MTD 8/26 - Pulley Cover Repair - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-10-2017, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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MTD 8/26 - Pulley Cover Repair

I have a 1995 MTD 8/26, and I got it because the previous owner had the belt pulley cover get cut through from the belts touching it. That cover is toast, so I want to replace it.

Before I start ripping things apart - is the problem I am looking at just a loose belt, or is it something worse? Should that spring be extending or is it meant to stay that tight?

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post #2 of 11 Old 10-10-2017, 11:46 PM
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I'm not sure I understand your question because I'm not seeing a problem except possibly belt guides but...

When you squeeze the handle, the idler pulley should squeeze against the belt to tighten it up so that it can drive the augers.
When you release the handle, the idler pulley should move back away from the belt to let it go slack so that it stops driving the augers.
Simultaneously, when you release the handle, a little lever with a brake pad on it should push against the big auger pulley to make it stop and to keep it stopped (instead of creeping slightly)

At first glance the basic operation looked OK but I couldn't see the brake engaging because it's low down and out of sight... but I think I heard it clunk as it hit the big auger pulley (which is a good thing).
The squeaking is obviously just crying out for lube.

Usually, when the belts are in the loose position, there should be a couple of belt guides (metal rods) next to the belts to keep them in a well-behaved position so they don't fall off the pulley.
I don't think I saw them
That was a generic statement for belt guides on most snowblowers.. maybe this particular model does not have belt guides... check the exploded parts diagrams as described below.



If you can find the exact model number and serial number from a decal, you will be able to look up exploded diagrams showing all the parts and you'll see if those belt guides should or should not be there.
Post the model numbers and serial numbers for the snowblower

I put a FAQ together yesterday that shows you how to get from those model numbers to the parts diagrams and then how to find parts at low prices if you need to order them
Here it is: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1293113-post4.html

The basic ideas for auger belts are described in this next video... you have two auger belts instead of one but that's just a detail. The concepts are the same.
If any of this is news to you then I recommend watching several DonyBoy videos. He covers just about anything you could ever need to do on a snowblower. Best videos around too.

Last edited by unknown1; 10-11-2017 at 02:26 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-11-2017, 12:23 AM
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those crappy mtd blowers are known for cracking where the blower unit attaches to the tractor because the metal is of poor quality and is extremely thin


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post #4 of 11 Old 10-11-2017, 05:52 AM
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That is Typical of those MTD's to eat the belt cover, Replace both Belts and the cover. I have Covers Available, $20 Shipped. PM if interested.
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-11-2017, 11:26 AM
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Just occurred to me what you might be saying..
If the belts don't seem to be tight enough when you pull the handle then there's two solutions in the general case depending on design.
1) If the idler pulley is mounted on a slot .. move it towards the belts (I don't think I saw that slot on yours due to the camera angle)
2) Adjust the cable to make it a bit shorter somehow. There will probably be a screw-thread somewhere on the cable with a lock-nut. Sometimes that is hidden inside an outer sleeve or an outer spring at the bottom of the cable. Sometimes it is up top where the cable connects to the handle-bars.
$0.02
DonyBoy has videos for "adjusting auger belts".. google that... he probably covers all the possible cases or maybe just one depending on the machines he had when he made the video.

Edit: Here are the 2 examples

(1) Adjusting pulley on a slot:

(2) Pulley adjusted by cable:

Last edited by unknown1; 10-11-2017 at 01:16 PM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-11-2017, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuart80112 View Post
Just occurred to me what you might be saying..
If the belts don't seem to be tight enough when you pull the handle then there's two solutions in the general case depending on design.
1) If the idler pulley is mounted on a slot .. move it towards the belts (I don't think I saw that slot on yours due to the camera angle)
2) Adjust the cable to make it a bit shorter somehow. There will probably be a screw-thread somewhere on the cable with a lock-nut. Sometimes that is hidden inside an outer sleeve or an outer spring at the bottom of the cable. Sometimes it is up top where the cable connects to the handle-bars.
$0.02
DonyBoy has videos for "adjusting auger belts".. google that... he probably covers all the possible cases or maybe just one depending on the machines he had when he made the video.

Edit: Here are the 2 examples

(1) Adjusting pulley on a slot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQ7jB2H_z5Y

(2) Pulley adjusted by cable:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrkfWOoh2yw
Thanks for all the info! I didn't get a chance to look at everything tonight so I'll try to dig into it tomorrow.

