John Deere rubber friction disk changed in minutes
I have a real John Deere 1032. The rubber friction disk is so easy to replace, it only takes minutes.
With the machines I've worked on, there's a hex shaft that goes through the center of the friction disk. It goes from the left side to the right side of the machine. To remove this hex shaft, you have to remove the wheels, remove a bolt that holds a gear on, remove the end bearings that hold the wheel axle shaft on, remove the axle, slide the gear and chain off the hex shaft, remove the hex shaft, then washers fall out from a fork, remove the rubber friction disk. The hard part is putting everything back together! And what a greasy mess!
With the John Deere made machine, the hex shaft does not go from the left side to the right side. It only goes part of the way across. There is 3"-4" of room between the friction disk and the inside side of the machine. At the end of this shaft of the John Deere is the rubber friction disk. You remove the one bolt in the center of the disk holding it on, remove the disk, put the new one on, the one bolt again, you're done. Minutes and it's not greasy, not dirty, you could do it in your Sunday best! Really.
1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
Last edited by JLawrence08648; 03-19-2018 at 10:05 PM.