John Deere rubber friction disk changed in minutes - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 Old 03-15-2018, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,168
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 91
Thanks (Received): 180
Likes (Given): 70
Likes (Received): 413
Garage
John Deere rubber friction disk changed in minutes

I have a real John Deere 1032. The rubber friction disk is so easy to replace, it only takes minutes.

With the machines I've worked on, there's a hex shaft that goes through the center of the friction disk. It goes from the left side to the right side of the machine. To remove this hex shaft, you have to remove the wheels, remove a bolt that holds a gear on, remove the end bearings that hold the wheel axle shaft on, remove the axle, slide the gear and chain off the hex shaft, remove the hex shaft, then washers fall out from a fork, remove the rubber friction disk. The hard part is putting everything back together! And what a greasy mess!

With the John Deere made machine, the hex shaft does not go from the left side to the right side. It only goes part of the way across. There is 3"-4" of room between the friction disk and the inside side of the machine. At the end of this shaft of the John Deere is the rubber friction disk. You remove the one bolt in the center of the disk holding it on, remove the disk, put the new one on, the one bolt again, you're done. Minutes and it's not greasy, not dirty, you could do it in your Sunday best! Really.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale

Last edited by JLawrence08648; 03-19-2018 at 11:05 PM.
JLawrence08648 is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Thanks Copper116 thanked for this post
Likes Copper116 liked this post
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 03-15-2018, 04:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 190
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 17
Likes (Given): 36
Likes (Received): 34
have you ever worked on a 924000 series ariens? same setup
arienskids is online now  
post #3 of 7 Old 03-15-2018, 06:42 PM
Senior Member
 
db130's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 739
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 15
Thanks (Received): 64
Likes (Given): 206
Likes (Received): 140
Same thing with the 80s and 90s Bolens/Troy-bilt units, easy as pie.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
db130 is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Thanks Copper116 thanked for this post
Likes Copper116 liked this post
post #4 of 7 Old 03-15-2018, 09:36 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Allendale, Michigan
Posts: 69
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 31
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 29
Likes (Received): 8
I have a 1980 J.D. 1032. It appears mine won't be hard to change either. Question tho: I checked my clearance between the friction wheel and the disc. It's at the required .016" gap. It's also in the center of the disc. But when in gear, it won't move. What is the thickness of the rubber on your NEW friction wheel? What is the total diameter of the friction disc? Mine appears worn down and glazed over which I'm attributing to the problem but I want to make sure before I go to replace it. Thanks.
Copper116 is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 03-15-2018, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,168
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 91
Thanks (Received): 180
Likes (Given): 70
Likes (Received): 413
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Copper116 View Post
I have a 1980 J.D. 1032. But when in gear, it won't move. What is the thickness of the rubber on your NEW friction wheel? What is the total diameter of the friction disc? Mine appears worn down and glazed over which I'm attributing to the problem but I want to make sure before I go to replace it. Thanks.
When in gear it shouldn't move.
Thickness I don't know, it's outside but it's the same diameter as the old one.
You should always stop the machine when shifting, don't shift while the machine is moving, it wear down the rubber fiction disk.
If it's glazed over, use sandpaper, you do not want to remove the rubber, only removing the glaze.
If it's in gear, there should be pressure against the friction wheel and friction plate, if so, it's not worn enough to replace. Turn the wheel and watch how things move. Put it on the ground in gear and see if you can pull it backwards.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
JLawrence08648 is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Thanks Copper116 thanked for this post
Likes Copper116 liked this post
post #6 of 7 Old 03-16-2018, 03:10 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Allendale, Michigan
Posts: 69
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 31
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 29
Likes (Received): 8
I worked on my buddies Ariens but it didn't need any work to the drive system... mostly just bearing/bushings.
Copper116 is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 03-19-2018, 10:55 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Allendale, Michigan
Posts: 69
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 31
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 29
Likes (Received): 8
I was loading my 1032 J.D. (1980) on my trailer to ready it for transport to a repair shop to get an axle pin removed. On a side note... I called a J.D. dealer and they get $58.00/hr. I called a 2nd dealer... they get $100.00/hr !!! Must be some service there!!
Anyway, I had the machine in neutral and it rolls nice in forward motion but try to pull it backward it won't budge!!! What should I check next to correct that problem?
Copper116 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome