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post #31 of 57 Old 09-11-2019, 09:51 PM
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@rod330,

One of your earlier posts stated a frustrated ordeal with the wheel hubs rusted on the axle.

I weasel piss (PB) both ends, put on the puller (a harmonic puller set from Harbor Freight for 14.99, minus 20% off coupon at this time if needed) and tighten it, putting pressure on the puller, heat the hub with a Benzomatic Mapp Pro trigger gun (expensive, but well worth it if you don't have a set of torches).

After the hub is hot, I then tap it lightly with a ball peen hammer, and tighten up again on the puller repeat a few more times, being careful not to use to much PB in case of igniting it, within a couple minutes, it will be able to move right off .. I just did one today.

Cleaned up the axles, keyway and key, and Hub axle cavity. I then cleaned the bushing holder bracket and Hub and painted same, being careful to stuff the centers, so as not to paint the internal walls, . waiting on the new brass bushings, which should be here tomorrow,

Oh, on this ST524, the drive extension spring was broke on the end, as is pretty common . I just ground one side of a fender washer, slide it into the spring, 1 1/2 winds from the end, inserted a long small diameter screw into the spring, through the washer and out the other end, then I just inserted the good end of the spring into the hole in the frame, right above the bushing bracket, hooked it onto the idler pully bracket, then put another fender washer on the screw, and tightened it up and put double nut on it so it wont come off. . LOL, they want like 22.00 for that little spring ,,, crazy, not on my watch am I paying that.
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post #32 of 57 Old 09-12-2019, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, on this ST524, the drive extension spring was broke on the end, as is pretty common . I just ground one side of a fender washer, slide it into the spring, 1 1/2 winds from the end, inserted a long small diameter screw into the spring, through the washer and out the other end, then I just inserted the good end of the spring into the hole in the frame, right above the bushing bracket, hooked it onto the idler pully bracket, then put another fender washer on the screw, and tightened it up and put double nut on it so it wont come off. . LOL, they want like 22.00 for that little spring ,,, crazy, not on my watch am I paying that.
Yes, I think that's a much better approach and will invest in that HF puller you recommend.

Also, your spring repair is ingenious! I'm pretty sure I can envision it but could you send us a photo when you have time? Thanks!
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post #33 of 57 Old 09-12-2019, 08:50 AM
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That spring is already inside the machine, but I will fashion another one later today and post the picture.


Yeah, that harbor freight Puller set is a must if working on machines.


https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...set-62620.html

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post #34 of 57 Old 09-12-2019, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, that harbor freight Puller set is a must if working on machines.
Dumb question I meant to ask-- do you normally drill just 2 holes in the rim to attach the puller or does it require 3 holes?
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post #35 of 57 Old 09-12-2019, 10:45 AM
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No need to drill any holes, you just use 3 of the bolts included, and run them through the puller yoke into the existing hub lug nut holes, and just put a heavy duty washer with a nut on the end. (I used locking neoprene nuts so no movement, but that is overkill, reg. nuts will be fine, just make sure it is all the way on the nut, and not just grabbing a couple threads)


BTW, here is some photos of the spring repair, ... one is the actual spring on the machine, as being internal, no photo, but you can see the end. The other is the setup that you would use, as I fashioned another good spring, with the setup that you would use on a broken spring.


The other is just a photo of the cleaned up parts, all refreshed, waiting on the brass bushing bearings.
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post #36 of 57 Old 09-12-2019, 10:53 AM
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BTW, the Ariens plastic wheels thing. I will be trying out a workaround with them this winter.

I now own a couple 4 HP 922002's from the early 70's with plastic turf wheels. I took 4.10-3.50-4 Kenda K398A's, cut off the sidewalls, then fitted them over the plastic wheels (which were worn almost smooth slick). They fit very snug to the turf plastics. I then took some self tapping stainless screws and fastened these to the assemblies.

I never got a chance to actually throw snow with them, but the Kenda's are very grippy because they flatten to the wheel and are aggressively patterned. My only worry is over time how the screws will hold up. I supposed if they work loose from the holes drilled into the plastic I can always glue/silicone them to the wheels.

