1980 John Deere 826 - General Questions - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 71 Old 11-12-2014, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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1980 John Deere 826 - General Questions

Everyone, I bought a John Deere 826 today on a whim. I need to go pick it up, as it was a local online auction. I found the Operator's Manual and Service Manual today on the internet and read through them. They seem like straight forward machines and easily worked on, so that helped in my buying it.

I have a few questions. I seen in the manual they specify Torq-Guard Supreme 5w-20 oil, which Deere no longer makes, just Torq-Guard and and don't see in on JDparts.com in 5w20 either. So wondering if I would be best just running Amsoil XL oil in it? I use thing in our wood splitter on the farm and so far it's been great.

I see there is a 'drift bar' you can add to the blower and my local deere had on in stock so I just ordered that from Jdparts.com. But looking in the parts breakdown online I see the option for a headlight too - but those parts are NLA - is there a company selling these as kits now? Or are others just adding them on their own?

Then just in general is there anything to look over on these when I get it? I have read about them here and other places online. Like everything previous maintenance is key but anything I should check as soon as I get it? I see the technical manual is very good at walking you through thing and the grease point and lubrication so will check all of that and the general area's before it gets used.

I will try to upload some pictures of the machine. Thanks for any advice andI look forward to using it and adding it to my John Deere collection that is always growing it seems! Thanks

Link to Amsoil: http://http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by...oil/?Group=180
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post #2 of 71 Old 11-12-2014, 05:21 AM
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A couple members here have blowers like that and they like them.

I bought drift cutters for my Ariens because they were on clearance for like $7 when I was buying some other stuff, but I don't even have them on there anymore. They aren't really needed unless the snow is higher than 2 feet.

Any oil should be fine in there. Just keep it clean and topped off. Most blowers use 5w30, but if it is colder 5w20 should be fine.

The 2 major issues I see a lot online with the Deere blowers of this design are the impeller blades can get bent backwards and the differential and large wing nut on the one wheel get all rusted up. And the common thing with all old blowers is the augers get rusted to the shaft up front.

Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
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post #3 of 71 Old 11-12-2014, 09:02 AM
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Shryp noted the most common concerns accurately. On mine the impeller to bucket gap was close to 1/4" so I installed a Clarence kit. Major improvement. If you have the tech manual it shows pretty clearly the wingnut assembly on the left wheel. Just to make it clear, though. When you spin off the wingnut there will be what looks like a big azz nut. It's only shaped that way. It is in fact a keyed friction fit, pressure plate. It should slide out and not be wrenched. The axle is two separate shafts that meet inside the differential. There are pins (or bolts) that need to be drifted out. If you pull the inspection pan, you will see them along the axle tube. I say this because if you need to change out the axle bushings you will have to deal with this removal. Because of the way the wheel assemblies sit so close to the tractor body it's very hard to see the axle bushings for inspection. If you get the wheels off the ground grab a wheel and move it around, you shouldn't see much wobble if the bushings are good. My experience is these wear much more on machines running chains. They will tend to lock in one position and egg or wear through the top portion of the bushing causing the axle to ride against the tractor body. Pull the belt cover and inspect the brake arm for wear where it rides on the auger engagement pulley assembly. It will be obvious where this is when you pull the belt cover. They are tanks and very easy to work on if not rusted up. Wish you good luck with it
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post #4 of 71 Old 11-13-2014, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies - Sorry I am just getting back on here, when deer hunting yesterday and got one so dealt with that and now getting caught back up.

Good on the oil, I will Amsoil in it then - and change as soon as I get it along with a new spark plug as well.

How do you tell if the impeller is bent? I am sure if alot it's noticeable but if only slightly what do you as a baseline?

I am going to check the differential over well, and if it's locked up, it will need to get free'd up as I want the option of locking it in and out - so it will need to be addressed if it is!

How do the augers work? I figured they are pretty solid, but is there a shear bolt you mean and they get rusted to the shaft so essentially the shear bolt isn't doing it's job? As I will make sure to check that if that is the case.

As far as chains since it has them I would probably run them, or are they heave enough do a good enough job without? There will be a sidewalk going uphill it will get used on.

I read somewhere else to really get the front height adjustment set right, so it's up 1/16 of an inch or so. Will check that too and if not replace the cutting edge.

I found a website last night that makes skid shoes to that are longer - anyone recommend them? Are are factory pretty good? Probably one of those things if stock are still useable use them if not replace with the newer kind.

