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New Engine JD 1032

10K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  Mattriumcath 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, bolted up a new harbor freight 13 hp to my old JD 1032. First issue is the crankshaft size on the old motor was 3/4" new engine is 1"where can I find replacement pulleys, small od is 2 5/8", larger front is 2 7/8"?
 

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#2 · (Edited)
I and many others on here have the same machine, JD 1032. Please keep us informed of the progress especially pulley size and belt size! to make our change over smoother when the engine blows. The Real JD 1032 is too good a machine to discard, cast iron gearbox, you will never find impeller blades as thick as on the 1032, the housing, has rods no cables, the easiest fastest replacement of a friction disk on the market. Thanks.
 
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#3 ·
Tractor Supply Carries a Good Assortment of Pulleys. OR-Bring the Original pulleys to a machine shop, and have them Punched Out to 1".
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestion, I went to Tractor Supply on line and looked at their pulley's, couldn't find pulleys that close with the 1" bore, if my new pulleys don't do the job I may end up getting the old one bored or drilled. Also, the 1/4" means the key slot will need to be redone, I don't have access to a machine shop where I live, suggestions appreciated.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I found a 2.45" (original 2 5/8") & 2.75 (original 2 7/8") TB woods on amazon, going to give them a try, both are a little smaller than my original, but I have been following a rebuild on YouTube and that guy mounted a 16 hp, larger pulleys and ended up needing to reinforce the shoot due to warping it out of shape due to all the thrust, I have no need for that. The shaft on the new motor is also a bit taller, 5.250" compared to original 4.50" from mounting deck to output shaft center so the belt guard will also need to be modified. Rather than fab a new one, I plan to remove material at the top of the original guard and and recover with some sheet metal. May not be too pretty, but I just want to blow snow, just my driveway! I am also installing an impeller kit, I tried to fab some out of plastic bondo spreaders, didn't last. Can't find old truck mud flaps so will just order a kit.
 
#6 ·
I just created an account to do the exact same thing as you. I also have a Deere 1032D that I'm repowering with a 13hp 420cc predator. What did you/are you doing for mounting the engine? The bolting pattern is different and so is the distance from the crank about to the bolting pattern. If I make an adapter plate that would make the height difference even worse. I was going to go slightly bigger on the upper pulley, but didn't think about warping the chute. Maybe the only using the 13hp vs a 16hp would be enough difference.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Made some progress, will fire it up tomorrow. Current set up rear pulley TB Woods AK 241 OD 2.45", front pulley Gates BK28 OD 2.95". Belts, rear A37 39" OD, front belt A36 38" OD. Still to do impeller kit, Modify the belt guard, modify the chute adjustment mounting, doesn't quite clear the engine in its original location, it looks it will clear if mounted closer to the left handle.
 

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#13 ·
Still to do impeller kit.
When drilling the holes for the rubber impeller kit, notice there are very thick ribs on the underside of the blades, noting the drill hole will need to be located for the bolt body AND nut to clear these ribs. AND even with a sharp drill bit, it seems I'm still drilling! It's thick.
 
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#14 ·
Got it running, had to re-jet the Predator for high altitude, the engine came with two optional jets with gasket and new bowl seal, I am at about 7500 ft, chose the jet for 6000 to 8000.

All the YouTuber's claim it starts on the first pull, mine started on second, sigh. I did notice some belt smoke from the inside belt, looks like the idler is a little cocked, guess I will take it apart and see if it has a bad bushing or bearing. Anyway getting close, the Race is on, no snow yet!

 
#20 · (Edited)
Awesome RD Bill....thanks for sharing your progress...can't wait to see the beast perform. Did you add a Impeller kit????
Not yet, have it on order. I know they work well and especially help with wet soft, slushy snow. Has been a super fun rebuild. I still have the belt guard, I am thinking maybe careful cut-off of the top section and maybe some aluminum sheet hammered into shape, then hammered down pop rivets, not quite sure how to accomplish this part, I don't currently have a welder so fabrication and rebuilding the complete cover is not an option. Dang I have given away two welders thinking I was finished with that, then this.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Ok Another helpful hint, I bent the chute direction controller down so it would clear the engine, problem is when you do that it changes the worm gear geometry so it no longer operates, so bend down and twist the mounting bracket on the worm gear end, no instant joy but get a round file and elongate the slot towards the chute and like magic it works again.
 

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#28 ·
Yep, understand, I originally bought this unit for $250 10 years ago, I have now added about $400 with the new engine, pulley's, belts etc and my goal is to advise how to do this upgrade for the minimum, it works, can't get better than that, no extra spent, no desire to spend more.
 
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