I am thinking about replacing my toothed auger with a smooth edge auger.
Can anyone tell me the part no. of an auger that will fit?
The model is HS1132TAS/A. The part no. for a toothed auger is 72410-V03-010
We have had weird textured, sticky snow the last few year that gets caught in the auger and turns it into a solid drum of snow. I believe it is because it gets held up by the teeth.
I have a 24" Ariens with smooth edged auger and it does not have this problem.
Some of the teeth on my Honda are bent inward (from hitting the lumps in my lumpy drive) I am going to try straightening those to see if it helps.
Those "Saw Tooth" on the auger are designed to cut into the snow and ice to break it up into smaller chunks quicker, plus the "End of Driveway" chunks.
If you have a smooth auger, it won't cut/rip into the snow to break it up and can cause clogging and they wont work as fast breaking up the snow before it gets into the blower part so it can be discharged.
You wouldn't be happy with the performance with a smooth edge auger.
I thought most of the smooth edge Honda augers were the result of neglect.
Search the forums here for "shoeless Honda".
Several have been found with all the teeth simply ground off along with the scraper bar and the sides of the bucket.
You are exactly right dbert, those smooth tooth augers are worn out from the neglect of adjusting the auger skid shoes and the scraper bar.
You dont want the auger to touch the ground, it has to be up away from the ground. Those teeth are only to break up the snow so it goes into the blower part a lot easier.
If your machine has the serrated augers, leave them alone, as they serve a purpose, as already mentioned.
What works for me for proper bucket height, thus keeping the augers off the ground, is this:
* Find a level surface and loosen the skids
* bring the cutting edge bar down to the same level as the side of the buckets and tighten.
* place a wooden yardstick or a couple paint stirrers under the cutting edge.
* now bring down your skids and tighten.
you may need to coat the augers and housing with fluid film or other substance that would prevent the snow from sticking. also may want to install impeller kit. more throwing power and less clogging.
make sure your fast throttle is set at 3600 RPM +/- 150. I see a lot of Honda's where it is set at around 3100-3200 for some reason. That is about a 15% loss in power right there.
My interpretation of the invention, and usefulness, of serrated augers:
Several years ago at a design meeting of snowblower manufacturer X:
(not sure who it was..doesnt matter! :wink:
Designer 1: "hey, maybe serrated augers would be cool"
Designer 2: "but why? snowblowers have worked fine without them for 40 years..they arent really needed"
Designer 1: "yeah, but they look cool, and we can tell consumers they are "better" and people are dumb enough to believe it, and it might give a tiny sales advantage this year, until next year, when everyone copies the idea"
Designer 2: "ok..sure, why not"
At the store:
salesman - "look at this new model! it has serrated augers! obviously its SO much better than these other models that have "old fashioned" plain augers!
customer - "im convinced! I will buy this one because its obviously "better"
Other manufacturers - "uh oh..there is a new pointless fad feature that no one needs, doesnt do anything really, but people are guillable enough to think its "better"..so we better do it too or suffer decreased sales"
soon: all snowblowers have serrated augers..
(repeat scenario with electric chute controls and other "improvements")
how often is a snowblower used on packed snow and ice? never really..
"regular" augers have been fine for 50 years..serrated augers are just a pointless gimmick IMO..
Iv'e been using my "smooth" augured 1971 Ariens in the Great Lakes snow belt of Western NY for a decade now..no problems at all.
It eats easily into everything I have ever asked of it, even thick heavy EOD snow.
IMO, either serrated or non-serrated works just fine, in reality is likely no real difference between the two.
although in Tim's case, he might have conditions where the smooth auger would be better..
(and some might have conditions where the serrated auger gives a slight advantage)
but overall, 95% of the time, its likely a wash, both work equally well.
If you *can* easily and cheaply replace serrated augers with smooth, I would say "got for it"..
sounds like it would perhaps solve your particular issue..although..sticky wet snow also sticks to smooth augers..
I am with you sscotsman. I have owned this HS 1132 since it was new in 2005 and I don’t think I have ever needed those saw teeth. I only ever notice them for hitting the lumps in the pavement and getting bent.
The problem with the sticky snow turning the primary auger into a drum of snow started happening about 3 years ago. As I said, I have a 7 hp Ariens with smooth edge auger that throws the same snow just fine. But my drive is too big to be using a 7 hp snowblower.
I feel like it is a different kind of snow than we used to get, but who knows. I mildly envy cultures that have different names for different kinds of snow.
It may be that enough of the saw teeth of the Honda are now bent inward that, between the sticky snow and bent teeth the momentum of the primary is not enough to “throw” the snow out to the secondary.
I will take the augers off and straight out the bent teeth. I will post an update sometime this winter.
In the meanwhile ….. no one knows of a 32 inch Honda model that the put smooth edge augers on?
just dont adjust skid shoes and your augers will be ground down. see it all the time. BTW it will make things worse but what do I know. Have only worked on about 200 Honda's in the ;last several years.
all you have to do is not adjust your scraper bar and skid shoes and the auger teeth will be ground down naturally by hitting the pavement. see it all the time and BTW it will not help. it makes things worse but what do I know. i have only worked on about 200 honda's in the last several years.
Are you sure it's the auger teeth that are the problem and not the nature of the snow / temperatures combined with possible chute issues that are causing auger blockage?
Take a look at this picture. It shows an auger from a Honda 1332 (I know yours is an 1132) with the auger solid with snow. This turned out to be a problem with the chute, with the snow backing up into the auger drum.
Your other snowblower doesn't have the same problem as your Honda with the same snow but that could be due to differences in the way it expels the snow via the chute and not to do with the auger - in the same way that some snowblowers will need an impeller modification kit and others will not, given the same snow conditions.
I'm just offereing a different angle to consider. Take a look at the video from which the still comes and see what you think.
My antique Honda HS 50 came with a smooth auger, as did all Honda snowblowers decades ago. The teeth are for breaking up ice, which my new machine does very well.
I got the dreaded "solid cylinder of snow" all the time with a smooth auger. Any auger will pack up if the snow is damp and the temperature is right.
Car wax, fluid film, Ariens Snow Jet Spray, all help but none are foolproof.
I've considered having my auger done in a slick ceramic coating called Cerakote. Gunsmiths use it. It is teflon slick, durable, and just might do the trick. But it is heat cured and would be expensive for parts this big. Not really a DIY application.
Skunky, as I said in my posts, my impression is that it is the nature of the snow combined with a problem with the auger. Some of the saw teeth have been bent inward, I am going to straighten out those bent teeth, make sure the engine is running at the RPMs recommended above, hopefully that helps.
I owned this machine for about 15 years before this problem cropped up.
I don't think I ever had to clean out the chute as you did in your video but I will pay attention to that if I have the problem this winter.
That's not me in the video btw. I have a much higher pitch voice than that! Clue - I'm not male
Good luck with working it out.
* Do you think you might be seeing slightly more water content in your snow IE more slush / ice due to warmer / less cold temperatures??
* If your engine / belt isn't working efficiently it may be causing the impeller to rotate less efficiently causing back ups? Impeller kit? Double check engine power at the belts to make sure all adjusted as it should be.
Granted the old Toro's had a drum to go with those smooth teeth but it took no prisoners snow processing wise. Worked better in slushy snow, kind of like a pump. I still miss that part.
With all due respect this is the funniest thing I have read in awhile....
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