Restoring a 726 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 27 Old 04-05-2015, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Question Restoring a 726

Hi All;

New to this site. I have a 70's 726 which I am doing full restoration on.
Serial# P726F 072642M Is this from 1976?
Had it now for 15 years with no problems, but time for a complete overhaul. H70 motors 1976 and '78(I have 2, one found in neighbors' garbage) have both been totally restored (rebored and all...). Will be replacing all auger and input shaft bearings as well as the driveshaft ones. Since I am running wheel chains, I have made 3/16" thick brackets which will bolt on to the tranny housing to support additional external bearings similar to the monster V-twin Ariens on this site.

I am in the process of trying to remove one of the primary augers which is rusted in place. Have tried a propane torch with a steering wheel puller mounted on the shaft end, lots of penetrating oil...hasn't moved at all. Will bring it to work and to get more heat. The bronze gear is still press fitted in place, Should I remove it first? I'd rather not as it's located correctly from the factory now. I'm lucky that I am a Cad Designer in a large sheet metal manufacturer, and have access to all the toys...Lasers, press brakes, welding etc. Unless someone has a home remedy....

Anyone knows where I can get the auger differential oil seals on line? Are they unobtaininum? Are they a PITA to change?(I have service manual) If I can't find them, I'll use 00 grease as someone has suggested here. At the moment , I'm using 80-90 oil which needs to be refilled at the end of each season.

Only thing I can't do is a nice paint job, have compressor., but no paint gun. I guess I'll brush and spray paint. Oh well; At least it's protected.

Wish I found this site sooner, Lots of info here...

Unfortunately most of the snow missed us here in Montreal this year and went south. Just cold and no fun outside with my toy.

Any input is appreciated, Thanks in Advance.
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post #2 of 27 Old 04-05-2015, 09:38 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forum OLD Deere. Here is a link to the Deere service manual that will help with current and future repairs. The manual is 33 megs in size and could\will take awhile to download, but worth having.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9k1uzy1s5s...1234-01740.pdf

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post #3 of 27 Old 04-05-2015, 09:53 PM
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I painted my old machine with a small paint roller it came out real nice.
Hank

1986 Landmark (MTD) 26" 2 stage with HM80
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post #4 of 27 Old 04-05-2015, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Deere View Post
Only thing I can't do is a nice paint job, have compressor., but no paint gun. I guess I'll brush and spray paint. Oh well; At least it's protected.
Welcome Old_Deere

Myself and thousands of others have had good luck with the cheap gravity feed HVLP gun at Harbor Freight. Just Google and see for yourself.
There is probably some Princess Auto equivalent of this HF gun. I hate to see $20 get in the way of brush or roller marks.
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post #5 of 27 Old 04-06-2015, 11:33 PM
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Another tip regarding painting info. There is a ton of stuff at the sister site
MyTractorForums.com with a sub mostly just for painting.
Mechanical, Paint & Restorations - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
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post #6 of 27 Old 04-07-2015, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for the welcome and advice. Found all oil seals and bushings on McMaster-Carr. Auger is still stuck in place, even with mucho heat and beating. Now soaking for a few days in penetrating oil. I don't want to destroy the shaft . May have to slice the auger and weld back together(hopefully a last resort).

Keep you all informed on the progress. Although, if I'm successful in getting it off in one piece...You'll all hear the celebration from wherever you are...
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post #7 of 27 Old 04-08-2015, 09:49 AM
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I'm guess you already know about the JD parts site for looking up parts but just in case: John Deere - Parts Catalog

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post #8 of 27 Old 04-08-2015, 10:16 AM
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A few tips on getting augers off the shaft from recent experience:

If you can get your hands on an acetylene torch, try using it to heat the augers, but you must get them very hot very quickly. The idea is to heat the auger as much as possible without heating the shaft enough to soften it. I recently had the same issue with an Ariens I'm fixing up and at one of the shear bolt holes the shaft softened and collapsed on one side, effectively bending it. The shaft is now junk.

Also depending on your machine's construction, you might be able to do what you want by removing just one auger instead of both. In that case if you can't get one auger loose, before getting too nasty try to get the other one loose - it might come off more easily.

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post #9 of 27 Old 04-08-2015, 10:00 PM
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I remember seeing someone here that resorted to making a cut down the length of the auger to get it off the shaft.
I had a snapper that I soaked with PB blaster for weeks, heated with a torch (just map gas, i don't own an acetylene one). I did the battery charger electrolysis and thought for sure it would work when I saw the rust finding it's way to the electrodes. Bent a puller and well... after awhile I did give up and sold the engine and scrapped the rest. I dont want you to give up like I did though so keep at it. I'm still disappointed in myself.
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post #10 of 27 Old 04-09-2015, 07:25 AM
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I always say you need to be smarter than the machine but with old neglected stuff it's just not always possible no matter what you pull out of your bag of tricks.

I've been working on wheels on a tiller and a blower for over a year. Half an hour here, next week or .. half an hour there and both are still sitting in the shed soaking.

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Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 04-09-2015 at 07:27 AM.
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