Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights - Page 133 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1321 of 1357 Old 03-04-2019, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ddub View Post
I tapped into the original headlight wiring and yeah.. 2 seasons now.. No problems.
You haven't mentioned what make/model blower you have, but that's listed as a DC-only light, so you must have a machine that generates DC - you lucked out.
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post #1322 of 1357 Old 03-09-2019, 10:37 AM
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DC LED lights will work when powered by AC but it's not as the manufacturer intended. AC swings both positive (DC) and negative. You just won't be delivering full power to them (only 50% duty cycle) and depending upon how the LED light is designed you might do damage over time since you are exceeding spec. Some DC lights have rectifiers circuitry built in, hard to tell unless advertised. The best way to tell if you are overloading a circuit is to measure the in-line current (amps) will light is on with volt/amp meter. If you don't know how to do that you can just measure the voltage (volts) at the DC LED light terminals while running (light is on). If it maintains the 12V's then your stator is keeping up with things. If it's dropping to 8-10V then its being burdened and not a good situation but still will light up. At $20 cost for LED light you can just replace if/after it burns outs but not as easy if the stator gets damaged.
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post #1323 of 1357 Old 03-09-2019, 10:41 AM
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I documented my LED upgrade (see below link). Might have some info you are looking for. But this only applies to my 2018 Ariens Platinum 30 blower. If different then you got to measure. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux...grade.pdf?dl=0
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post #1324 of 1357 Old 04-07-2019, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddywrangler View Post
Could the stator be damaged, or anything else damaged if I run too high of wattage.
Yes, you can burn up a stator. I should have taken a picture of what a melted 18 watt stator looks like before I pitched it out. The moral of that story was that in line fuses are much cheaper and far easier to replace than stators. I went 2 winters with no lights because I decided to use two 18 watt lights which actually worked well for about 5 hours before it smoked the stator lol.

1999 MTD (Mastercraft) 10.5 HP 29" (Restored 2014)
Snow Joe SJ624e (for the deck)
1979 Toro 824 (fully restored)
2017 Husqvarna (shouldn’t have bought it)
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post #1325 of 1357 Old 10-07-2019, 04:06 PM
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Any new inexpensive LED spot or flood fixtures on the market that wire directly w/o additional circuitry?


Also, why doesn't the stock wiring on an Ariens have a fuse? Are fuses only needed when you add an LED?
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post #1326 of 1357 Old 10-07-2019, 05:42 PM
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Fuses are pretty much personal preference. Anal people will always put them in, and lazy people won't. I feel that are optional and not needed
Guess I am lazy.
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post #1327 of 1357 Old 10-10-2019, 08:51 AM
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cub cadet light upgrade 18W or more?

I have a cub cadet model : 31AH6ZK4596 serial : 1l028l30067. Motor Briggs & Stratton family 8BSXS.3422SW. Build date 07 08. No heating grip.
The incandescent light (18W) is dead and I want replace with 2 led like Auxbeam LED Light Bar 4" 18W, with rectifier, capacitors…..
(


)
How to know the capacity of watt that can I plug. I want 18W x 2. I don’t want dommage the stator. I can go safe with 18W but if I can go more I will going

Thank you
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post #1328 of 1357 Old 10-10-2019, 09:10 AM
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Wow, you'll be lit up for sure with those bad boys ...
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post #1329 of 1357 Old 10-10-2019, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblkiller View Post
How to know the capacity of watt that can I plug. I want 18W x 2.
I installed a set of those on my Toro Zero Turn mower. They actually draw a fraction of 18W, so you should be OK.
https://www.mylawnmowerforum.com/for...tml#post586037
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post #1330 of 1357 Old 10-11-2019, 09:12 AM
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Nice one, Keep up the good work man.
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