por-15 rust encapsulator - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-22-2015, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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por-15 rust encapsulator

My Ariens 8526 has some rust inside the bucket around the impeller, I would like to address it this spring.and I don't want to tear it all apart to get the rust.I thought about using some sort of rust remover,and encapsutator.then get some Ariens orange paint,or some sort of orange that matches.I thought if I get some por-15 I can use a brush to reach the rust..I was wondering if anybody has used por-15 or a similar product before.if so how did it work?
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-22-2015, 12:05 PM
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Make sure you remove all loose/flake pieces of rust, but don't go to bare metal totally, it needs to bond to light rust. You can brush it on. Be careful because it stains really nasty. If you get it on your flesh it's going to be there for a while.

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post #3 of 13 Old 01-22-2015, 12:57 PM
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I've used POR-15 on cars, and it's great stuff. There's a bunch of similar brands out there as well.

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Previous: Ariens 624E, Toro CCR2000
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-22-2015, 02:21 PM
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Great stuff - works as advertised ….I will repeat…do not get this stuff on your skin.

Kindest
Kevin
Honda HS 1132

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post #5 of 13 Old 01-22-2015, 02:55 PM
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get elbow length gloves, and cut three holes in a garbage bag (like a shirt) to cover your torso, and do the same with your legs, then cover the rest of your exposed skin in saranh wrap.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-22-2015, 04:38 PM
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you are going to have to use their primer to tie that rattle bomb spray paint to it.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-23-2015, 05:41 AM
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I agree with all the above advice. POR-15 dries like rock. I did my impeller two years ago and it still looks great. One should use two coats. I only cleaned with degreaser. My impeller was quite rusty on my 94 Craftsman.
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-23-2015, 07:53 AM
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POR-15 is great stuff. I used it on the sub frame connectors on my Mustang 14 years ago and they still look mint. As others have pointed out, wear gloves and don't get that stuff on your skin.

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post #9 of 13 Old 01-26-2015, 12:24 PM
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I used that stuff on a discharge chute upgrade I made on my smaller blower. Two coats of the stuff and it looks really good. It's very thin and runny, so painting it on a vertical surface may be tricky as it will run.

I second the wearing of gloves and clothes you'll be throwing away afterwards. Nothing but an angle grinder will remove this stuff once it sets.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-27-2015, 02:28 PM
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I have used Duro's brand and others with great success. It is some sort of acid, so as the others mentioned, you will want to avoid getting it on you (goggles on if under it).

It is actually rust convertor, so it converts the rust to something else. To remove all of the rust would give it nothing in which to bond to so, you need a rusty surface...go figure!

You can either paint over it or not, but painting it makes it durable. I used it recently on that rusty steel drive shaft on my pick-up. They never paint those and they look really bad really fast. Two coats is what is recommended and seems to work best. It reminds me of painting with whole milk because that's the consistency.

QR
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