wife was outside with me and I showed her. She took a picture and I tried to find it but I can't. I'll put it here in a couple of days.

I did another oil change after we had a small snow storm, about 45 minute run time and no partials were visible in the paper towel, I thought I would see some, so 30 minute run time on my engine was critical for engine durability, due to if I kept the metal partials in there at the manufactures recommendations, I would of had a mildly worn engine from the beginning. This is why we never listen to manufacturers recommendations. My machine is one it's 3rd oil changer with a handful of hours on it. Now I will change the oil every 10 hours. No oil filter and in my option, 10 hours is my limit.*

It's a no brainier with me. I run Mobil 1 synthetic and throw it away like water. Oil is so cheap, if you want a long life engine. I can't believe anyone would want to save a few dollars on their brand new $1,000 - $3,000+ machines. Especially ones without an oil filter.*

So, when we build engines, we run them very short periods of time and change filter/s and oil, we do that twice before the engine goes out for use. Then we know it has "no fine partials" in the oil, doing mild damage to an engine right off the bat. Some people might say that's crazy. Well it might be. That is how we do it, like I said, oil is cheap, engines are not. We also use these on out HD diesel generator engines. It does many things: filters to 1 micron, replenishes and maintains the TBN content of the oil and also removes moisture from the oil. Oil changes are done at 4 times manufacturers recommendations with oil sampling and oil level replenishing system incorporated.

https://www.puradyn.com/filter-elements/
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post #6 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys appreciate you advice,I use 5W-30 synthetic in my vehicles,one of you mention it was a good alternative.I thought,since I have of this kicking around I could use it.But after reading your recommendations,which would be the better.I don't mine paying that little extra ,to get the best quality protection product.


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Originally Posted by AriensHydroPro28* View Post
Change your oil the first 30 minutes of run time, of light, easy use. I purchased a new left over 28 Hydro Pro with a carburetor, last Fall. I have an extensive engine background and I broke my in what I felt was correct with the knowledge I acquired in the past, everyone is different, just the way I did it.*

I first, ran it 3-5 minutes for warm up in not the lowest but a few hundred RPM's over idle. Then I turned the throttle up to 3/4 and walked it around for 10 minutes. Then I turned it to full throttle and walked it around for another 10 minutes. I idled it down for less than 3-5 minutes. After 30 minutes, I consider the engine broken it to be used at full throttle for snow removal.*

I then got my oil drain pan and laid a paper towel flat over the hole, it stuck pretty good. I drained the oil with under 30 minutes of run time and it looked real clean. I left the oil pan over night to allow the oil to fully run through the paper towel as it was built up and drained very slowly.*

The next morning, all the oil was in the pan and the paper towel was left. It looked relatively clean. Then I went out in the sunlight, you wouldn't believe how many small shinny partials were attached to the paper towel. My wife was outside with me and I showed her. She took a picture and I tried to find it but I can't. I'll put it here in a couple of days.

I did another oil change after we had a small snow storm, about 45 minute run time and no partials were visible in the paper towel, I thought I would see some, so 30 minute run time on my engine was critical for engine durability, due to if I kept the metal partials in there at the manufactures recommendations, I would of had a mildly worn engine from the beginning. This is why we never listen to manufacturers recommendations. My machine is one it's 3rd oil changer with a handful of hours on it. Now I will change the oil every 10 hours. No oil filter and in my option, 10 hours is my limit.*

It's a no brainier with me. I run Mobil 1 synthetic and throw it away like water. Oil is so cheap, if you want a long life engine. I can't believe anyone would want to save a few dollars on their brand new $1,000 - $3,000+ machines. Especially ones without an oil filter.*

So, when we build engines, we run them very short periods of time and change filter/s and oil, we do that twice before the engine goes out for use. Then we know it has "no fine partials" in the oil, doing mild damage to an engine right off the bat. Some people might say that's crazy. Well it might be. That is how we do it, like I said, oil is cheap, engines are not. We also use these on out HD diesel generator engines. It does many things: filters to 1 micron, replenishes and maintains the TBN content of the oil and also removes moisture from the oil. Oil changes are done at 4 times manufacturers recommendations with oil sampling and oil level replenishing system incorporated.

https://www.puradyn.com/filter-elements/
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post #7 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 06:20 PM
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We like Amsoil in the diesels and Mobil One in the gas engines. But they are all pretty good today. Here is an interesting article you might like:

What is the best synthetic motor oil?
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post #8 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 06:33 PM
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My Cub Cadet with a 420CC Chonda says 5 hours change the oil the first time.
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post #9 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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That is a very interesting article,regarding the Brand names.
I like you choice,now the problem is whether it's available in my area.
Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by AriensHydroPro28* View Post
We like Amsoil in the diesels and Mobil One in the gas engines. But they are all pretty good today. Here is an interesting article you might like:

What is the best synthetic motor oil?
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-12-2018, 07:23 PM
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Lots of truth in what AriensHydroPro28* says... I also check early and often during the break-in on any engine, to look for what's not supposed to be in there. The manufacturer's specified break-in procedure can be 5 hours or 20, or whatever, but those are just numbers on a piece of paper and won't get particulate contamination out of the engine. Put another way, if you pull the dipstick @1 hour and see metal contaminants do you thread the stick back in and run the engine for another 4 hours (or 19) before changing the oil? ...Of course not, at least not me. Get it outta there, lather/rinse/repeat until you're pulling consistently clean samples, *then* go to a regular hour/season based change schedule. This has rewarded me well over the years, so I stick with it.


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