Novice here. Trufuel, end of season, run it dry? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-15-2019, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Novice here. Trufuel, end of season, run it dry?

Hi everyone I searched the forum and read tons of threads. But i have to ask to put my OCD mind at ease since none of the threads are exact to my specs.

New Craftsman. Used an hour. at most Ran only Trufuel. Used about 30-40 oz, so not much at all. The season is over and was curious if I should just leave the little thats in it, or run it dry. I saw suggestions for doing both but those running Trufuel said didn't need to.

And is draining the carb necessary? I have no clue how to do that so I am hoping you all say no haha!

Thanks for the help everyone. I know it isn't easy dealing with new people who don't know what they are doing. Appreciate the help, and insults.
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post #2 of 19 Old 03-15-2019, 06:41 PM
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If u have a fuel shut off, just run it dry. Because u used tru fuel to run it (not just for storage) u shouldn’t have to do anything(if no shut off) I’d run it a couple times over the summer


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post #3 of 19 Old 03-15-2019, 07:39 PM
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I'd like to believe there is a reason you pay the equivalent of 24 bucks a gallon for Trufuel. You should be fine. I personally don't think you need to run your carb dry but closing the shut-off if you have one won't hurt. I also think running it for a few minutes a couple of times during the offseason is good advice.
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post #4 of 19 Old 03-15-2019, 08:42 PM
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As the other two said with TruFuel you should be okay with just running it dry by shutting off the fuel valve while it's running. But I'm fussy and would drain the carburetor just because it's so easy - the carburetor bowl should have a 10mm bolt on the bottom, offset from the center and maybe a little lower. That would be the drain, just make sure the fuel is turned off, then remove that bolt (or even just loosen it if you're patient and/or afraid you'll lose it if you drop it) and let the bowl drain. When done, tighten the bolt and you're done.

I also do all the greasing, oiling, and adjusting that is done seasonally when I put it away. Some do this at the start of the season, I suppose it doesn't really matter as long as it gets done.
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-17-2019, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e.fisher26 View Post
If u have a fuel shut off, just run it dry. Because u used tru fuel to run it (not just for storage) u shouldn’t have to do anything(if no shut off) I’d run it a couple times over the summer
Hi! I don't think I have a fuel shut off, to be honest. I only have a "choke" to "run" toggle. And do I have the "run it dry" terminology wrong? I thought that meant to run it until all the gas in the tank (which isn't too much at the moment.. maybe 1/4 tank at most) ran out and the machine shut off.

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely run it a couple of times in the off season! I'm glad my trufuel investment is somewhat paying off for a novice like me worried about longevity. Thanks again!


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Originally Posted by dbert View Post
I'd like to believe there is a reason you pay the equivalent of 24 bucks a gallon for Trufuel. You should be fine. I personally don't think you need to run your carb dry but closing the shut-off if you have one won't hurt. I also think running it for a few minutes a couple of times during the offseason is good advice.
Haha! Yeah, thats exactly why I am doing the Trufuel.. hopefully for this benefit. I will definitely run it a couple of times. Didn't even think of that. Thank you!


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Originally Posted by WVguy View Post
As the other two said with TruFuel you should be okay with just running it dry by shutting off the fuel valve while it's running. But I'm fussy and would drain the carburetor just because it's so easy - the carburetor bowl should have a 10mm bolt on the bottom, offset from the center and maybe a little lower. That would be the drain, just make sure the fuel is turned off, then remove that bolt (or even just loosen it if you're patient and/or afraid you'll lose it if you drop it) and let the bowl drain. When done, tighten the bolt and you're done.

I also do all the greasing, oiling, and adjusting that is done seasonally when I put it away. Some do this at the start of the season, I suppose it doesn't really matter as long as it gets done.
Hi! Sorry for the embarrassing question, but does "running it dry" mean I turn it on then turn the "run" to the "choke" option?

Thanks for the greasing/oiling suggestion. I will search the forum on details on how to/what to! Thanks again!

Oh! Thank you! I think I found the carb bolt. I circled it.. And thanks for the directions on how to, really appreciate that.


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post #6 of 19 Old 03-17-2019, 03:53 PM
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Thats the OIL DRAIN!!!! The carb drain is on the bottom of the carb fuel bowl .
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-17-2019, 04:45 PM
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I am against draining carb., a little fuel stays behind. Pump gas has just enough alcohol to turn to water, destroying carb .
I'd add some * Fuel Stabilizer * to the gas tank, and give it a brief run . After running stabilized fuel, remove surplus gas from tank . Store with a little fuel to keep moisture out of carb. Turn tank shut off OFF to keep needle and seat from leaking. Storage does as much damage as use . Lube, dry, air out your machine . Occasionally pull cord. I oil cylinder at end of season . A toot of WD 40 would help carb too . Remove heat box, blast, replace .
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-17-2019, 05:02 PM
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Yup, slow down just a bit Let's make sure everything is identified and clear before diving in. As was said, the item you circled is the oil drain. The carb will be up on the side of the engine, near/behind the throttle/choke controls.

Not all carbs have a drain bolt. It varies by engine. In this image, the drain bolt is the one to the left. The bolt at the center of the carb bowl secures the bowl itself, that one isn't the drain. But some carbs will just have that single bolt in the middle, which holds the bowl on, and won't have a drain.



Running the carb dry is usually done by closing the fuel shutoff (assuming you have one), and running the engine until it stalls. If you don't have a fuel shutoff, it's worth considering adding one. But without one, you could siphon/pump out the tank (rather than burning that expensive fuel for no reason), then start the engine, and run it until it dies. You can add choke as it starts to stall, to help it burn through the last of the gas.

I don't use TruFuel, I add stabilizer to my gas. At the end of the season, I close the fuel shutoff, and run the engine until it dies, to run the carb dry. This has worked well for me. With better gas (TruFuel), you should be in even better shape.

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Last edited by RedOctobyr; 03-17-2019 at 05:04 PM.
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-17-2019, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunanocrust View Post
Hi! Sorry for the embarrassing question, but does "running it dry" mean I turn it on then turn the "run" to the "choke" option?

Thanks for the greasing/oiling suggestion. I will search the forum on details on how to/what to! Thanks again!
"Running it dry" usually means turning off the fuel valve and let the engine run until it quits for lack of fuel. As was pointed out if you don't have a fuel valve siphon the tank as dry as you can get it and then let the engine run until it quits.

As you have no doubt noticed, opinions vary about whether it is better to drain the tank dry or leave it full of treated fuel. I drain it because in my location having to run the snowblower next winter, or even two winters in a row, is not a sure thing. Some winters we get no snow, and others we get so little snow the most appropriate tool is a broom. Other winters we get buried so it's a crap shoot.

In places like Buffalo, NY you can pretty much bet the rent you're gonna need the snowblower. If that's the case where you are then sure, leave fuel in the tank to minimize condensation over the summer.

As for the "greasing/oiling" the easiest place to look for information on that is the owner's manual since it will be specific to your model of snowblower.
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-18-2019, 09:40 AM
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I always run them dry. This year did not even fire it up. So that would have been 2 years of the fuel sitting around.
Draining fuel is way easier than rebuilding a carburetor. Why risk it.
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