Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights - Page 122 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1211 of 1322 Old 11-02-2018, 06:17 PM
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Thanks Jerry. I did hear somewhere that the capacitors have an arrow on one side. And that is negative.

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post #1212 of 1322 Old 11-10-2018, 07:30 AM
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I have gathered the parts to add an led to my 932105 Ariens. I made a diagram to clean up the wiring when adding the capacitors to the DC line. If something is wrong let me know and I will correct it.
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post #1213 of 1322 Old 11-10-2018, 09:27 AM
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I have gathered the parts to add an led to my 932105 Ariens. I made a diagram to clean up the wiring when adding the capacitors to the DC line. If something is wrong let me know and I will correct it.
Your diagram is much cleaner then mine. Haha. The only difference in mine is that I'm converting one stock light to led and adding one to the other handle bar. But our wiring is the same. I didnt draw in a switch but I am going to put one in. I'm waiting till Black Friday to see if I can get some serious deals. LOL

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post #1214 of 1322 Old 11-17-2018, 09:44 PM
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First I want to thank everyone here for their LED posts! I’ve attached pictures of my mod along with some Ariens information on replacing the Ariens light bulb with a 881 LED, perfect replacement.

What you are looking at are 2 LED pods on the side of my machine. I went this way after a lot of consideration and I lean towards a nice clean look when I do my mods. I will upgrade my LED pods since I just had these laying around and wanted to get this mod up and running. I found a nice waterproof switch on amazon that you can see on my control deck.
overview of my wiring, all connections are soldered and shrink tubed, plus plastic wire housing. You will see I found some rubber wire housing holder at my big box store and tied them into the existing screws to hold the plastic wire housing. My wires pulls from the light wires, into my AC/DC converter (no longer available on Amazon), positive then goes to the waterproof on/off switch, then too my fuse, backside of fuse to capacitors, then positives to LED’s. All grounds went to the deck chassis where I drilled the LED mounts (sand down the metal). All ground tips soldered and crimped. Any questions just ask.

Here’s a link to a replacement of the factory light bulb since my picture doesn’t appear to work below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C7...op_mb_pd_title
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Last edited by Ariens28SHOND; 11-17-2018 at 09:59 PM.
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post #1215 of 1322 Old 11-18-2018, 07:28 PM
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post #1216 of 1322 Old 11-29-2018, 06:55 AM
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So my Capacitors are configured differently. I have two big ones. Wires coming out of opposite ends. My question is can they be wired in together (touching each other)? Maybe taped together to minimize vibration.

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post #1217 of 1322 Old 11-29-2018, 03:19 PM
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So my Capacitors are configured differently. I have two big ones. Wires coming out of opposite ends. My question is can they be wired in together (touching each other)? Maybe taped together to minimize vibration.

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Axial Electrolytic caps like yours are usually made with the metal case being the same as the negative lead(you can actually see the negative wire connected to the case). some of them are bare metal, Or the metal case may have a plastic cover over it.
In your case the negative wire from both caps go to the common (neg terminal of the bridge rectifier), so as long as you observe polarities, the cases can touch each other. If you are not comfortable, put some electrical tape around them for insulation.
In any case, if you are NOT using the engine block as a common (negative) ground, dont let the negative commons touch the engine block (I don't know what would happen??)
HTH
jerryR

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post #1218 of 1322 Old 11-29-2018, 03:29 PM
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Jerry, I was going to run both wires from engine block and the alternator to the two leads of my rectifier. No? Then 12vdc side of rectifier to LEDs with the two capacitors parallel to negative and positive. With the leds connected after the caps. And a switch

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post #1219 of 1322 Old 11-30-2018, 02:51 PM
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Jerry, I was going to run both wires from engine block and the alternator to the two leads of my rectifier. No? Then 12vdc side of rectifier to LEDs with the two capacitors parallel to negative and positive. With the leds connected after the caps. And a switch

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If I understand you correctly, your alternator output is ONLY ONE wire and the 2nd wire is attached to the engine block?
If that is the case than one side of your rectifier AC input is grounded.
If you come out of your rectifier (DC ) with 2 wires going to the caps and to your lights you should be OK.
I don't know what would happen if you ground the DC negative- Maybe nothing??, personally, I would not ground the negative DC output.
HTH
JerryR

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post #1220 of 1322 Old 11-30-2018, 03:23 PM
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Yes one wire coming from engine. Second wire is bolted to block. One wire to each wire on rectifier. Then 12vdc going to caps and lights. Negative and positive to the lights. No other ground.

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