Honda 928 electric chute not working - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-19-2013, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Honda 928 electric chute not working

The electric chute on my Honda 928 will go up and down but will not go from side to side. Suggestions on what to look for?
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-19-2013, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RParsons View Post
The electric chute on my Honda 928 will go up and down but will not go from side to side. Suggestions on what to look for?
Are you in Canada? I know USA-spec HS928 models have a manual chute crank. You may need to find a Honda dealer there with service materials who can help:

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post #3 of 13 Old 12-06-2013, 01:36 PM
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I have a HS928 now going into its second season. It is equipped with a manual crank to move the chute from side to side, and occasionally, the chute will freeze so the crank will not move it.

This happened just yesterday, and I had to loosen the three bolts that attach the chute to the machine, free it up and then retighten the bolts.

Is there a lube I can use to prevent this from happening?
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-08-2013, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RParsons View Post
The electric chute on my Honda 928 will go up and down but will not go from side to side. Suggestions on what to look for?
I had the same problem last week. You do not need to go to the dealer to fix it. If you have few tools, you will be able to remove all the pieces to reach the snowblower chute actuator and also dismantle the 12v electric motor from the actuator. The problem is simply because the actuator is not seal anymore and your actuator is probably full of water. Try to figure out to remove the actuator which is not very complicated.
1-Remove the red hood from the top of the snowblower. 4 screws to unscrew and the light bolt to unbolt and then gently pull out the hood.

2- Remove the 3 relays from the steel support. It is easy, this is the piece with rubber cover. just pull them out with your hand.

3- Remove the chute by unscrewing two bolts in front and two nuts in the back. Be carefull, not to lose the two spacers in the front and in the back where the bolts and the nuts were located. This spacers are located in a black plastic body.

4- Disconnect the actuator electric wire supply. Only press on the top of the white connector and pull out on both side.

5- There are 3 nuts to remove in order to detach the actuator from its stand. Two in the front and one in the back on the strap and driven pulley side.

6-Now you should have the actuator in your hand.

7-Remove the motor cap by unscrewing the two screws. Make a mark with a felt pen on the motor cap and gear case to make sure you will put the cap back at the same location, otherwise your motor will turn on the wrong side. Now you need to remove the cap by pulling it out. Be careful, because when you going to do that, you will also remove the motor rotor and the two little carbon brush springs may fall and be lost. Also, when you remove the cap, oily water will fall on the floor, thus to this job over a pan.

8- Now that you remove the motor and you set all you screws and springs aside, you need to dry out out the parts. Remove the motor rotor from the motor cap by pulling it out with your hand. It's easy. The is a ball at the end of the rotor shaft, make sure to not lose it. Use a compressor to dry the part ( inside of motor cap, the rotor, and the gear case).

9-On the back of the gear case there is a cap that you need to remove. unscrew the 3 screws. Water should come out. Dry the inside.

10- I think the water come from the gear shaft hole. So, to avoid that water accumulate in the gear case, I drill 3/16" hole in the gear case cap to continuously drain the gear case. This hole facing down will help draining water by gravity. You will notice, that they put a water draining hose near the motor, but this hose is located on the top instead of the bottom. I think this is an engineering design mistake.

11- replace the gear case cover after drilling the draining hole. Add some grease inside of the gear case by the rotor shaft hole. Do not put any grease at the carbon brush location.

12- Carefully reinstall the carbon brush springs, and correctly (check the curve on the face) insert the carbon brush in the way. You will need to find a way to maintain the brush in place before inserting the motor rotor in the gear case. Be careful, do not damage the brush and the motor rotor with tools.

13- Insert the motor rotor in the gear case. Make sure the brushes are well located and the can freely move in their way. Use a string to maintain the rotor in place after inserting it to the gear case. Place a fine string on one side of the gear case, use your thumb to press the string against the gear case. Pass the other end of the string over the rotor poles and bring this end on the other side of the gear case. Maintain this string end against the gear case with the index finger of the same hand maintaining the other string end.

14- Insert the motor cap over the rotor by maintaining a good pressure on the string to avoid rotor displacement. When the cap is almost at its place remove the string by pulling it out from one end. Now the cap is in place, put back the two screws.

15- Reconnect the 12v wire to the actuator and make a trial. You only have to turn the key, no need to start your snowblower. If it doens't work remove the motor cap again and make sure everything is ok. When a repair mine, I need to do it twice before it works.

Don't worry, it is easy and fun.

Good luck.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-08-2013, 12:13 PM
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See dirac007 message post 1 dec.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-08-2013, 12:51 PM
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Nice tutorial dirac007, welcome to the forum!


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post #7 of 13 Old 01-31-2018, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirac007 View Post
I had the same problem last week. You do not need to go to the dealer to fix it. If you have few tools, you will be able to remove all the pieces to reach the snowblower chute actuator and also dismantle the 12v electric motor from the actuator. The problem is simply because the actuator is not seal anymore and your actuator is probably full of water. Try to figure out to remove the actuator which is not very complicated.
1-Remove the red hood from the top of the snowblower. 4 screws to unscrew and the light bolt to unbolt and then gently pull out the hood.

2- Remove the 3 relays from the steel support. It is easy, this is the piece with rubber cover. just pull them out with your hand.

