Just another TRS32 - Interesting Tin Can over Choke - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 42 Old 08-31-2017, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Just another TRS32 - Interesting Tin Can over Choke

Just another TRS32

Missing carburetor box.
Interesting creative use of an old tin-can to protect the choke. It won't help protect the governor linkages and the rest of the carb though.

Friction disc looks worn and damaged.

Electric starter was not working.. it is now! Just needed to rotate it past the dead spot.

Some structural rust damage where gravel or rocks have worn away the auger bucket neck near the impeller.

Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ERvr9Z3dPRkFyVq2

Last edited by unknown1; 09-07-2017 at 01:46 PM.
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post #2 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 05:43 PM
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Stuart,

Last edited by jtclays; 03-13-2018 at 03:06 PM.
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post #3 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
Stuart, That's not the average TRS Murray blower. It's heavily Murray in the chute and handles , but that tractor section is the old school JD with the differential. Left side wing nut to engage or disengage. Bolt on wheels. Auger gear box too. The friction wheel is very easy to swap, just one nut.
Does that mean I should be excited? :-)

I know that John Deere tried two different suppliers.. one had a very bad reputation, the other was better. I can't remember the details or where I read about that.
Is this one of the good ones?
I must admit the transmission and auger gearbox do look fairly heavy-duty.

The decal for the model number is totally erased so do you know what I have and where I should look to find parts diagrams for this?
I will need to get a friction wheel
The black Carburetor box should work from just about any Tecumseh 10HP I expect.. however I'm guessing JD had yellow/green and may be nice to have if I find one on eBay.

BTW I know why the electric starter was not right. The left mounting bolt hole (closest to the flywheel) has cracked away so I can't get the starter to stay in place properly. This one will just need to stay manual start because I don't think there's any way to re-bore the mounting bolt hole. I certainly don't want to risk going into the crankcase.
New photo added to album showing that damage.
Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ERvr9Z3dPRkFyVq2

Last edited by unknown1; 09-01-2017 at 06:33 PM.
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post #4 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 07:30 PM
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If that starter hole is messed up already you could always try to use some JB Weld to literally glue the bolt back into place. It's not going to come apart nicely should you want to get that bolt out but for as long as the starter lasts it should stay in place. Sometimes it's nice to have an electric on something that big (10hp ??) should it have a problem starting and you need it right then.

All I can remember is when i see TRS on a JD I think trash because they were not true JD built machines. I'm trying to remember but I think some of the TRS were Ariens built and some were Murray. The Murray ones just weren't as strong as the original JD ones and that's why they they were considered "trash". A Murray is what a Murray is. It'll blow snow just fine but don't expect to suck in a frozen newspaper and not have damage where the original JD would likely be just fine.
That one looks to be in nice shape and well worth some detailing

.
Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #5 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 08:12 PM
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post #6 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
If that starter hole is messed up already you could always try to use some JB Weld to literally glue the bolt back into place. It's not going to come apart nicely should you want to get that bolt out but for as long as the starter lasts it should stay in place. Sometimes it's nice to have an electric on something that big (10hp ??) should it have a problem starting and you need it right then.

All I can remember is when i see TRS on a JD I think trash because they were not true JD built machines. I'm trying to remember but I think some of the TRS were Ariens built and some were Murray. The Murray ones just weren't as strong as the original JD ones and that's why they they were considered "trash". A Murray is what a Murray is. It'll blow snow just fine but don't expect to suck in a frozen newspaper and not have damage where the original JD would likely be just fine.
That one looks to be in nice shape and well worth some detailing
Ah yes... JB Weld... I try to forget about that stuff but in this case it may be worth a try... nothing to lose!

