I need the John Deere FACTORY TECH support telephone number? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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I need the John Deere FACTORY TECH support telephone number?

Does anyone have a telephone number to the actual John Deere Factory service techs? I've talked to the local dealers about my old J.D. 1032 and it's impeller bearing replacement. I gave them all the numbers off the machine tag but they can't figure out the year it was made either!
They can't seem to get it right. I'd rather call the factory Techs'. Thanks.
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post #2 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 10:10 AM
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If it's a real John Deere and not a Ariens, Murray, or Frontier, mine is a 1983. You can use that as a guide. I called the factory several times with my model # and serial # to find out the year to no avail. They did not have it listed and said I must be making a mistake. I called my local John Deere dealer giving them those same numbers and they had no problem finding it, listing as a 1983. Someone in the past two weeks posted a service manual for it that was very intensive. Parts are very expensive through John Deere, I suggest removing the bearing, measuring it, search for those specs finding a replacement from another manufacturer, even a 2nd party.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale

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post #3 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 10:23 AM
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John Deere Horicon Works
220 E Lake St, Horicon, WI 53032
(920) 485-4411


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post #4 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 10:49 AM
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks YanMar Ronin.. I'll look into that.
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I returned the replacement bearing/housing to the parts dealer. Later in the day, after they called J.D....J.D. said to just mill the part of the bronze bushing that was protruding to far out of the flange housing and call it good. so that is what they did. I'm to pick it up again.... tomorrow. Guys... you don't have to replace the whole assembly...just get a new bronze bushing pressed in place of the worn one... a LOT less money.
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-05-2018, 11:17 PM
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[quote=jtclays;1535849] Unless the housing is ruined, you only need the bushing and almost any 1 inch ID "bronze" oil impregnated bushing will work. If it's too long you can cut it to fit. I think I even used a flanged one and ground off the flange part.

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Well, I returned the replacement bearing/housing to the parts dealer. Later in the day, after they called J.D....J.D. said to just mill the part of the bronze bushing that was protruding to far out of the flange housing and call it good. so that is what they did. I'm to pick it up again.... tomorrow. Guys... you don't have to replace the whole assembly...just get a new bronze bushing pressed in place of the worn one... a LOT less money.
Not surprising, jt told you what to do. He knows those machines better than anyone here.

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post #8 of 19 Old 03-06-2018, 01:23 AM
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Yup. JD isn't going to provide any support for something that old.
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-06-2018, 07:01 AM
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-06-2018, 02:36 PM
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I have not done that exact piece, but here's a process I've used on a couple of similar items that made assembly go easier.
Put the bushing in the freezer over night. Put the housing in the oven at maybe 150 degrees or so for 15-30 minutes (depends on the material). With some good gloves on (I prefer welders gloves), pull both out and slide the bushing into the housing. I did one where I literally pushed the bushing all the way in by hand. Others I used a piece of wood to finish pushing it in. Once it cooled it was in there tight so get it lined up and keep it there while it cools.


Some people say to dunk them in water to cool, I prefer to let them air cool. I think it puts less stress on the parts than dunking does but that's just me.
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