Bought an HS1132 - Carburetor and Maintenance - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 10:43 AM
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So I played with the adjustments for the clutch engage mechanisms and now the drive does lock when the auger is engaged. So thanks for that! My next task is taking off the carb again and this time taking out the low idle needle and the area below the low throttle set screw and cleaning those areas as well as the main jet again. The gaskets look good. Thanks again to everyone for the help so far!
please check back if and when you find the problem and solution. your experience will help a lot of people.

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post #12 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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So I just got through with cleaning the carb again. There was residue in the float bowl which I thought was odd since I just cleaned it the day before. I took it all apart and this time I removed the two plastic pieces that sit below the low throttle set screw so I could get to that area. I took cleaner and sprayed through every single hole and port just like the video showed. I really went through it thoroughly and made sure even my hands stayed clean during the reassembly process. I removed the jet assemblies as well and cleaned those just as I did yesterday but just more thoroughly. The only thing I didn't remove is the needle which has the stopper on it (the one that can't be removed unless the stopper is taken off). I put it all back together, started it up (starts consistently on one easy pull) with the choke half open. I let it run on low idle for a while but when I started to increase the throttle, it again started to act funny. I had to close the choke more in order to get it to run on high throttle but it would start to choke out once I started to open the choke. So it still is running the same where it seems to operate fine at half choke. I did notice some popping happening while playing around with the choke and throttle positions.

So I think the next step is to move on to the valves and check their clearances?

One other question I have is how do I make the throttle control hold the engine at full throttle? I've noticed that while running on wide open, if I push and hold the throttle control on the handlebars the engine will increase RPM to what sounds to me like full throttle. Once I removed my hand from the lever the RPM drops again. Is this a cable adjustment or do I need to lubricate/clean something?
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post #13 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 05:05 PM
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So I just got through with cleaning the carb again. There was residue in the float bowl which I thought was odd since I just cleaned it the day before. I took it all apart and this time I removed the two plastic pieces that sit below the low throttle set screw so I could get to that area. I took cleaner and sprayed through every single hole and port just like the video showed. I really went through it thoroughly and made sure even my hands stayed clean during the reassembly process. I removed the jet assemblies as well and cleaned those just as I did yesterday but just more thoroughly. The only thing I didn't remove is the needle which has the stopper on it (the one that can't be removed unless the stopper is taken off). I put it all back together, started it up (starts consistently on one easy pull) with the choke half open. I let it run on low idle for a while but when I started to increase the throttle, it again started to act funny. I had to close the choke more in order to get it to run on high throttle but it would start to choke out once I started to open the choke. So it still is running the same where it seems to operate fine at half choke. I did notice some popping happening while playing around with the choke and throttle positions.

So I think the next step is to move on to the valves and check their clearances?

One other question I have is how do I make the throttle control hold the engine at full throttle? I've noticed that while running on wide open, if I push and hold the throttle control on the handlebars the engine will increase RPM to what sounds to me like full throttle. Once I removed my hand from the lever the RPM drops again. Is this a cable adjustment or do I need to lubricate/clean something?
what kind of residue? white type crystals?

did you clean the idle jet by spraying up from the bottom hole? ( picture of idle/pilot jet ). how did that small O-ring look? if flat or damaged , then needs replacing. ( 1x4 mm I think )

did you remove the emulsion tube and clean all the small holes? I put a flashlight behind it to make sure all the holes are unplugged.

only reason asking because you did not mention specifically these parts.

I have done hundreds of these and now use an ultrasonic cleaner to do a very thorough job. before that usually by hand worked very well. sometimes had to do them twice.

you also did not mention ( i think ) if you observed choke action with air box off so you could see the choke plate closing all the way with choke full on and plate all the way open when throttle in fast position ( 2nd pic ).

it could be valve adjustment ( done while cold ) but in my experience this is very rarely the problem. only take a few minutes to find out though.
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post #14 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 05:34 PM
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A couple of other things of consequence are your altitude and the number on your main jet (the one below the emulsion tube). You may just be running a little lean due to a mismatch...
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post #15 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post

what kind of residue? white type crystals?

did you clean the idle jet by spraying up from the bottom hole? ( picture of idle/pilot jet ). how did that small O-ring look? if flat or damaged , then needs replacing. ( 1x4 mm I think )

did you remove the emulsion tube and clean all the small holes? I put a flashlight behind it to make sure all the holes are unplugged.

only reason asking because you did not mention specifically these parts.

I have done hundreds of these and now use an ultrasonic cleaner to do a very thorough job. before that usually by hand worked very well. sometimes had to do them twice.

you also did not mention ( i think ) if you observed choke action with air box off so you could see the choke plate closing all the way with choke full on and plate all the way open when throttle in fast position ( 2nd pic ).

it could be valve adjustment ( done while cold ) but in my experience this is very rarely the problem. only take a few minutes to find out though.
The residue was little brown light colored specs. Not much but they were there.