Sorry for all the questions but really like things to be setup to work well and be maintained and trying to learn all I can! Thanks.
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post #5 of 71 Old 11-13-2014, 09:35 PM
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I swapped my skids to a brand called Robalon. Synthetic that doesn't scratch or rust. Little pricey, but i liked them. The augers won't have shear "bolts" as other machines have. Stock were pins with either cotter pins or rings to keep them in. Idea is to pull each side shear pin out and see if your auger spins freely. If it doesn't the auger gear case will take any impact from an obstruction directly. Those parts are NLA so wise to get the augers set up correctly first. There should be a grease zerk on each side also. Squirt some in even if they spin nice, cheap insurance.
The impeller will have four blades that are all cupped toward the left as you look in the bucket. The cupped end is somewhat long and can get bent over the years. I had one bent and fixed it with heat and a large adjustable wrench. I've seen them bent completely over to the right in some pictures.
With those tires, you'll want chains with any incline at all. Like I said, check the wheel axle bushings now. If they are shot, the axle will eventually ride against the tractor sheet metal. The relatively thick sheet metal having all the weight of the machine pushing down as the axle rotates will act like a lathe tool on your NLA axle.
Also, if you get any other skids, check on center bolt hole measurement. I think the JD is an oddball at 2" centers.
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post #6 of 71 Old 11-13-2014, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
I swapped my skids to a brand called Robalon. Synthetic that doesn't scratch or rust. Little pricey, but i liked them. The augers won't have shear "bolts" as other machines have. Stock were pins with either cotter pins or rings to keep them in. Idea is to pull each side shear pin out and see if your auger spins freely. If it doesn't the auger gear case will take any impact from an obstruction directly. Those parts are NLA so wise to get the augers set up correctly first. There should be a grease zerk on each side also. Squirt some in even if they spin nice, cheap insurance.
The impeller will have four blades that are all cupped toward the left as you look in the bucket. The cupped end is somewhat long and can get bent over the years. I had one bent and fixed it with heat and a large adjustable wrench. I've seen them bent completely over to the right in some pictures.
With those tires, you'll want chains with any incline at all. Like I said, check the wheel axle bushings now. If they are shot, the axle will eventually ride against the tractor sheet metal. The relatively thick sheet metal having all the weight of the machine pushing down as the axle rotates will act like a lathe tool on your NLA axle.
Also, if you get any other skids, check on center bolt hole measurement. I think the JD is an oddball at 2" centers.
All good things! The brand of skid shoes I found were SnowBlowerSkids.com - the ones you have on yours are nice and in my opinion not spendy at all. So will look into them.

I just gotta go get this thing so I can start going through it and checking over the maintenance items. I will probably have more questions then too. Def. going to check all things mentioned though. Thanks again! Already snowed here the last few days a few times just a light dusting but won't be long.
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post #7 of 71 Old 11-14-2014, 02:44 PM
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Badger, After thinking about it, my description of the impeller blades is inaccurate. Reason is they are mounted in a circle so half way around they they are cupped the other way
I found this pic hanging around the net: These are all bent the correct way, sometimes they'll flap right over the other way, Just FYI. If you get the idea they kind of follow each other around counterclockwise as you look into the bucket from the front.
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post #8 of 71 Old 11-14-2014, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
Badger, After thinking about it, my description of the impeller blades is inaccurate. Reason is they are mounted in a circle so half way around they they are cupped the other way
I found this pic hanging around the net: These are all bent the correct way, sometimes they'll flap right over the other way, Just FYI. If you get the idea they kind of follow each other around counterclockwise as you look into the bucket from the front.
Gotcha! Dad has an 8 foot blower for his tractor. I just didn't quite know how to tell if they are off as somewhere I read someone mentioned it was only slightly. But as long as they are their true 90 degree angle then looks like they will throw snow. The picture helped though, easier to see then explain unless your standing there by it.
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post #9 of 71 Old 11-14-2014, 11:13 PM
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Welcome to the forum Badger08

Handy site for part numbers and exploded diagrams. - - > John Deere - Parts Catalog

I use it a lot for my two JD riders. Once you have the JD part number you can google it or try ebay to get price and availability or maybe even a crossover p/n.

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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #10 of 71 Old 11-15-2014, 09:26 AM
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Lot of old blowers I have bought over the years shifted hard if at all- if that is the case and I think JD is same.. take bottom cover off and clean and add light film of lithum or simular grease to the octagon shaft- also a round one up close to back of body but up higher. Don't get any on friction plate. little oil on shifter pivot area and then shift it through the gears-Shift it also to get at all areas of shafts when greasing. really helps. All this with machine 'off' of course.
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