JD 826D Blower Question - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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JD 826D Blower Question

Hey guys, quick question....at least I hope. I picked up a 1992 826D (at least I think it is a 92) and I have been doing some work to it, but I have a question. I just replaced both the drive belt and the auger belt, but the auger belt smoked like my grandparents! After further inspection it looks like the belt is rubbing on what I think is a brake pad(?)....is there an adjustment for this? Or did is it because I am using an aftermarket belt by Huskee I found on amazon? Pics attached and any help is GREATLY appreciated!
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post #2 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 12:16 PM
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Try Turning the Impeller By Hand, sounds like it may be stuck or frozen. The Brake pad applies pressure to the pulley only when auger is "Disengaged". There are belt adjustments usually on the idler pulley and also on the Auger Control.
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post #3 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Jackmels. The impeller is spinning fine, even throws snow as it should. When the auger is disengaged is when it touches the brake pad and starts burning....
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post #4 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 12:42 PM
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If it's DISENGAGED and it's smoking, the belt is still taking power from the engine sheave above, which would indicate the belt is too short. Or it could possibly be around some other belt keeper?. With the belt cover off, you should be able to see if the auger belt is still rotating even with the handle lever not engaged. The belt should not be rotating if the handle is not engaged. Maybe the PO has the idler pulley adjusted way too far in and your still getting enough friction to continue the belt running. There is a spring wrapped around the rod that controls the brake and idler bracket that when the handle disengages, turns the idler pulley away from the belt, and oppositely pivots the brake pad to contact the auger pulley to stop. Only way for the belt to cause smoke at this point is if the belt is still taking power from the PTO sheave.

Last edited by jtclays; 02-20-2017 at 12:45 PM.
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post #5 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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I took off the belt and compared it to the original belt, it is definitely shorter. SO...is that because the old belt stretched and the PO just adjusted the idler pulley to make it work or is it because the belt is truly not a perfect match....who knows.
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post #6 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 01:42 PM
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The belt could be a too small width, narrower? A 3/8" 3L width rather than a 1/2" 4L belt? If too narrow than it will sink lower in the pulley and be grabbed and not be allowed to slip.
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post #7 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 01:43 PM
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JD lists it as AM128890, 1/2" x 38.8", Don't know what you got from PO, best to check manual and start fresh from there. Doesn't mean you can't get aftermarket. That's an Ariens machine anyway, so you should be able to cross over to an Ariens part or find correct aftermarket ones also. Typically JD prices are completely out of line, but every once in a great while they are the cheapest directly from the dealer. It is rare, though.
John Deere - Parts Catalog
John Deere Auger Drive Belt - M128890
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post #8 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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As always, thank you! Going to put old belt on for now and see what happens.

This machine is fighting hard though! It ran only at full throttle so I took off carb cover and omg there was SO much crud every where. I took off carb and ran through ultrasonic cleaner....disgusting. I cleaned as best I could and put in new carb kit....now she runs great but leaks like crazy when off. I've taken off carb and changed bowls and I even made the float under spec for the clearance, but no luck. Ideas on this one?
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post #9 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 02:20 PM
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Sounds like the fuel inlet needle is not seating allowing gas to come in.

Take the fuel bowl off and push the float up, the fuel should stop.
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post #10 of 20 Old 02-20-2017, 02:55 PM
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Couple things to check, did you remove float and try to put it in fuel or even water. Force it down into the liquid and make sure there are no bubbles. Float should pop right back up on top of liquid. ANY bubbles, you have a bad float which will cause leaks. Shake it by your ear, you should not hear anything. If you hear sloshing, it's done (float/bubble test should reveal this as the float won't pop back up and "float."
Usually leaking when off could be the needle and seat (are you sure the seat is there?). The Tecumseh rubber seat has to be installed correctly to seal. Grooved side goes toward body of carb, flat side (with a number on it) goes toward the needle. When installed on machine that means the grooved side is up, smooth side down. Tecumseh calls for the needle clip to have the long open end wire be pointed toward the choke/air intake side to be properly placed (not the biggest issue as I've seen them work both ways).

Last edited by jtclays; 02-20-2017 at 02:58 PM.
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