How fussy JD vs clone belts? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-25-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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How fussy JD vs clone belts?

I bought used spring 2016 a JD 1032. I used it a little in 2017 as I switch blowers. I like to use all the blowers I sell to see if there is any problems before their sold.

When I used the JD 1032 this year, 2018, in a wet heavy snow, the auger belt was slipping so much, not only was it not throwing well, the belt was on the edge of burning. I ordered a new clone, generic belt, Kevlar, 1/2" x 36". If I recall, probably D&D Power. It was the same size as the original which was on the machine. I measured the outside of the belt before I put it on using a flexible tailor's tape as 36" exactly and using paper spring clips to hold the tape against the belt. I also measured the JD belt as 36" which surprised me as it showed no stretch. Then why was it slipping? Burning? The sides worn? The angle was wrong by wear? It doesn't sit down right?

I called the JD dealer, talked to the service manager who was a JD mechanic at one time. He said he uses clone belts for all other makes of equipment other than John Deere. Years ago he tried clones but he did not have success with them so he uses only John Deere belts for every JD piece of equipment. He says he didn't know why the JD belts work where the others did not. He said maybe it's the cut of the belt, the angle or something. He suggested I try a John Deere belt. The JD auger belt is close to $25. Since the original belt was not stretched, did not look burnt, I didn't see the advantage of trying a new one. So I thought I might try a clone again but 1/4" smaller, 1/2" x 35 3/4" for $8 instead of 36". Of course I won't know for sure if the clone works until we get snow next year and if it didn't, I would have to change it in the cold though I do have backup blowers to use for that snow.

Had anyone experienced this problem?

I'd like to say screw it and put the JD belt on expecting it to work! Because who wants to screw around in the cold and snow, it's not worth saving a few dollars, but then if that slipped, I'm out $25! I'm hoping a 1/4" shorter is not enough to spin the auger when not engaged as the tension using a 36" belt that it calls for seems perfect.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale

Last edited by JLawrence08648; 12-17-2018 at 01:02 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-26-2018, 01:55 AM
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I've had that experience as well, but have had some success with belts from NAPA on the old JD 826 and 1032s.
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-26-2018, 09:58 AM
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Being you have a number of different brand blowers, it would be interesting to compare the pulleys between them and see if there's a difference in angle or width on the others vs. the JD. I can't imagine why between 2 seemingly identical belts one would work and the other not unless there was a difference in the pulleys.


Just some thoughts.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-28-2018, 02:00 AM
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Good evening. When the auger drive lever is moved 2/3 of the way forward, the belt should tighten. Moving the lever the remaining 1/3 of the distance to the "Engage" position will provide the proper belt tension. Adjustment, if necessary, is made by adjusting the length of the auger control rod. Shortening the length of the rod (by turning the fitting on the bottom of the rod onto the rod) will increase belt tension. This may help with your belt slippage. If the pulleys need cleaning, isopropyl alcohol or brake clean works well. While I prefer the JD belts, I have used aftermarket belts with good success. However, it is critical that the belt purchased is designed to "bend backwards" around the belt tension idler. Regular v-belts are not designed to do this and will fail quite quickly, especially if you are blowing heavy snow.
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-13-2018, 10:11 PM
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The belts grip via the sides, kind of like snowmobile belts. On sleds you know when it's worn by how far down into the pulley it sits as it's not going to stretch at all, just get narrower.

I ordered some belts from john deere that I cross referenced on different websites and ended up with a A&I products 1/2" by 37" for the auger and a K-force 3/8" by 34" for the drive. Both are kevlar wrapped and it was about $15 for the both.

The parts guy did try to sell me a similar belt he had in stock but not kevlar wrapped AND when he did a comparison it turned out that one belt was something like 34 degree sides and one was 40 degree sides, don't remember what mine was but that definitely could be an issue with knockoffs. Wrong degree side and suddenly you have that much less belt in contact with a pulley!
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-16-2018, 10:30 PM
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The belts I got from NAPA for a TRS-27 and 826 have thus far not been too bad! Made by Gates. They make good belts and may have even made the original JD belts as JD never made belts. They just had their name stamped onto them from the factory that made them.
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-19-2018, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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I'm quoting this post by notabiker as it's an interesting point he makes and good to remember. It makes sense.

Belts do not grip from the bottom, they grip from the sides. As belts stretch, they sit lower in the pulley, eventually stretching enough not to be effective due to lack of tension. Next, as belts move lower in the pulley, they effectively become longer because they move lower in to a smaller diameter pulley, again, giving up the tension which is necessary for proper operation. Next, belts don't slip in the bottom, they slip on the sides thus glazing the sides causing further slippage because it's not grabbing.

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Originally Posted by notabiker View Post
The belts grip via the sides, kind of like snowmobile belts. On sleds you know when it's worn by how far down into the pulley it sits as it's not going to stretch at all, just get narrower.

I ordered some belts from john deere that I cross referenced on different websites and ended up with a A&I products 1/2" by 37" for the auger and a K-force 3/8" by 34" for the drive. Both are kevlar wrapped and it was about $15 for the both.

The parts guy did try to sell me a similar belt he had in stock but not kevlar wrapped AND when he did a comparison it turned out that one belt was something like 34 degree sides and one was 40 degree sides, don't remember what mine was but that definitely could be an issue with knockoffs. Wrong degree side and suddenly you have that much less belt in contact with a pulley!

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-24-2018, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered and received 2 OEM John Deere belts, $50! I haven't installed them yet, this week, but of course I won't be able to test them, LOL, until..... In the meantime I had the chute enlarged to throw further, and this week plan to install a impeller kit, maybe?

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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