Bought an HS1132 - Carburetor and Maintenance - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Bought an HS1132 - Carburetor and Maintenance

Hi all. My name is Matt, I am new to the forum. I've been working on small engines and snowblowers for probably 15 years now (started at 13). I have a fleet of vintage snowblowers and last winter my Bobcat by Wisconsin Marine crapped out on me. I wanted something reliable and that would throw anything in its path. The Honda is where all my research brought me. Yesterday, I picked up a 14 year old Honda HS1132 with tracks for $800 and I am very excited to use it this winter.

Today I spent the day going through the machine. The owner told me he never had an issue with it and has only changed one shear pin, the gas tank and the carburetor since he bought it. The gas tank and carburetor are original Honda parts. He changed them because he left a tank of gas in the tank and it rusted it out so he replaced it. I checked the oil which was clean and new, the auger gear box oil and the hydrostatic transmission fluid. All was right where it should be. The machine moves great and everything works. That being said, I could not get the engine to run on full open choke.

I was told by the owner that getting the machine to run in the summer was more difficult because it was built to run in the cold weather. So when I checked it out, he started it and ran it (not at full throttle) with the choke about halfway open. Today I started it and let it run low and slow for a while before opening the choke all the way. Once I opened the choke, the RPMs dropped and the engine idled nicely. I raised the throttle slowly and the engine started to run rough and surge. I could not get the engine to run on full throttle with a fully opened choke. I wasn't buying that the engine is tuned for cold weather running so I took the carburetor off and apart and cleaned it thoroughly. Glad I did because I found a mouse nest made of wall insulation stuffed under the gas tank which I also cleaned out.

After I cleaned the carb I put it back together (without the air shroud) and started it. I was having the same problem where I cant get the choke fully opened while running. And now I can't get it fully opened at all at any throttle setting. There were a few backfire pops and I did see a small flame pop out of the intake. Can anyone tell me what might be going on? Or is this thing really designed to run full open choke in cold weather only?

My other question is how to adjust the cables. The throttle I noticed won't hold the engine at full open throttle while running so I'm assuming I need to adjust the cable for this? Can anyone tell me the correct procedure? Also, when I engage the drive clutch and then the auger clutch, the auger clutch does not stay engaged if I let me hand off of it. Is this also a cable adjustment?

Other than that, all I plan to do is sand and repaint the inner chute as well as the impeller housing which is not rusty but is definitely not smooth anymore. I also removed the shear pins from the auger gear box to the augers to make sure that the augers spin freely and weren't ceased to the shaft. I was worried that if they were, I could hit something and break the gear box because the augers were ceased onto the shaft from the gearbox. Both sides spun nice and freely.

Thanks in advance to anyone who responds to my post, I look forward to hearing from you all and seeing this machine throw in the winter!

Last edited by darco813; 09-09-2019 at 07:17 PM.
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post #2 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 07:35 PM
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I have a 13hp Honda Push Blower that had carb Issues. I got a Repop Carb Cheap from https://www.everestpartssupplies.com/ I think it was under $30 IIRC. Worked Great for Me. That's the Route I would Go.
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post #3 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 07:41 PM
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Probably not what you want to hear, but with the price you paid, you might have $50 left over to purchase the factory repair manual. I understand that it is very informative.

But, sounds like the carb may still have some junk in one of the passages.
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post #4 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. I did just watch a video of cleaning these carbs and I didn't take apart any of the low idle pieces and clean those areas so I think I am going to try again tomorrow and see if I can get better results.
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post #5 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I did just watch a video of cleaning these carbs and I didn't take apart any of the low idle pieces and clean those areas so I think I am going to try again tomorrow and see if I can get better results.
you can actually clean out the carb very well while keeping it in frame. take the air control box off by taking off 2 mounting nuts. take out pilot jet and make sure that passage is clean and the jet. also very important check that tiny O-ring on pilot/idle jet. If its flat or damaged then needs replacement. take bowl and sentiment cap off. you can unscrew main jet and emulsion tube out if necessary. then spray thru all passages and then follow up with compressed air if you have. before i had a compressor I used to use compressed air in the cans from Costco that people use for computers etc. Honda on You-Tube has an excellent video on this.

