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post #1 of 6 Old 02-13-2018, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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New Starter - Seems to match except...

Greeting snowblower fans. I tried to fix my old starter but it's toast. So I ordered a new one and it appears to be the same. The only difference is the part that's under the black plastic cap (nose) just beyond the gear is a little bit longer than the original. I don't think that will matter but I just wanted to check here to see if anyone has experienced a problem with that. Otherwise I'm going to mount it and give it a go tomorrow.
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-14-2018, 08:26 AM
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Assume you have 7-10HP TEC. I've seen long and short covers on the end of the starter shaft before. In fact I've seen some where it's long gone. If it's got the right gear on it, the overall length of the shaft looks right and it fits your engine, you should be good-to-go.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-14-2018, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Cheers HCBPH!
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-14-2018, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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I just went out and installed the new starter and I hardly had to even touch the little red button and VROOM! Oh what a feeling! Thanks to everyone here for their helpful advice to get my machine back to full functionality. Even the luxury item (starter). One thing I noticed is the two upper bolts that sit on the machine to accept the two finger prongs on the starter were a little wonky so after I installed the starter I tightened them up and put a touch of blue Loctite on the threads to stop them from shaking off. Thanks again to all.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-14-2018, 07:31 PM
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Define wonky? I suspect I know what you have here so I'll mention the solution and define what I think you're saying. Your old starter had 4 ringlet (circular) openings for the mounts and you had 4 regular bolts to mount it to the engine. The new one has 2 ringlets on the bottom and 2 U shaped mounts on the top with the new one. On this one you should have 2 shoulder bolts to mount the top 2 mounts. You snug those 2 in, slip the starter under them around the shoulders then bolt down the 2 lower bolts. The shoulders are only about the thickness of the starter mounting tabs. If you use regular starter bolts on the top, they'll be sloppy in their fit.
If you find the right material you can cut your own shoulders and slip them on slightly longer bolts, just be sure the bolts don't bottom out in the hole. Overtighten them and you can crack the block.

If you need shoulder bolts, try your local hardware store, farm supply or OPE repair departments. One of them should have what you need. Take your bolt and starter, I don't remember the size on them. Should be something on this order: https://www.mcmaster.com/#shoulder-bolts/=1bkmcxp (use the image to visualize them, they likely aren't the right size).

If that's right, hope it helps.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-14-2018, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a bunch for your reply. The old starter was mounted with only what looks like starter bolts and by wonky I mean the top ones were not holding well so I tightened one of the top ones and the other one (that was still loose) I replaced with a short bolt like this that came with the starter. It's not a shoulder bolt like you describe but it held the top part for the U shaped mounts just snug enough that it didn't jiggle around any more. I didn't crank them down extra tight. Just snug.
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Last edited by Dannoman; 02-14-2018 at 08:30 PM.
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