Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 1322 Old 12-03-2013, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by darcy32171 View Post
So when out and about searching for everything...: Does it matter what Bridge Rectifier??? I hate looking like a dummy when asked at the store lol. Then they(store clerk) says "Whats it for" and I say "snowblower" then they say "Pfft, we don`t handle that stuff, go to a snowblower shop" lol. Are there any certain ones I need? Mine is a 18v system if that matters any.
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I don't have a blower with an AC system, so I am just asking a couple questions on behalf of those that may.

Would one of these from my neighborhood Radio Shack work? Assuming the purchaser has the soldering skills to connect the four wires!
bridge rectifier at radio shack

Also
How much heat do you figure they make while rectifying say just 3 amps? Do you think it would fry it without any heatsink attached?
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post #12 of 1322 Old 12-04-2013, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbert View Post
SE88
Thanks for this thread
I don't have a blower with an AC system, so I am just asking a couple questions on behalf of those that may.

Would one of these from my neighborhood Radio Shack work? Assuming the purchaser has the soldering skills to connect the four wires!
bridge rectifier at radio shack

Also
How much heat do you figure they make while rectifying say just 3 amps? Do you think it would fry it without any heatsink attached?
That bridge rectifier should work great! I found that there wasn't much price difference at all to go with the higher rated one that I described in the first post. I think that there is no heat sinking required until you get near half the rating of the rectifier, but that is just from my personal experience and I have no idea what the manufacturer suggests.
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post #13 of 1322 Old 12-05-2013, 08:57 AM
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I got everything mounted and wired up last night. Man, those little 10W CREE LED's are BRIGHT!! Makes my stock headlight seem like a dimly lit candle in comparison.

I now have another reason why I kept the stock headlight provision. When I go to blow out our neighbors driveway I have to walk the blower an 1/8th mile down a narrow, rural, unlit road. When I do this at night I'm going to have to use the stock headlight, as my CREE's are just too bright for oncoming cars and may blind them.

I will try to take some photos and post them here.

BTW, I have my AC input lead (to the rectifier) fused at only 2amps and it seems to be holding up just fine. The rectifier DC output voltage is right around 16.5V at WOT (~3,750rpms)

Below are what parts I'm using:

- 1000 Volt Bridge Rectifier 50 Amp 50 A Metal Case 1000V 50A Diode Bridge | eBay

- 2pc 10W LED CREE Spot Head Light Off Road Beam for Car Jeep Veicle ATV UTV SUV | eBay

- 3 x Mini Fuse Holder with 16 Gauge Inline Wire Weather Proof Design | eBay

- Heavy Duty SPDT Toggle Switch 20 Amps 125VAC on Off On | eBay



I also picked up another pair of flood lights. I currently like the way my 30 spots work but may swap one to a flood to see which one I like better.

- 2X10W CREE LED Flood Work Light LED Offroad Car Boat Vehicle Jeep Truck Bike ATV | eBay
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post #14 of 1322 Old 12-05-2013, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRHAWK9 View Post
I got everything mounted and wired up last night. Man, those little 10W CREE LED's are BRIGHT!! Makes my stock headlight seem like a dimly lit candle in comparison.

I now have another reason why I kept the stock headlight provision. When I go to blow out our neighbors driveway I have to walk the blower an 1/8th mile down a narrow, rural, unlit road. When I do this at night I'm going to have to use the stock headlight, as my CREE's are just too bright for oncoming cars and may blind them.

I will try to take some photos and post them here.

BTW, I have my AC input lead (to the rectifier) fused at only 2amps and it seems to be holding up just fine. The rectifier DC output voltage is right around 16.5V at WOT (~3,750rpms)

Below are what parts I'm using:

- 1000 Volt Bridge Rectifier 50 Amp 50 A Metal Case 1000V 50A Diode Bridge | eBay

- 2pc 10W LED CREE Spot Head Light Off Road Beam for Car Jeep Veicle ATV UTV SUV | eBay

- 3 x Mini Fuse Holder with 16 Gauge Inline Wire Weather Proof Design | eBay

- Heavy Duty SPDT Toggle Switch 20 Amps 125VAC on Off On | eBay



I also picked up another pair of flood lights. I currently like the way my 30 spots work but may swap one to a flood to see which one I like better.

- 2X10W CREE LED Flood Work Light LED Offroad Car Boat Vehicle Jeep Truck Bike ATV | eBay
Good to hear that your work is paying off! Let us know how things go!
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post #15 of 1322 Old 12-05-2013, 04:49 PM
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Whats with the three fuses? Would you only need one in-between the yellow wire and rectifier? How did you wire up the three.
Let me get this straight cause I have noticed lots of chatter on the 10 watt LEDS: If I end up in the city and see a bunch of LED lights (flood or spot) as long as they are 10 watt, I`m good to go?

Last edited by darcy32171; 12-05-2013 at 04:51 PM.
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post #16 of 1322 Old 12-05-2013, 07:01 PM
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Darcy,
I think he just got them at a package deal maybe. se88 suggested a fuse before and after
the rectifier just to be safe when we were going on about this I ran a 3amp auto fuse after the rectifier on the + dc side just to test (no load) nothing blew up. But it probably wouldn't hurt to have two, fuses are cheap.
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post #17 of 1322 Old 12-05-2013, 07:03 PM
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Dah read previous posts he's running his stock lights also a switching between the two so he put on three
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post #18 of 1322 Old 12-05-2013, 09:55 PM
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I'm running one fuse (2 amp) on my AC line from the stator to the rectifier and I also have each LED fused. I have 2 amp fuses there too, solely because they didn't have 1 amp ones.

I have things wired up to add a second pair to be switched as "high beams".....lol I will have LED flood lights as my normal and then a pair of LED 30 spots as my "high beams". When I have all four LED's on I will not be using my hand warmers, which I hardly ever use anyway.

Below is a video I just took demonstrating the two LED 30 spots installed and comparing them to the stock headlight.


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post #19 of 1322 Old 12-06-2013, 06:05 PM
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Wow Hawk, the difference is amazing!


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post #20 of 1322 Old 12-12-2013, 10:31 PM
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So, I have my two sets of LED's wired up so one set is on with one switch and the other set is turned on separately with another switch. That part works great. What I find strange is when I meter the voltage on the AC line coming out of the stator it seems to INCREASE voltage when I turn the LED's on?! lol IE, it reads 15.5V or so with NO load. Turn on the stock light and it will drop to 14.xV....then turn on the handwarmers while leaving the stock light on and it will drop to 13.xV.

Now, if I turn on the first set of LED's it goes up to like 16.xV, add the second pair and it goes up to 17.xV. If I leave all four on and then turn on the handwarmers it will drop to 14-15V IIRC. I was measuring the voltage drop because I wanted to compare it to the stock stuff. I was surprised to see what I saw.

Can any of you electrical gurus explain what I seeing?
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