Honda HS828K1 WA - Belts and things - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 27 Old 11-25-2019, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Honda HS828K1 WA - Belts and things

Hi All,

Looking for a quick turnaround on this if possible - we are supposed to get 8 inches of snow on Sunday..

I have a 1994 Honda HS828K1 WA that I just bought in September for about $400. When we went to see/inspect/buy, the auger spun with no issues.

Got the snowblower all put back together (auger gearbox shaft needed to be replaced) and fired it up. Ran great and wanted to test my work. So, I depressed the auger handle and was greeted with squealing, a spark, and lots of white smoke.

I'm wondering if I put the center gear back incorrectly in the auger gearbox.. or if it's something to do with the belts now?
I'm thinking belts as the center gear teeth always oriented the same way no matter which way I put it in.

I have not snapped the impeller shear bolt yet so I'm not sure what to do. I was not able to verify if the auger actually spun or not as the smoke and squealing was immediate.

If I get the new belts before Thursday, should I be able to get in there and replace the belt only by taking off the belt cover or should I take off the entire auger housing?

Talk me through this, before I throw this snowblower up on Craigslist for $400 as is and buy a new Cub cadet.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 12:04 AM
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Not sure how the Hondas work but on most there is a brake that gets applied automatically when you let go of the auger lever. This stops the rotation almost immediately so nobody gets hurt. It's possible that you mounted the belt around the outside of this brake but when you depress the auger lever to activate the augers it'll squeeze the brake even harder onto the pulley instead of it backing off. This may be the noise you describe.
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post #3 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by SilentHatch View Post
I'm wondering if I put the center gear back incorrectly in the auger gearbox.. or if it's something to do with the belts now?
Hi James, It's easy to get the auger brake and belt put back together incorrectly. You need to keep the auger control lever squeezed when reinstalling the auger housing. Use a zip tie or bungee or put a glove on over the depressed handle to keep it down.
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If I get the new belts before Thursday, should I be able to get in there and replace the belt only by taking off the belt cover or should I take off the entire auger housing?
You need to take the auger housing back off. There are belt guides for the auger belt that you have to remove/replace to install the auger belt on the housing/lower pulley.


Andy

Last edited by tabora; 11-26-2019 at 02:32 AM.
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post #4 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Hi @all3939 and @tabora (Andy),

I never took the auger housing off, just the plastic cover up top, and when I put the impeller back in, initially the rubber flaps (impeller kit) were on. Then I added the shear bolt, etc.

Tested and got the spark and smoke so I stopped and removed the impeller kit until I fix that.

Could I have tightened my auger system too much?

That's the only thing I changed. Looking to see if @ST1100A has some input here as well
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post #5 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentHatch View Post
Hi @all3939 and @tabora (Andy),

I never took the auger housing off, just the plastic cover up top, and when I put the impeller back in, initially the rubber flaps (impeller kit) were on. Then I added the shear bolt, etc.

Tested and got the spark and smoke so I stopped and removed the impeller kit until I fix that.

Could I have tightened my auger system too much?

That's the only thing I changed. Looking to see if @ST1100A has some input here as well
it's hard to answer your question without a video. it could be the rubber paddles on your impeller fans were too tight. can you turn the impeller by hand? I always spray some dawn dish soap and water mix before breaking in new rubber inserts. once broken in they shouldn't even rub against housing but make almost a complete seal.

also look under the machine by putting the machine back on it's handlebars and make sure the auger brake is not scraping on the belt pulley wheel. I see this once in away especially if the auger housing ( i know you did not remove ) .

you don't have to remove housing just to replace a drive belt but you do for the auger belt. while you're at it replace the impeller bearing. i remove the augers and impeller before pulling and replacing housing. It's so much easier that way and takes very little extra time ( after you have done it a bunch of times )

on replacing the bucket you do have to make sure the brake is out of the way. watch you-tube video on replacing belts on a honda hs55. same thing for 828. If I were you I'd keep working on the 828. it's a good machine.

you'll get it. if you can rebuild an auger gearbox you can do just about anything on this snowblower.

