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post #1 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Help needed from electronic Gurus!

So I am having an issue with a current set of LEDs that I purchased, after blowing a couple of them it turns out that the LEDs do not like anything more than 12V input. They are rated to be 48W at 12V.

The coils on the Honda snowblower I'll be installing these LED units on output 3A/50W at around 16V at max RPM.

The aforementioned LEDs run just fine at idle when the coils are producing around 9V but starts burning out at max RPM. I want to limit the input to the LEDs to 12V max, what would be the ideal way of doing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have looked at step down (buck) regulators but cant seem to hone in on the one that would work for my application without having any issues with heat.
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post #2 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 05:14 PM
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How about a link to the LED you're trying to use ?

On your Honda does it have one output or two and are you sure you have DC coming from the coil(s) ?

Are you only running one 48W LED and no other electrical loads on the circuit ?

Something like this - - >




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post #3 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 05:17 PM
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If you really determined that the highest voltage is at around 16 volts, the simplest way would be to add several rectifier diodes (rated at 3 amps or more) in series between the generator and the LEDs. Each diode drops about 0.7 volts so 5 or 6 diodes should provide the voltage drop you need.
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post #4 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 05:21 PM
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@JnC On the HSS series Hondas, they use the 31750-735-013 RECTIFIER, REGULATOR (5A) for the charging circuit. Your 48W application = 4A at 12V, so it would likely work fine; but have you actually measured the current draw of your LED array when hooked directly to a 12V battery? It is likely to be less than the amount stated. This one includes the wiring harness (from RF, though):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Hon...8AAOSw-1ZcrQC-

Last edited by tabora; 02-20-2020 at 05:31 PM.
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post #5 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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LEDs are identical to these, I have never had any issues with LEDs in the past but for some reason these ones do not like anything beyond 12V.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48W-LED-Flo...4AAOSwDJFdPH~9

I usually install a bridge rectifier an inline fuse and a rocker switch to control the light. The convertor above seems like a good idea but what about the following? Id like to keep the solution below a certain dollar value otherwise any higher than $5 a project would just deem me ditching the whole batch LED and switching to some other brand/supplier that would be ok working with 9~16v range.



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post #6 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 05:46 PM
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Not telling you to buy this type but look for similar voltage specifications.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/6X-24W-Flood....c100005.m1851



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post #7 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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The ones I got did state to be 12V 24V, which they all usually do and I have never had an issue, not any more though as these one start burning out as soon as you max out the throttle and voltmeter starts reading 16V.
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post #8 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guyl View Post
If you really determined that the highest voltage is at around 16 volts, the simplest way would be to add several rectifier diodes (rated at 3 amps or more) in series between the generator and the LEDs. Each diode drops about 0.7 volts so 5 or 6 diodes should provide the voltage drop you need.

Going that route a resister is whats is needed. Hmmm.


LEDs rated for the relevant voltage would be the way to go. See my next post, its an odd are power wise.

1998 YT624 Have Owners and Service Manual, Rubber Disc Drive (not hydrostatic)

Last edited by RC20; 02-20-2020 at 11:57 PM.
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post #9 of 26 Old 02-20-2020, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
I usually install a bridge rectifier an inline fuse and a rocker switch to control the light. The convertor above seems like a good idea but what about the following? Id like to keep the solution below a certain dollar value otherwise any higher than $5 a project would just deem me ditching the whole batch LED and switching to some other brand/supplier that would be ok working with 9~16v range.
Bridge only evens out the voltage it does not change the magnitude. You would have more overall energy content.

Just poor LED quality wise? Clearly the lights that come on them are designed for it (or the output is limited)


LEDs I worked with were for the application.


I found this on a search:
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ed-lights.html

1998 YT624 Have Owners and Service Manual, Rubber Disc Drive (not hydrostatic)

Last edited by RC20; 02-20-2020 at 11:56 PM.
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-21-2020, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC20 View Post
Bridge only evens out the voltage it does not change the magnitude. You would have more overall energy content.

Just poor LED quality wise? Clearly the lights that come on them are designed for it (or the output is limited)


LEDs I worked with were for the application.


I found this on a search:
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ed-lights.html



The quality, output and output color from these lights is brilliant. Its not the bluish smurf blue that you sometimes get from Ebay LEDs, hence is why I am so adamant on sticking to this brand, not to mention I have like 12 of them sitting here with me for future projects.



I have looked through the said thread and have mentioned this issue in it as well, didnt really get the answer just yet for my particular issue.



I am still unsure if I should go the diode route or if I should just get these step down convertors.






Last edited by JnC; 02-21-2020 at 07:38 AM.
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