JD 726 drive does not engage. - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 21 Old 12-01-2014, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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JD 726 drive does not engage.

I have a JD 726 that will not engage the drive when the clutch handle is gripped. Everything in the drive compartment seems to be in place and able to move. No belts are loose or broken.

Looking for any suggestions?
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post #2 of 21 Old 12-01-2014, 11:29 PM
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I have a JD 726 that will not engage the drive when the clutch handle is gripped. Everything in the drive compartment seems to be in place and able to move. No belts are loose or broken.

Looking for any suggestions?
What is the condition of your drive disc? The belts can be great but if your disc is bad it ain't gonna budge. If it's questionable you'll want to clean it off and maybe even take some sand paper to it to rough it up a bit. Also clean the drive plate off.

Joe

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post #3 of 21 Old 12-02-2014, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micah68kj View Post
What is the condition of your drive disc? The belts can be great but if your disc is bad it ain't gonna budge. If it's questionable you'll want to clean it off and maybe even take some sand paper to it to rough it up a bit. Also clean the drive plate off.
And I may add if I may to check for the rod or cable adjustment connected to your drive handle, they can be tightened to have your friction disk press harder against the drive plate. But as Micah noted check your friction disk condition first, if you see lot of rubber near the friction disk and if the rubber ring is near the metal ring holding it then it's time for replacement.
Good Luck

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post #4 of 21 Old 12-02-2014, 08:46 PM
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Agree to check the friction wheel to drive platter connection first. You say the belts are fine and accounted for.
Looking inside the belly at the friction wheel and drive platter. When you squeeze the clutch handle at the handlebars, do the friction wheel and platter meet? Without squeezing they should be 1/16" apart at rest per the manual. You said everything inside the drive moves.
When you select a gear/speed, is the friction wheel moving sideways away from the center of the platter? It should.
If so, select say "3" and start the engine. Engage the clutch handle and you get no movement, try pulling up on the handle bars to clear the wheels off the ground. Do they turn now? If so you may have lost a key in the hub the friction wheel attaches to, or the nut is not snug on the friction wheel. Check out the second diagram below and see 10, 11, and 4. Easy way to check is with engine off, grab hold of the inner chain that hooks to the friction shaft sprocket on the opposite end of 11 (use a heavy glove or rag). Try turning the friction wheel either way with your other hand. The chain and sprocket should follow your movement. If they don't that 10 key could be shot.
If that checks out, engine off, clamp the drive lower pulley tight in a way that wedges the clamp/visegrip against the body or frame. Reach inside the belly area and try to rotate the platter that the friction wheel mates with. If you can turn that platter/plate you may have lost the key inside the plate shaft (first diagram, see 18 and 19). Or the set screw in the drive pulley (first diagram see 25, 26, and 27).

Another spot to check is just to the right of the differential (inside the belly along the wheels axle) for a roll pin or on some models a bolt (see 3rd and 4th pic) That pin/bolt needs to be there for the axles to rotate under load.
Another off chance is your big wing nut on the left wheel is spun way out on it's threads, righty tighty that up snug and try a running engine clutch handle engagement if you find it loose.
Can you snap some pics of the belly area and the belt area (belt cover off) Someone may be able to see something completely missing, or in the wrong place that will solve your issue. Just FYI

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post #5 of 21 Old 12-06-2014, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the belt area. Both belts are in place. The loose one is the one that engages the blades.


Here is the compartment. Both chains are on the sprockets.


A close up of the friction plate. There does not appear to be any excessive residue on the plate. The rubber is a bit cracked. When I squeeze the handle, it does make good contact with the plate and I can not move it by hand.



A close up of the chains.


A close up of the belts in the compartment.


To my eyes, the belts and chains and friction wheel seems okay. The differential might be the next place to look then?
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post #6 of 21 Old 12-06-2014, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insanity View Post
Here is the belt area. Both belts are in place. The loose one is the one that engages the blades.


Here is the compartment. Both chains are on the sprockets.


A close up of the friction plate. There does not appear to be any excessive residue on the plate. The rubber is a bit cracked. When I squeeze the handle, it does make good contact with the plate and I can not move it by hand.



A close up of the chains.


A close up of the belts in the compartment.


To my eyes, the belts and chains and friction wheel seems okay. The differential might be the next place to look then?
There appears to be a missing roll pin/bolt in your third picture.

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post #7 of 21 Old 12-06-2014, 10:19 PM
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DB is right, you're missing the roll pin I have shown with the small screwdriver above.
The friction wheel looks like part of the pin is lodged in there so you may be able to use that for a diameter reference
If you have the machine tipped up, you can hold the differential or left wheel and turn the right wheel to locate the hole on the inner axle shaft. You may have a piece of the pin still in the inner shaft. Could be a small bolt and nut too, but the wear/rust pattern looks like it was a pin

Last edited by jtclays; 12-06-2014 at 11:05 PM.
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post #8 of 21 Old 12-06-2014, 10:43 PM
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Since you're already in there, you should look at the axle bushings. They'll be right where each wheel hub meets the tractor body and fit in the hole of the tractor body. If worn badly,they will let the axle buck up and down and put stress on that pin you're missing. You can just wiggle the left wheel (chain side) as you have it in the pics and kind of tell. They usually wear in the upper half as the weight of the machine is down and the ground keeps contacting the tires, wheels and axle up. If they are just egged/ovaled at the top, you can try rotating the bushing around in the hole to put the thicker side at 12 o'clock until you can get new. I'd replace the friction wheel after you verify the bushings are OK or replaced, along with your pin obviously.

Last edited by jtclays; 12-06-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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post #9 of 21 Old 12-07-2014, 01:27 AM
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Are the axles just sleeves?


And good catch on the pin in the rubber. Missed that one totally.

Garage:
MTD....2 stage(modern 8.5 HP) not my favorite
Honda HS622 TA-B - acquired at an auction- nice machine for it's size.
Toro S-140- Picked it up on trash day... it runs, sort of.
Yamaha YS 240 TB "Ricky" latest Craigslist find- on the bench now.
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post #10 of 21 Old 12-07-2014, 06:37 AM
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I'd still replace that rubber drive. It looks like it's pretty far gone and with the roll pin stuck in it... .

Joe

Sent from my junky old Hisense 7" tablet that I can barely see.
Toro 724
Toro CCR 3650E
Toro 5/21 sold
Ariens 5/22 ss ..Sold
Ariens Sno Tek 7/24 sold.
Old green plastic snow shovel... Sent.to shovel Heaven
Old quarry shovel for ice.
New.green shovel
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