Yes I did clean the idle jet by spraying up into the hole. I sprayed through every hole on the carb in both directions. The o-ring looked round and not flat.

I did remove the emulsion tube and spray it thoroughly and also made sure all the holes were clear by holding it up to the light.

Yesterday I did start and run it with the air box off but I didn’t observe what the choke did aside from watching it open and close as I adjusted it on the handlebars.
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post #16 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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A couple of other things of consequence are your altitude and the number on your main jet (the one below the emulsion tube). You may just be running a little lean due to a mismatch...
I live in Massachusetts so it wouldn’t be altitude. I did not take note of the number on my main jet. Owner told me it ran fine in the winter and every winter that he’s used it so either he’s not being honest or maybe he ran it with partial choke all the time. Or maybe he’s right and it’ll run fine in the winter.
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post #17 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 12:03 AM
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One other thing, make sure you are using only low octane gas, do not use high octane in a Honda engine.
They are designed to run on regular. The lower octane has a faster more complete burn to it when ignited in the cylinder, therefore pushing the piston down harder when it is ignited.
Honda engines are designed for the regular gas with low octane by not having a lot of ignition timing advance that is required with using high octane fuel with its slower burn rate in the cylinder when ignited.
The high octane, or premium fuel will give harder starting and a rougher idle because it isn't burning to full capacity when ignited before the exhaust valve opens.
You will actually loose power and performance, and fuel milage with premium/high octane fuel. You don't get the complete burn out of it before it is exhausted, it is still finishing up its burn when the valve opens and is being dumped into the muffler. The low/regular gas has burned more completely before the exhaust valve opens, therefore pushing the piston down even harder thus creating more power on the power stroke.
I worked with the Honda engineers years ago when we studied this and helped with the development of some engine characteristics. That is why on a lot of the newer engines with high compression you can use regular gas in them, they were developed and designed for it with a lot of changes in the combustion chambers to deter "knocking" or piston knock, which has been greatly eliminated now in most of the newer engines.
Plus, you will save money by being able to use the lesser expensive regular gas instead of having to have to use premium octane gas.
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post #18 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darco813 View Post
I live in Massachusetts so it wouldn’t be altitude. I did not take note of the number on my main jet. Owner told me it ran fine in the winter and every winter that he’s used it so either he’s not being honest or maybe he ran it with partial choke all the time. Or maybe he’s right and it’ll run fine in the winter.
Well, the point is that if you are at sea level and the jet is a high altitude one, you would experience a lean condition that would require choke to run smoothly. The standard jets were 92, 95 or 98. At sea level, you want a 98.
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post #19 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 12:18 AM
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That little bit of an increase in R.P.M.'s is normal when you move the throttle lever to the choke position, that is just the way the throttle linkage is designed. It is just putting a little extra tension on the governor spring as the choke linkage is being contacted and activated.
There is an adjusting screw to let you adjust the full throttle R.P.M.'s. You can raise or lower the speed by adjusting the screw setting.
The engine usually developes its peak torque around 3100R.P.M.'s, and peak Horsepower around 3600 R.P.M.'s.
Your torque is what you are really after, thats what does the work. The Horsepower is how fast it can do the work.
Tabora and O.P. should be able to give you a few good tips on adjusting the throttle cable, they have a few secrets with them. They are very easy to adjust as long as it is done properly with the nut adjusters on the cable barrel where it attaches to the throttle control.
You need a little bit of freeplay in the cable, but not too much. If you don't have any freeplay, your engine speed will change when the handlebars flex a little bit when operating the machine, and it can cause a little bit of cable bind or movement, causing a slight speed change, they are sensitive.

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post #20 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST1100A View Post
One other thing, make sure you are using only low octane gas, do not use high octane in a Honda engine.
They are designed to run on regular. The lower octane has a faster more complete burn to it when ignited in the cylinder, therefore pushing the piston down harder when it is ignited.
Honda engines are designed for the regular gas with low octane by not having a lot of ignition timing advance that is required with using high octane fuel with its slower burn rate in the cylinder when ignited.
The high octane, or premium fuel will give harder starting and a rougher idle because it isn't burning to full capacity when ignited before the exhaust valve opens.
You will actually loose power and performance, and fuel milage with premium/high octane fuel. You don't get the complete burn out of it before it is exhausted, it is still finishing up its burn when the valve opens and is being dumped into the muffler. The low/regular gas has burned more completely before the exhaust valve opens, therefore pushing the piston down even harder thus creating more power on the power stroke.
I worked with the Honda engineers years ago when we studied this and helped with the development of some engine characteristics. That is why on a lot of the newer engines with high compression you can use regular gas in them, they were developed and designed for it with a lot of changes in the combustion chambers to deter "knocking" or piston knock, which has been greatly eliminated now in most of the newer engines.
Plus, you will save money by being able to use the lesser expensive regular gas instead of having to have to use premium octane gas.
Very good to know. I did put fresh low octane in the tank since I believe the owners manual said to use 86 octane.
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