JD 826 with odd S/N - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-19-2014, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Smile JD 826 with odd S/N

I just purchased an older 826 snow blower. According to what I've seen online regarding the auger housing shape, it appears to be an original JD-manufactured unit. However, when I contacted JD Support, they said the Serial Number is in the right place, but they couldn't find any information about it.

Has anyone seen this type of Serial Number: P826K 155115 M ?

Everything appears to be in excellent shape. Most of the original paint is on it, including the auger.

When I prime it, gas leaks around the needle/fitting at the bottom of the sediment bowl, so I'm looking for the proper gaskets. The engine is stamped with: HM80-155013G SER 0123D

I can send any pictures if needed.

Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-19-2014, 12:47 PM
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Sounds like you don't need to deal with John Deere to fix this. That is a common Tecumseh engine so you just need the Tecumseh number that was stamped in to the top of the engine. Any small engine repair place will have the parts you need.

Link to engine diagrams:
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt...

Link to carburetor:
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt...

The proper complete rebuild kit would be Tecumseh # 631978.
If you just need the needle, seat and bowl gaskets it is Tecumseh # 631021B.
Not sure what part number you need for the little drain valve. Another option for that is to replace the bowl for one without the drain in it.

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post #3 of 12 Old 09-19-2014, 04:38 PM
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ALOHA to the forms..: cool:

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-19-2014, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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OK. I appreciate the engine links. I'll get a carb kit ordered then.

Any thoughts on the odd S/N? What year was this manufactured?

I understand that I should purchase some extra shear pins for WHEN I hit something... Is there a good source online for those? I've read that some non-OEM shear too easily.

Thanks!
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-19-2014, 07:26 PM
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Do yourself a favor, and check amazon with the proper part numbers. I have found that in many cases, that even I can save a few bucks, even with shipping, using them.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-19-2014, 08:56 PM
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Welcome to the forum ClarkJeff.
HM80-155013G 0123D

"H" is for horizontal. "M" is for medium frame."80" is 8 horse power."155013G" is the specification number which lists all the parts related to YOUR engine.
"0123D" the "0" is the year manufactured. YOU have to guess if it was 1970, 1980, or 1990. "123" is the day of the year made. "D" is the assembly line and the shift who built it.

We all love pictures, posting a few may help with future questions.

Toro 8/24 (38080) 1989
Toro 721-QZR (38743) 2015 (Hemi Predator Power)

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Last edited by Grunt; 09-19-2014 at 08:58 PM. Reason: Add after thought.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-20-2014, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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OK. More excellent information! I'm assuming they didn't think the equipment was going to work for more than 10 years to not track the decade?

Has anyone ever seen a Serial Number like this? I'm hoping it's a rare JD prototype that's now worth millions of dollars....

I was able to download the PDF manuals, so should be able to figure out how everything works.

I'll attach pictures, for reference.

I think for the first time in my life, I'm really looking forward for lots of snow...
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-20-2014, 12:06 PM
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Looks like that machine is in good shape. I think you would do better with a 90 degree fuel shutoff vs the inline one though. You would have less fuel line hanging down. Wonder why someone would replace all that line and then leave the little piece on the bottom of the tank.

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post #9 of 12 Old 09-20-2014, 12:13 PM
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After looking around the internet, I will take a GUESS as this machine is from 1980. The knob tires and white plastic electric start push button seems to confirm this ? I also found this link in my library for the John Deere service manual for your machine. There are a few Deere enthusiasts on here that will eventually chime in with more information. IF that is a 34 year old machine, it is in super condition. This file is 34 meg in size and will take awhile to download, but well worth having.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9k1uzy1s5s...1234-01740.pdf

Looks just like this one !

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...st-bought.html

Toro 8/24 (38080) 1989
Toro 721-QZR (38743) 2015 (Hemi Predator Power)

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Last edited by Grunt; 09-20-2014 at 12:22 PM. Reason: Add Info
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-24-2014, 12:57 PM
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Jeff, I have an 826 that is from 1989. Very near identical to yours. I would suggest yours is likely an '81. Engine manufactured in about April of '80 probably didn't get on a 1980 year model. The 70's machines had chrome handlebars, the late 80's machines had a bigger wingnut on the left wheel and a taller chute, so '81 seems about right. I don't know what to tell you on the serial number???? Mine had the traditional "M00826----" style and said "Deere and Company Moline, Illinois"
I'd pull the shear pins and make sure your augers are free to spin on the shaft. Pull your belt cover and inspect the brake arm. Make sure it hasn't worn through the bracket where it rides on the idler. (with cover off, operate the auger engagement lever on dash and you will see what I mean). Very heavy duty machine and easy to work on. Wish you good luck with it. Also check your impeller blades and make sure they are straight and true. They are long and wide and tend to get bent. Check your gap between the impeller blades and the bucket. Mine was about 1/4" and I added an impeller kit.

Last edited by jtclays; 09-24-2014 at 01:02 PM. Reason: forgot stuff
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