what to check when shopping for an old used engine? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Question what to check when shopping for an old used engine?

I found a 12 HP Tecumseh Snowking engine from a local resident. He asked for $65. His word is "have not seen it run but he think it's good".

I was wondering what are few most important things to check when shop for an old used engine. I don't have a compression gauge. I saw some guy leave use 2 fingers to cover the empty spark plug hole and pull the starter cord to check and see if it got comprssion?

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post #2 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 05:35 PM
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If the engine is complete you can put a plug it, some gas and start it on the ground. make sure it has oil At the very least you can squirt a shot of gas, starting fluid or carb and choke cleaner to make it fire.

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 06:29 PM
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Old engines that turn, can usually be freshened up to run strong. Corrosion from storage is always an issue . Points often corrode, and engine doesn't start . Figure on spending some money freshening up the magneto, than its done. Carbs are simple, and usually respond well to cleaning. Missing / broken parts are a hassle . The price sounds great .
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 07:18 PM
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You can check "some" compression by pulling the cord but that does not mean good compression. Best to spend $15 and buy a gauge, however it could have a rod knock and have good compression.

Agree with Micah, spray some starting fluid in the carb. You could even carry a snail gas tank with you and run the engine off of that but it may jump around. Sounds like this engine he got from somebody else.

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post #5 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 07:33 PM
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Agreed that a compression tester is a good tool to have available. Can also be useful for engines you already own.

A spritz of starting fluid, carb cleaner, or gas, into the carb may show if it's willing to start.

If it fires for a few seconds, that's encouraging. Fuel issues can be cheaper and easier to resolve than ignition problems, for instance.

Good price, IMO, if you can get it running for cheap.

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post #6 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLawrence08648 View Post
You can check "some" compression by pulling the cord but that does not mean good compression. Best to spend $15 and buy a gauge, however it could have a rod knock and have good compression.

Agree with Micah, spray some starting fluid in the carb. You could even carry a snail gas tank with you and run the engine off of that but it may jump around. Sounds like this engine he got from somebody else.
Thanks. I am still new to this. If rod crack down in there, should I hear some noise if I try to move the engine a bit?
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, everyone. I learn something new on this forum everyday.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-08-2019, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksj0823 View Post
Thanks. I am still new to this. If rod crack down in there, should I hear some noise if I try to move the engine a bit?
A rod crack and rod knock are two different things. Rod crack is a crack in the connecting rod and that is never caught unless the engine is taken apart. A rod knock is a looseness caused by a worn bearing. You may be able to hear it if pulled with curd but that means it's really really bad otherwise a small knock can only be heard if running. You need the rpms to create the looseness.

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1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-09-2019, 07:54 AM
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You may get lucky 50/50 chance. The best scenario is it needs the carb cleaned. Worst scenario the engine wasn't stored right and the cyclinders, valves, are pitted and rusted.

On 4 cycle engines a major enemy is rust inside the cylinder. Always leave single cylinder engines on the compression stroke. This can be found as you pull on the engine’s starter cord; when the resistance is the most, you’re on the compression stroke. Leaving the engine this way closes the valves so atmospheric moisture cannot attack the cylinder walls.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-09-2019, 02:40 PM
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