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post #1 of 24 Old 01-01-2020, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Speed problem

Hello,
I have a Noma 27Ē 8 HP snow thrower. When I put it in reverse I canít just put it back into first gear because it will stay in reverse. I have to put it in gear 3 or 4 to go forward again. Than I can put it in first or second gear. Any ideas why?
Thank you,
Earl
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post #2 of 24 Old 01-01-2020, 01:06 PM
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Welcome to the forum! It sounds like you have some slop or play in the speed-control mechanism, and/or it needs to be adjusted.

It's almost certainly a friction disk drive. You change speeds by moving the position of a rubber wheel over a spinning friction disk. Position the rubber wheel to one side of the friction disk, and you go forward. Move it further towards the edge of the disk, and you go faster. Position it over the other side of the disk, and you go backwards.

It sounds like you have enough play in the system, or it's sufficiently out-of-adjustment, that going to Forward 1, from Reverse, puts the rubber wheel basically over the center of the friction disk. So nothing really happens (other than kind of grinding a flat spot on the rubber wheel). When you go to Forward 3, then back to Forward 1, you've taken up enough backlash in the system than the rubber wheel ends up in the proper location.

You could tip the machine on its nose, and remove the bottom cover, to take a better look.

Or, as at least a short-term fix, you could adjust the speed-control mechanism to bias things more towards the forward direction. If forward 4, as an example, pulls on a linkage more than forward 1 does, then adjust it so you've pulled the linkage a little more than it does now.

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post #3 of 24 Old 01-01-2020, 01:25 PM
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post #4 of 24 Old 01-01-2020, 11:32 PM
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You want to be careful on just "
Quote:
tipping it on its nose.
Fluids tend to pour out, often gas from the carburetor and fuel tank and possibly engine oil.

You may need to drain the fuel tank and carb and possibly the engine oil drained.

Its possible to hydro a cylinder if left that way too long with oil leaking around the rings.

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post #5 of 24 Old 01-02-2020, 07:24 AM
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Agreed, follow your owner's manual's procedure for tipping the machine forward onto its nose.

On mine, I close the fuel shutoff, so gas won't pour through the carb. Running the carb dry first also helps. If I have more than maybe a half-tank of gas, I risk gas coming out through the vent in the gas cap. So I put a plastic sandwich bag over the opening to the tank, then screw the cap down over it.

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post #6 of 24 Old 01-02-2020, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Agreed, follow your owner's manual's procedure for tipping the machine forward onto its nose.



On mine, I close the fuel shutoff, so gas won't pour through the carb. Running the carb dry first also helps. If I have more than maybe a half-tank of gas, I risk gas coming out through the vent in the gas cap. So I put a plastic sandwich bag over the opening to the tank, then screw the cap down over it.
That or a latex glove works well for putting under the gas cap. I haven't had any problems with fluids once I did that.

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post #7 of 24 Old 01-02-2020, 09:10 AM
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I have tried a latex glove on my Ariens that has the LCT engine. In my case, the teeth on the cap are pretty sharp and shredded the glove when I screwed itís back in, allowing for some gas to dribble out.

I picked up a $10 siphon on Amazon and couldnít be happier. Itís two hose ends with a bulb in the middle. Wished Iíd had it years ago instead of trying the dreadful mouth method to siphon.
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post #8 of 24 Old 01-02-2020, 09:31 AM
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I'm fortunate that my Tecumseh tank threads are fairly large and smooth, so they don't tear things up while installing the cap.

I thought gas kind of attacks latex? I wonder if nitrile gloves might hold up better, if available. Polyethylene bags have worked well for me, polyethylene is what the tanks/gas cans are often made of.

I have a basic siphon pump, which works nicely, but I'll admit I usually just seal the cap. Not that I have to do it often.

Draining the tank is certainly a more guaranteed approach, no worries about whether something gets a hole in it. And the caps on some tanks are apparently kind of finicky, so putting something under the cap might be extra tough.

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post #9 of 24 Old 01-02-2020, 10:13 AM
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While you have the machine tilted on its bucket and the bottom cover off, check the hex shaft that the friction disc travels on is lubricated slightly. Move the friction wheel to one side and grease the hex shaft and then move the disc to the other side and grease the rest of the shaft. Over greasing may allow grease to fly off the shaft and contact the drive disc so grease sparingly.

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post #10 of 24 Old 01-02-2020, 10:52 AM
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However you get to look inside the drive area check the hex shaft for tilting side to side. That Murray/Noma style system uses interior mounted bearings that wear and can bind. Like Town mentioned do the greasing of the hex shaft. I've seen dry shafts people horsed around shifting and pop the ends out of the bearings. They really are more like wobble bushings and wear pretty quickly. If the hex shaft has excessive play or tilt it can bind the shifting like you describe.
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