3- Remove the chute by unscrewing two bolts in front and two nuts in the back. Be carefull, not to lose the two spacers in the front and in the back where the bolts and the nuts were located. This spacers are located in a black plastic body.

4- Disconnect the actuator electric wire supply. Only press on the top of the white connector and pull out on both side.

5- There are 3 nuts to remove in order to detach the actuator from its stand. Two in the front and one in the back on the strap and driven pulley side.

6-Now you should have the actuator in your hand.

7-Remove the motor cap by unscrewing the two screws. Make a mark with a felt pen on the motor cap and gear case to make sure you will put the cap back at the same location, otherwise your motor will turn on the wrong side. Now you need to remove the cap by pulling it out. Be careful, because when you going to do that, you will also remove the motor rotor and the two little carbon brush springs may fall and be lost. Also, when you remove the cap, oily water will fall on the floor, thus to this job over a pan.

8- Now that you remove the motor and you set all you screws and springs aside, you need to dry out out the parts. Remove the motor rotor from the motor cap by pulling it out with your hand. It's easy. The is a ball at the end of the rotor shaft, make sure to not lose it. Use a compressor to dry the part ( inside of motor cap, the rotor, and the gear case).

9-On the back of the gear case there is a cap that you need to remove. unscrew the 3 screws. Water should come out. Dry the inside.

10- I think the water come from the gear shaft hole. So, to avoid that water accumulate in the gear case, I drill 3/16" hole in the gear case cap to continuously drain the gear case. This hole facing down will help draining water by gravity. You will notice, that they put a water draining hose near the motor, but this hose is located on the top instead of the bottom. I think this is an engineering design mistake.

11- replace the gear case cover after drilling the draining hole. Add some grease inside of the gear case by the rotor shaft hole. Do not put any grease at the carbon brush location.

12- Carefully reinstall the carbon brush springs, and correctly (check the curve on the face) insert the carbon brush in the way. You will need to find a way to maintain the brush in place before inserting the motor rotor in the gear case. Be careful, do not damage the brush and the motor rotor with tools.

13- Insert the motor rotor in the gear case. Make sure the brushes are well located and the can freely move in their way. Use a string to maintain the rotor in place after inserting it to the gear case. Place a fine string on one side of the gear case, use your thumb to press the string against the gear case. Pass the other end of the string over the rotor poles and bring this end on the other side of the gear case. Maintain this string end against the gear case with the index finger of the same hand maintaining the other string end.

14- Insert the motor cap over the rotor by maintaining a good pressure on the string to avoid rotor displacement. When the cap is almost at its place remove the string by pulling it out from one end. Now the cap is in place, put back the two screws.

15- Reconnect the 12v wire to the actuator and make a trial. You only have to turn the key, no need to start your snowblower. If it doens't work remove the motor cap again and make sure everything is ok. When a repair mine, I need to do it twice before it works.

Don't worry, it is easy and fun.

Good luck.
OK its been awhile since you had a go at the chute motor. I have a similar issue. Mine would thaw after about 2 minutes with the engine running. Im wondering how this worked out for you. I took mine apart and cleaned it as per your tutorial.Went well. Brushes were a pita until I discovered the trick to it. Yes there was a small amount of water. Cleaned and lubed and put back together. See what happens. I think the water is getting in around the drive sprocket. There was a far amount of play in that one compared to tight on the other motor. Stands to reason the left / right motor is used much more and would wear out around the shaft sooner. I dont see a cure for this except allow a drain as you did to give it a place to go. I didnt think of it when I had it off, perhaps switching places on the motors would be a good idea. I may switch them. Put the better one wher it does the most work.
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-01-2018, 06:51 PM
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A rain day today. So I decided to switch the motors positions. The up/down motor is very tight and should be awhile before its a problem in the sideways position. One tip I picked up from another source is to keep alot of grease on the drive sprocket. This will help repel the water and less getting in the gears. Makes sense. So to me the moral of all this is as soon as you start to have a slight freeze problem take it apart, drain and re grease before too much damage to the unit occurs. Mine was is ten years old and slight freeze issues were starting to happen. Opening up the motor was a good plan. There was minimal corrosion and unit should go years before problems again. These motors on the HS928 are about $200+ to replace. Save yourself some $ and open em up when they start to leak.
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-26-2018, 01:45 PM
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service manual info to setup preload on chute motor

can someone look in their service manual (HS928) and see what is required when reinstalling the electric motor on the chute (preload etc. for the ball under the screw on the end of the motor shaft and the play on the motor to the chute)
there is some adjustment in the mounting plate to the chute as well as some adjustment in the chute hold down clamps.
also if there are torque specs as well that would be appreciated.
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-26-2018, 06:44 PM
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I have the HSS928A,would the torques be the same has the HS928,if so I will take a photo and upload if for you.I think I saw on here that HS928 electric chute motors may be different, but not sure of the torques.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhashigu View Post
can someone look in their service manual (HS928) and see what is required when reinstalling the electric motor on the chute (preload etc. for the ball under the screw on the end of the motor shaft and the play on the motor to the chute)
there is some adjustment in the mounting plate to the chute as well as some adjustment in the chute hold down clamps.
also if there are torque specs as well that would be appreciated.

Last edited by FullThrottle; 02-26-2018 at 07:23 PM.
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