I think this may (perhaps) be one of the good ones... did you look at the pictures of the transmission and auger gearbox.. very heavy duty! Looking forward to hearing if anyone knows exactly what I've got.
All the rest of the machine seems good enough too. It's hard to believe that this was one of the ones with the bad reputation. If so I'd like to remember why they had a bad rap. I can't remember where I read all that stuff about the two suppliers. I just remember vaguely that there were good ones and bad ones. As always.. anything from this era is better than most things made today so I'm happy either way. :-)

Last edited by unknown1; 09-01-2017 at 08:24 PM.
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post #7 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
Excited? Guess it's up to you, but that's a lot better built machine than Murray could do on their own. Just passing along info.
Plain 826, 1032 is JD made. The TRS are contracts out to Murray. The "D" (826D, 1032D) were Ariens contracts. The TRS models have a serial break where some are left over Moline made tractors/auger gear box and then after the break you'll find Murray everywhere.
Deere eventually went to Briggs buiding blowers and then dropped out of Walk behind blowers entirely.
If you go to Scots site you can read about some of the models.

Friction disc is M114485 on yours, they ain't cheap.
You can look around here for parts:
John Deere - Parts Catalog
Like any John Deere part, google the part number for several different sources and usually get varying prices (especially bushings and bearings). Every once in awhile the JD dealer is the lowest, but rarely. I can't find the old post, but I found the "D" series belt covers were near $70 from JD and the exact Ariens cover was like $20. I had a JD made 826 from '89 with same tractor and auger gear box. Tank of a machine.
That's the info I'd seen but forgotten. Thanks!! 3 vintages: JD, Murray and Ariens. I seem to remember that the Murray ones were the ones that caused complaints....but I can't remember the details.
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post #8 of 42 Old 09-01-2017, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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The starter had a jammed pinion gear

It turns out the starter motor was not just stuck on a dead spot on the commutator.
The pinion gear was jammed in the "start" position and was not sliding back out of the way into the "run"position.

A bit of penetrating oil and a sharp tap with a hammer fixed that.

I'm guessing the damage to the mounting bolt hole was caused by that pinion refusing to slide out of the way and the fly-wheel tried to free-spin the starter motor at engine speed!

I guess the previous owner must have given in almost immediately because the starter motor is just fine.
It broke the mounting bolt hole but that's all. He must have just decided to give in and didn't actually get the engine started.

That's good news otherwise the bearings in the motor would probably have suffered badly if he ever got the engine started.
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post #9 of 42 Old 09-06-2017, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
If that starter hole is messed up already you could always try to use some JB Weld to literally glue the bolt back into place.....
Boy oh boy this is not as easy at that sounds.
I've had two attempts at gluing it on and chiselling it off again.

The problem is trying to set the angles and to make the angles stay where you thought you set them.
If the alignment is too far one way, the pinion gear slams into the flywheel instead of meshing with it.
If it's too far the other way, it misses the flywheel altogether and just spins in mid-air.

If the bolt holes were not damaged, you could use washers to shim the angles into alignment.
If they are damaged.. it's a little tricky.

So now I've got the flywheel cover off and I'm going to have one last try to make everything line up and stay lined up as the JB Weld sets.
I'm having to bend the four mounting brackets on the starter motor (with subtle use of a mallet) to try to get things lined up.
But there's no aluminum on the side closest to the flywheel to give a solid base to stop things wobbling.

Stuck a couple of pilot bolts in place to give the JBW something to set against
I love JB weld... so easy and pretty to work with ;-)

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2SpvffcqIKgwJNQe2

Last edited by unknown1; 09-07-2017 at 01:05 PM.
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post #10 of 42 Old 09-07-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuart80112 View Post

I know that John Deere tried two different suppliers.. one had a very bad reputation, the other was better. I can't remember the details or where I read about that.
Is this one of the good ones?
You might have read about it here:

https://scotlawrence.github.io/arien...html#question3

(scroll down past Cub Cadet and Bolens to get to John Deere)

and with those two suppliers, Ariens was the good one.
The Murrays were the ones with the very bad reputation..sorry.

Scot


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