Bought an HS1132 - Carburetor and Maintenance - Page 3 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #21 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tabora View Post
[
Well, the point is that if you are at sea level and the jet is a high altitude one, you would experience a lean condition that would require choke to run smoothly. The standard jets were 92, 95 or 98. At sea level, you want a 98.
I took it out and inspected it. It is indeed a 98 jet.
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post #22 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 10:33 AM
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I took it out and inspected it. It is indeed a 98 jet.
it's funny that this has happened to you because I am working on friends older 1991 Honda HS828 with just about the same problem. it runs fine at idle and to almost full throttle but starts sputtering just a little at full throttle. I inspected choke at full throttle and it is fully open. Most times the choke is partially closed when this happens so the choke has to be adjusted. I cleaned it thoroughly while in frame which works most times. After 2 tries it stayed the same.............

so I am taking it off and apart and it's going into the ultrasonic cleaner.

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post #23 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 10:50 AM
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All I know is that I have an older Toro that behaves like this .. . .runs flawlessly in the winter, but stumbles in the summer. Air density does change with temp, and is lower when warm, tending to make mixtures vary, so it's not impossible that the guy is correct . . .
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post #24 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
it's funny that this has happened to you because I am working on friends older 1991 Honda HS828 with just about the same problem. it runs fine at idle and to almost full throttle but starts sputtering just a little at full throttle. I inspected choke at full throttle and it is fully open. Most times the choke is partially closed when this happens so the choke has to be adjusted. I cleaned it thoroughly while in frame which works most times. After 2 tries it stayed the same.............

so I am taking it off and apart and it's going into the ultrasonic cleaner.
I wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner. Maybe I’ll search craigslist for a cheap one. I’m running at half choke all the time. Fully open and fully closed has the same effect which kills the engine. I’m going to take the air shroud off and observe the choke as I run it to see exactly what it’s doing. Do you think maybe I have a vacuum leak somewhere so I’m getting too much air? I don’t feel comfortable spraying brake cleaner around a running engine to check for an air leak near the intake of the carburetor
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post #25 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 11:24 AM
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Make sure you have the carb bolted on tight, the air shroud holds the carb to the engine when it is bolted on tight. Also put the whole air cleaner assembly on, it is designed to give a little bit of air restriction to the system, otherwise you will have a "Lean" condition. They don't use an air filter element because they don't want icing in an element, a paper filter can freeze up with ice in the winter with cold temps.
There are dust baffles inside of the air filter housing that swirl out the dust particles centrifugally, and that adds the needed restriction when running the engine. If you are running it without the cover on, you will have a slight "Lean" condition. Try that to see if it makes a little bit of a difference.
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post #26 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
it's funny that this has happened to you because I am working on friends older 1991 Honda HS828 with just about the same problem. it runs fine at idle and to almost full throttle but starts sputtering just a little at full throttle. I inspected choke at full throttle and it is fully open. Most times the choke is partially closed when this happens so the choke has to be adjusted. I cleaned it thoroughly while in frame which works most times. After 2 tries it stayed the same.............

so I am taking it off and apart and it's going into the ultrasonic cleaner.
If it is not running under a load, but running unloaded at full throttle, most of its fuel is coming from the slow jet, the throttle plate isn't open that far, so it is running a bit lean. When it is under a load, the governor takes over and opens the throttle plate further, thus taking more fuel from the main jet circuit, enriching it up a bit to do away with the stumble.
A possibility. Does it stumble under a load?
The choke is spring loaded on the choke shaft, at an unloaded speed with the main throttle plate not open that far, the air drawn in might not be enough to fully open the spring loaded choke plate all the way. When the engine is working under a load and the throttle plate is opened further, allowing more air in to the engine, that will open the choke plate further.
It kind of does that to automatically enrichen itself at the moment and readjusts when needed to lean itself accordingly when the throttle plate opens further under a load.
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post #27 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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I have been running it with the air box on and everything fully assembled and tight. I did just see a video where a guy noticed his gas flow would pretty much stop when the gas cap on the tank was on and would flow nicely once off. He inspected the gas cap to find that the vent holes were blocked. I did drain the gas and had the gas cap off when I did this just like you'd take the oil cap off a car when changing the oil for better flow. So I will check that out and see if it makes a difference at all. I'll keep working at this thing until its right and hopefully when I find the solution it will help someone else on here with the same problem. Thanks again to everyone for the input, its been very helpful.
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post #28 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 02:49 PM
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I have been running it with the air box on and everything fully assembled and tight. I did just see a video where a guy noticed his gas flow would pretty much stop when the gas cap on the tank was on and would flow nicely once off. He inspected the gas cap to find that the vent holes were blocked. I did drain the gas and had the gas cap off when I did this just like you'd take the oil cap off a car when changing the oil for better flow. So I will check that out and see if it makes a difference at all. I'll keep working at this thing until its right and hopefully when I find the solution it will help someone else on here with the same problem. Thanks again to everyone for the input, its been very helpful.
Yes check your cap next, I have seen them go bad with a blocked vent. When that happens, it will usually stall out like it ran out of gas, it will surge first as it is starving for fuel, but check it.
Fill the tank and drain it while leaving the cap on and tight, watch the fuel flow, it it seems to stop and wait for air to get sucked back up into the tube and tank before the fuel flows again, then you know you have a problem with the cap vent.
Good luck and let us know how you make out with it.
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post #29 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 02:54 PM
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I wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner. Maybe Iíll search craigslist for a cheap one. Iím running at half choke all the time. Fully open and fully closed has the same effect which kills the engine. Iím going to take the air shroud off and observe the choke as I run it to see exactly what itís doing. Do you think maybe I have a vacuum leak somewhere so Iím getting too much air? I donít feel comfortable spraying brake cleaner around a running engine to check for an air leak near the intake of the carburetor
after a couple sessions in cleaner it is running perfect. I did have to readjust the choke. with the air shroud off I noticed that the choke wasn't opening up all the way from choke position to fast throttle. it ended up being the choke arm needed to be pulled up a little to the horizontal position as it should be and I adjusted it according to shop manual directions. that shop manual will save you beaucoup time .

to check air leak, correct me if wrong, you spray carb cleaner around where the carb connects to engine and where it connects to shroud. if the engine changes speed you may need a new gasket or that part between carb and shroud. ( dementia is not letting me remember name )

I always keep a large towel and fire extinguisher around when working to cover/douse any fire outbreak. it happened once. or it will happen if not prepared ; some kind of law of the universe.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #30 of 42 Old 09-11-2019, 03:28 PM
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after a couple sessions in cleaner it is running perfect. I did have to readjust the choke. with the air shroud off I noticed that the choke wasn't opening up all the way from choke position to fast throttle. it ended up being the choke arm needed to be pulled up a little to the horizontal position as it should be and I adjusted it according to shop manual directions. that shop manual will save you beaucoup time .

to check air leak, correct me if wrong, you spray carb cleaner around where the carb connects to engine and where it connects to shroud. if the engine changes speed you may need a new gasket or that part between carb and shroud. ( dementia is not letting me remember name )

I always keep a large towel and fire extinguisher around when working to cover/douse any fire outbreak. it happened once. or it will happen if not prepared ; some kind of law of the universe.
That black plastic piece is called the carb insulator. Good you got it working properly, and good thing with the fire extinguisher nearby. It can happen when you least expect it.
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