Just got my first snow blower ! - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 22 Old 04-09-2014, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Just got my first snow blower !

This winter I was able to use my dad's extra 8hp snow blower for my apartment and acouple houses. I've been searching craiglist for awhile and found this craftsman 536886331 10hp 29" cut blower for $200. I washed it up real nice cleaned the carb and adjusted it all. Needs a set of skids and a scrapper bar but runs good now and the light works on it but was thing of putting a led on it. Just thought I'd say hi to everyone.
Both wheels are frozen on. Any ideas on hot to free them ? Already tried big hammer and pb spray and a big 2x4 in between wheel and frame.

Cheers Ben
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post #2 of 22 Old 04-09-2014, 07:51 PM
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welcome to sbf. theres a lot of good reading on here and the guys are very help full. gayland
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post #3 of 22 Old 04-09-2014, 08:10 PM
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hello benny, welcome to SBF

current machines
1-toro2450E-38419. 1-toro3000E-38435. 1-toro 3650E-38445
2-toro 521E-38052. 1-toro xl824pt 38086
1-.............,TORO XL 624ps..............
1-............, TORO XL 824ps..............
william
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post #4 of 22 Old 04-10-2014, 02:31 AM
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ALOHA to the forms.. you will have to soak them in PB BLASTER. works good. get a dead blow hammer 24-32oz. and go to town on them things..

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #5 of 22 Old 04-10-2014, 07:17 AM
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some pb blaster and a little bit of heat if you dont mind repainting the rims
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post #6 of 22 Old 04-10-2014, 07:52 AM
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Welcome

Welcome to the forum. Congrats on the blower, looks like a beast
Before I'd started soaking things down or hitting it with heat, I'd do some investigation.
Try some penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil first. I've bought a few machines that the wheels were rusty on the hubs (you did pull the bolts - right?).
They don't come off quick but most did, though it make days of treatment and swearing to get them off. I had one though that was so bad I ended up having to cut the hubs off the axel. When you get them off, use some antiseize on the axel where the wheel goes prior to putting them back on, it will save you headaches in the future.

Last edited by HCBPH; 04-10-2014 at 07:56 AM.
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post #7 of 22 Old 04-10-2014, 08:14 AM
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when i got my toro 824 3 years ago, the first thing i did was pull the tires off and greased the axles. i mentioned the heat because the heat will help to spread he pb blaster in between the axle and will help it go in deeper, dont forget to pull the pins
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post #8 of 22 Old 04-10-2014, 11:36 AM
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Garage
While you're doing this you might as well check the augers to make sure they aren't seized to their shafts too If you wiggle them or pull the shear pins the augers should be free on the shafts.

What I've had to do on tillers and blowers is to let the air out and remove the tire and tube if it has a tube. That way you can heat it as was mentioned earlier and when heating you want to shut off the torch and let it start to cool a bit before you start adding penetrating oil. +1 P.B. Blaster or Kroil. The cooling action is what will suck it into the joint.

Without the tire in your way you can also use a big three jaw puller to help apply some force as hammering on it is just bad. Some time it's the only way but any time you can avoid hammering it's a good thing as you're hammering on the wheel you're also hammering on the axle bearings or bushings.
If you don't have a big three jaw puller an auto parts store usually has "loaner" ones available. You buy it to take it from the store but get a full refund when you return it. Just don't grab a new one off the floor or you'll own it. Ask for the loaner tool.

2X4 against the body will likely only bend the body so be careful with that one.
.


I have a Troy that needed skids and I found Ariens skids on the shelf at Home Depot. They were double sided and much thicker than the TroyBilt skids. Just need to paint them now that it's warm.
I have gravel so the metal skids are good for me but if you have concrete or asphalt you might want to consider the plastic ones. They don't leave runner marks behind the way metal will.

.
Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 05-01-2014 at 08:22 PM.
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-10-2014, 04:35 PM
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A popular thing to do with equipment with seized wheels that is still usable is just to removed the pins / bolts locking the wheels to the axle and then use said equipment until the wheels fall off. Obviously, that doesn't work if you need to get it apart to fix something that prevents use.

Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
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post #10 of 22 Old 04-11-2014, 03:50 PM
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DO NOT pull the pins on a craftsman and use it. it could cause the axel shaft to walk and the wheel hubs keep the shaft centered cause that is what the chain gear is on and you could cause more damage. you have a similar blower to mine, there is a plastic sleeve between the wheel hub and the axel (spacer). rust forms on axel and hub causing everything to jam. penetrant may help but when I needed to remove mine to replace some parts and good dead blow hammer and a bit for brute force and ignorance it eventually came off. hit it from the inside, then out side work it back and forth and it will come. make sure you use and dead blow or rubber maul, a steel hammer will not transfer force and will destroy your rim.
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