IIRC, the 932 series' Tonka wheels, those aren't turf knobbed, they're tractor tire knobbed...not sure if this would work.
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1974 Ariens 922008/922003 "Frankenstein", my dad's 1st new snowblower
1971 Ariens 922002/922003 "The Badger", recent addition, ready for snow
1971 Ariens 922002/922003 "Juneau", finally ready for snow
1971 Ariens 910962/910995 "Bill", SOLD 3/7/2019

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post #37 of 57 Old 09-12-2019, 11:18 AM
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@tl,


I would just get myself a set of split rims, a set of Sno Hogs, and be done with it. The pneumatic tires are waaayyyy better.
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post #38 of 57 Old 09-13-2019, 10:33 AM
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Sounds like I wrote this article! lol. I do very much the same things and I agree on older machines and the quality, but yes, they are not the best sellers because people are afraid of the age. Honestly, snowblowers have very low hours on them compared to mowers, but people fail to recognize that. First questions is always 'how old is it?" (Sigh) SO, I only buy and fix the newer machines. Yes - MTD is a big seller! I buy most of my machines at the auction houses. That leaves lots of margin for profit. rarely pay over 50 to 75 each. If I spot a real good buy of a private individual or a garage sale I might grab it up. I also bought a huge roll of conveyor belt at the auction house a few years ago..... that is what I cut new paddles from. I can flip the single stage machines pretty quick that way. The paddle kits are ridiculous in price. The only ones I buy OEM are for the Honda's. That is a much thicker and better rubber than you can get - and they are proud of them. I don't get many Honda's though. Cleaning the carbs is a one shot deal - the rebuild kits are as much as a new china carb anyway, and no guarantee it will fix the trouble. SO I keep a few in stock all the time (order them in bulk from china) I also cut my own scraper bars from flat stock, and I cut new skid shoes from sheets of HDPE plastic. You can save quite a bit on making your own parts. If I buy parts I usually buy off ebay sellers with free shipping and order multiples so I have a good stock. AS for my own personal machines - I have an old Areins 1032 and Honda HS35 for the light stuff..... I have a Craftsman (MTD) that I modified with a Honda engine and the impeller mod. That one really chucks the snow compared to the Ariens! But the quality is not there...... I still like it, and can't get myself to sell it! lol
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post #39 of 57 Old 09-13-2019, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad69cat View Post
Sounds like I wrote this article! lol. I do very much the same things and I agree on older machines and the quality, but yes, they are not the best sellers because people are afraid of the age. Honestly, snowblowers have very low hours on them compared to mowers, but people fail to recognize that. First questions is always 'how old is it?" (Sigh) SO, I only buy and fix the newer machines. Yes - MTD is a big seller! I buy most of my machines at the auction houses. That leaves lots of margin for profit. rarely pay over 50 to 75 each. If I spot a real good buy of a private individual or a garage sale I might grab it up. I also bought a huge roll of conveyor belt at the auction house a few years ago..... that is what I cut new paddles from. I can flip the single stage machines pretty quick that way. The paddle kits are ridiculous in price. The only ones I buy OEM are for the Honda's. That is a much thicker and better rubber than you can get - and they are proud of them. I don't get many Honda's though. Cleaning the carbs is a one shot deal - the rebuild kits are as much as a new china carb anyway, and no guarantee it will fix the trouble. SO I keep a few in stock all the time (order them in bulk from china) I also cut my own scraper bars from flat stock, and I cut new skid shoes from sheets of HDPE plastic. You can save quite a bit on making your own parts. If I buy parts I usually buy off ebay sellers with free shipping and order multiples so I have a good stock. AS for my own personal machines - I have an old Areins 1032 and Honda HS35 for the light stuff..... I have a Craftsman (MTD) that I modified with a Honda engine and the impeller mod. That one really chucks the snow compared to the Ariens! But the quality is not there...... I still like it, and can't get myself to sell it! lol
excellent post. I can't stand that "how old is it?" question also. have seen many many machines that are only 5-10 years old that are crap and conversely seen machines 20-25-30 years old or older that are in excellent condition. I try to point that out to people. Also the older machines seem better built and I point that out also.

it all depends on the owners and how well they take care of their machines.

auction houses , eh? never thought of that avenue.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #40 of 57 Old 09-13-2019, 08:35 PM
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I have become super picky lately with my snow blowers.

I only buy the largest single stages from Toro and honda. Most of the time they dont need much maybe a paddle replacement.

2 stage machines I stick with honda and ariens mostly they are easy to sell and the largest profit.

I haven't been finding many machines that dont run. So just looking for people under pricing and just cleaning them up and doing routine maintenance.



Its getting close to fall and I have 6 or so backpack blowers I am waiting to sell. I get as many of the large commercial backpacks I can.

They sell like hotcakes in the fall I cant keep them in stock I sell them as fast as i can get them and are good moneymakers.

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Toro snow commander 7hp RTEK ...honda HS720 GC190 OHC
Toro ccr3650 6.5hp RTEK ....Ariens sno-tek 26" 208cc LCT
Ariens st824 924082 HMSK 80 ....Ariens path pro 136cc
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