By the way , after you installed the carb and linkages did you check the choke plate before putting air box back on? I have run into the problem you are having several times and have found that the choke needed adjusting.in some cases Either the plate was not closing all the way or not opening all the way. Of course the main jet or pilot jet or a carb passage could be partially clogged. almost always the case if you have to use a little choke to have it run right.

another thing. $800 for an 1132 is a steal. yes. I would buy the Honda shop manual from Honda for a little under 50 bucks. Its worth it's weight in gold and has step by step procedures for all maintenance procedures.

how is that carb gasket ? How is the seal? you can check by running engine and spraying carb cleaner around carb area. if the engine changes then you have a leak. I'd rather rebuild/clean a OEM Honda carb which are very well made than replace with an aftermarket carb.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #6 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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thanks orangputeh. I will take it apart again tomorrow and check all of those things. The gaskets looked okay but I will give them another look over tomorrow. I am used to working on Briggs engines and know those well. I think cleaning a Honda carb is a little more involved than cleaning a Briggs carb although it is much easier to get to and remove the Honda than the Briggs. I'll definitely look into getting the shop manual. I feel confident in my ability to perform the repairs so having the shop manual should be pretty invaluable for me.
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post #7 of 42 Old 09-09-2019, 09:15 PM
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thanks orangputeh. I will take it apart again tomorrow and check all of those things. The gaskets looked okay but I will give them another look over tomorrow. I am used to working on Briggs engines and know those well. I think cleaning a Honda carb is a little more involved than cleaning a Briggs carb although it is much easier to get to and remove the Honda than the Briggs. I'll definitely look into getting the shop manual. I feel confident in my ability to perform the repairs so having the shop manual should be pretty invaluable for me.
on your other q...the auger handle not staying locked down. you can remove that side cover right below handle to observe locking mechanism. sometimes it needs to be cleaned out. also the adjustment is those 2 nuts on side . will look for picture.

1. shows locking mechanism with small side cover off

2. shows 2 adjusting nuts at about 1 oclock position at top right.

most of the time it just needs to be cleaned and/or lubricated. usually easy fix.
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post #8 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 01:55 AM
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Make sure your valve clearance is set properly, that can cause a spit back through your carb if the intake is too tight on clearance or the exhaust is loose. Also to set the choke plate there is a screw to adjust the choke setting on top of the motor near where the throttle cable is attached. Also make sure your main jet is not clogged and your float height is set correctly, if it is too low, you will have a lean condition where it is starving for fuel at high speed or under a load.
Valve clearance usually gets tight as the valve face wears into the valve seat, more than a valve will get loose with too much clearance, but they can loosen up if an adjuster or stud backs out of the head.
If your pilot jet is clogged it will not idle properly if at all, and will cause the engine to surge at high speed without a load on it.
A lot of times just spraying carb cleaner in the main jet will not clean it enough, you will need a wire to pass through it to remove any sulfation buildup that carb cleaner liquid doesn't remove.
You can buy the wire jet cleaner tool from Honda, but they are expensive. They are special tools that wont ream out or damage the venturi built into the jets if the proper wire size is used. You get ten different size wires in the tool, and they are all numbered for what size jet you are to use them on. There is a chart on the tool that tells you what wire to use with whatever number size jet you are working with. The jet number is engraved on the carb fuel jet on Honda engines.
Do not use welding tip cleaner wires with the ridges in them, you will ruin a jet with them because they will ream out the venturi built into the jet, then you will have to replace the jet. The Honda tool is specially sized for the jets with a smooth wire to prevent damage.

Last edited by ST1100A; 09-11-2019 at 12:06 AM.
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post #9 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 01:59 AM
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Hey Orangeputeh, good you told him about that lock for the levers, they get stuck a lot and wont lock in.
I always put a little bit of Artic Grease on them to help lube them and prevent corrosion to keep that little lock cam from sticking.
That is a very common problem with them when they are not serviced.
He got that for a Steal at that price.
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post #10 of 42 Old 09-10-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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So I played with the adjustments for the clutch engage mechanisms and now the drive does lock when the auger is engaged. So thanks for that! My next task is taking off the carb again and this time taking out the low idle needle and the area below the low throttle set screw and cleaning those areas as well as the main jet again. The gaskets look good. Thanks again to everyone for the help so far!
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