I know I don't have a slot on the idler but I think it can be adjusted from the back.
This engine does not have guide bolts unfortunately.
Even if the pulley needs to be tighter, both the auger and drive belt look like they've seen better days and could probably stand a replacement.

Once I get that done, I need to replace the tracks on it, although $150-ish per track doesn't look so hot
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-11-2017, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalkThisWhey View Post
... Once I get that done, I need to replace the tracks on it, although $150-ish per track doesn't look so hot
I don't know how familiar you are with snowblowers and brands of snowblowers etc. and how long you've been lurking here on the forum.
I would seriously think twice about investing $300 into that machine. It will probably serve you well and get the job done but it is not one of the better-made brands.

Firstly.. do you actually NEED tracks (for example... gradients and hills on your property)?
If not, it's highly likely that you can swap them out for wheels instead.. we would need explicit model numbers etc to be certain.
The next thing I'd suggest is to scour craiglist for a way to get those wheels at low cost.
You could, for example, find a machine with matching wheels where the engine is trashed or the auger gearbox is trashed and pick that up for free or just a few tens of dollars.
Alternatively you could buy just a set of wheels (used) for a similar price (tens of dollars).

As for the belts.. sure.. why not if they are worn.
Make sense?
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-12-2017, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuart80112 View Post
I don't know how familiar you are with snowblowers and brands of snowblowers etc. and how long you've been lurking here on the forum.
I would seriously think twice about investing $300 into that machine. It will probably serve you well and get the job done but it is not one of the better-made brands.

Firstly.. do you actually NEED tracks (for example... gradients and hills on your property)?
If not, it's highly likely that you can swap them out for wheels instead.. we would need explicit model numbers etc to be certain.
The next thing I'd suggest is to scour craiglist for a way to get those wheels at low cost.
You could, for example, find a machine with matching wheels where the engine is trashed or the auger gearbox is trashed and pick that up for free or just a few tens of dollars.
Alternatively you could buy just a set of wheels (used) for a similar price (tens of dollars).

As for the belts.. sure.. why not if they are worn.
Make sense?
I'd love to swap the tracks for wheels but I'm not sure how I could do that.
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-12-2017, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by WalkThisWhey View Post
I'd love to swap the tracks for wheels but I'm not sure how I could do that.
Look at these pictures (attached at the bottom) and get the general idea clear in your head.

What would the machine with wheels look like if you took off the wheels?
What would the machine with tracks look like if you took the ENTIRE track assembly off?
They'd look the same.
You'd have a partially dismantled machine with axles sticking out on each side

Onto those axles you could put either wheels or tracks.... your choice.
Making more sense?

Look at the way your tracks are connected to the axle.
There should be a cog (sprocket) with a chain on it inside the track assembly (you may have to remove the side plate off the tracks to get access to it but you'll see it without moving the plate hopefully).
That sprocket is held on to the axle with a single bolt
remove that bolt and the entire track assembly slides off the axle (shaft)
Then slide a wheel onto that shaft
Fasten it onto the shaft and you're done

Watch this video.. it'll make more sense after you've seen the machine with the wheels off
Taking wheels off :
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Last edited by unknown1; 10-12-2017 at 10:29 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-12-2017, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuart80112 View Post
Look at these pictures (attached at the bottom) and get the general idea clear in your head.

What would the machine with wheels look like if you took off the wheels?
What would the machine with tracks look like if you took the ENTIRE track assembly off?
They'd look the same.
You'd have a partially dismantled machine with axles sticking out on each side

Onto those axles you could put either wheels or tracks.... your choice.
Making more sense?

Look at the way your tracks are connected to the axle.
There should be a cog (sprocket) with a chain on it inside the track assembly (you may have to remove the side plate off the tracks to get access to it but you'll see it without moving the plate hopefully).
That sprocket is held on to the axle with a single bolt
remove that bolt and the entire track assembly slides off the axle (shaft)
Then slide a wheel onto that shaft
Fasten it onto the shaft and you're done

Watch this video.. it'll make more sense after you've seen the machine with the wheels off
Taking wheels off :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af0qEgpi_jw
Thanks man, that's a good overview and I think I'll take a look at my machine more closely. I'm starting to weigh the idea of selling this and getting more reliable brand though. The one thing a conversion to wheels would do to me is take a lot of time that I'm short on now. I've done enough car/motorcycle projects to know a straightforward swap on paper is rarely straightforward in real life.
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