"It Feels Like Beer O'Clock "
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post #6 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
it's hard to answer your question without a video. it could be the rubber paddles on your impeller fans were too tight. can you turn the impeller by hand? I always spray some dawn dish soap and water mix before breaking in new rubber inserts. once broken in they shouldn't even rub against housing but make almost a complete seal.

also look under the machine by putting the machine back on it's handlebars and make sure the auger brake is not scraping on the belt pulley wheel. I see this once in away especially if the auger housing ( i know you did not remove ) .

you don't have to remove housing just to replace a drive belt but you do for the auger belt. while you're at it replace the impeller bearing. i remove the augers and impeller before pulling and replacing housing. It's so much easier that way and takes very little extra time ( after you have done it a bunch of times )

on replacing the bucket you do have to make sure the brake is out of the way. watch you-tube video on replacing belts on a honda hs55. same thing for 828. If I were you I'd keep working on the 828. it's a good machine.

you'll get it. if you can rebuild an auger gearbox you can do just about anything on this snowblower.

I took the impeller rubber off, but I wonder if I smoked out the bearing? I did grease all around the housing on the inside (surrounding the impeller) I'm not at home but can try to take a video later tonight.

I had it tilted back last night and silly me forgot to turn off the fuel valve so it leaked fuel everywhere.. it won't leak again if I do this (as long as the fuel is off), correct?

I know you're saying replace the impeller bearing, so I ordered the belts last night (never a bad idea to have extra belts on-hand), should I call boats.net and have them send out the bearing, too?

I had a bear of a time lining up the impeller shear pin hole with the impeller shaft; I think tonight I want to try just loosening up some of the auger system and seeing if that frees it up.. I'm thinking the screws that go into the ends of the augers (from the outside of the housing) are too tight and aren't allowing the auger to spin on those bearings?

Not opposed to taking the whole housing off, would just like to see if it's something I can fix easily.





here's a picture of the parts diagram from boats
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Last edited by SilentHatch; 11-26-2019 at 03:54 PM.
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post #7 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a quick video, sorry for the bad camera angle, trying to do it all at once. @orangputeh @tabora

Auger required some real force to spin, like lift up on housing and use my foot to push down to spin it.


Took the rearmost shear pin out, spins a lot easier now...

Tips?

Soccer tonight so won't be able to do anything but appreciate any feedback.


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post #8 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SilentHatch View Post
Here's a quick video, sorry for the bad camera angle, trying to do it all at once. @orangputeh @tabora

Auger required some real force to spin, like lift up on housing and use my foot to push down to spin it.


Took the rearmost shear pin out, spins a lot easier now...

Tips?

Soccer tonight so won't be able to do anything but appreciate any feedback.


https://youtu.be/3-lV9ynE6lk


Here's part 2 where I have the impeller shear pin removed and it just dies as I engage.. could it be off-level?

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post #9 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 08:05 PM
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I would do the following:
Split the tractor and the bucket and isolate where your issue is. Everything else is all guess and hearsay. When apart spin the impeller pulley by hand to see what it feels like.

A) It should be pretty smooth turning. If it looks right then the issue is/was belt related rubbing on something.

B) If it isn't and you feel resistance you'll need to dig further into the bucket to see if it is the gearbox or something else.
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post #10 of 27 Old 11-26-2019, 08:17 PM
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Here's part 2 where I have the impeller shear pin removed and it just dies as I engage.. could it be off-level?
James, you had the entire auger/impeller assembly out, and it's virtually impossible (or at least very, very difficult) to reassemble correctly without having the auger housing off the blower frame. There are 2 belt guides on the bottom of the auger housing that retain the belt on the lower pulley and you may have the belt on the wrong side of them, or not interacting properly with the brake/tensioner as previously discussed. It only takes 10 bolts (3 on each side and 2 top and bottom) to remove the housing, and all will become obvious. Watch this video to see what to expect in there:

Last edited by tabora; 11-26-2019 at 08:36 PM.
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