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post #21 of 25 Old 03-27-2019, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AclockworkBlue View Post
I just changed my oil in my HSS724ATD today. It only has a couple of hours on it, but I change my oil in all my machines every year. It can't hurt to have some fresh clean oil flowing through it. Just my two cents!
Actually, "fresh clean oil" too soon can do a lifetime of damage. That dirty oil with metal particles in it helps everything fit together before glazing can set in; it's all part of the break-in process. Here's a great article on the subject: New Engine Break-in Procedure
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post #22 of 25 Old 03-27-2019, 08:58 PM
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No matter how few hours it's been run, nothing good comes from leaving old oil (and whatever particulates, condensation, etc. have collected in it!) sitting in the engine for 6-9 months. Oil is (relatively) cheap - spend a few dollars and treat the engine properly. It's the cheapest engine insurance you'll ever buy.

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post #23 of 25 Old 03-27-2019, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by IDEngineer View Post
No matter how few hours it's been run, nothing good comes from leaving old oil (and whatever particulates, condensation, etc. have collected in it!) sitting in the engine for 6-9 months. Oil is (relatively) cheap - spend a few dollars and treat the engine properly. It's the cheapest engine insurance you'll ever buy.
Again, it's NOT about the cost; it's about letting the engine parts come together. If I were really concerned, I'd just run the engine at varying speeds to get the hours up to 10 in season one before changing the oil (snow or no snow), but 55 years of breaking in engines later it's never been an issue to leave the initial oil in until 10-12 hours of run time. It HAS been an issue the one time I decided to change it early and it required a tear-down and re-honing the cylinder walls to fix it. It looked like a fog machine before I remedied it. (Kawasaki generator engine.)

Last edited by tabora; 03-27-2019 at 10:01 PM.
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post #24 of 25 Old 03-28-2019, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabora View Post
Actually, "fresh clean oil" too soon can do a lifetime of damage. That dirty oil with metal particles in it helps everything fit together before glazing can set in; it's all part of the break-in process. Here's a great article on the subject: New Engine Break-in Procedure
That's interesting, I hadn't heard that.

I didn't get to read the article thoroughly, but I at least didn't notice where they said to leave the particles in for a while, for a break-in benefit. Unless you mean at the end, when there was discussion of changing the oil after 4 brief break-in sessions totaling maybe an hour?

An engine with a filter also has the benefit of at least managing the particulates. Unfiltered engines like on a lot of small OPE don't have that, there could be bigger random stuff floating in the oil.

You have a lot more experience with these than I do, and 95% of my engines have been bought used anyhow. But I'm still more comfortable with the idea of changing it after the first few hours (still conventional).

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post #25 of 25 Old 03-28-2019, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabora View Post
Actually, "fresh clean oil" too soon can do a lifetime of damage. That dirty oil with metal particles in it helps everything fit together before glazing can set in; it's all part of the break-in process. Here's a great article on the subject: New Engine Break-in Procedure

Interesting article. Machining and tolerances has improved since '91 when the article being referenced was written.



I'm going my manufacturer's recommendation in my manual stating "change oil after first month or 20 hours" whichever first.
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