MTD Yard Machine 10HP 28" snowblower drive not engaging, machine barely moves... - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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replaced the belt, adjusted the cable, the drive belt still does not spin in neutral, meaning too loose.. loose as heck... bad tensioner? seems as though the tension spring is too long, no tension on the belt drive belt should be tight all the time as its the wheel plate and rubber wheel that makes the machine move, not the belt by itself.. correct?
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post #12 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 02:46 PM
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post #13 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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My gosh! You are right on the money...
Allow me to respond- First, yes, as you described, the idler pulley is mounted to the motor, the pulley spring hooks to the bottom of the pulley housing, other end of the spring connects to a bolt threaded into the motor on the other side of the shaft. And yes to the belt number, that's what I purchased..
Now as far as the 2 piece pulley for the drive belt, it does split in two as your photo shows... but I'm confused on your instructions to spin the PTO(not sure what PTO stands for) sheave after leaving pressure on the belt... is this the lower, under the machine aluminum wheel that the drive belt hooks up to or the upper drive pulley? Is the key replaceable...?
I have done several shear key replacements on lawnmowers, is this what might be the problem? Again, I appreciate your assistance.. I'm getting closer to figuring this out... Well looks like I bought a brand new belt for nothing but thats ok. I did make one more mistake I will share... I thought by shortening the tension spring it would put the necessary pressure needed on the belt to engage... I used needle nose cutters and spread the spring out and shortened it... oh well, Ill have to purchase another spring.. part number MTD OEM 932-0710.. I'll wait to hear back! Thx Brother!
Anthony
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post #14 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 05:34 PM
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if/when u put it in drive see what the engine pulley is doing, if under load(in drive) and motor pulley stops turning but engine shaft is still turning then looks like a sheared key in the engine pulley, and yes it would cause same problem as in a lawn mower key broken.
correct me if i'm wrong, pto sheave aka main engine drive pulley, the one w/a possible broken key

Last edited by vinnycom; 12-02-2017 at 05:47 PM.
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post #15 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 05:54 PM
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i would remove the spark plug wire, cable tie the drive handle down remove the belt cover, stand it on its nose, remove the pan , turn the tires to see where the slippage is happening. and its odd that the wheels arent pinned on the axle? pics?

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Last edited by nwcove; 12-02-2017 at 06:00 PM.
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post #16 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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So I just removed both halves of the drive pulley... both key areas in each half are in tact. I attempted to spin the split pulley on the shaft and it catches the slit in the motor shaft... Im confused on where the shear key is located for the engine pulley? do you mean the drive pulley? sorry, confused on where to look.. thx!
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post #17 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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I did try this... I clamped the drive handle to engage the drive, tipped the machine and tried to move the wheels, the wheels dont move, the rubber donut friction drive wheel locks down on the drive plate tight..theres nothing wrong with that part... the drive belt does not get tight, i purchased a new drive belt but it was identical to the old one... I cant figure this out..
the wheels are not pinned on the axle, they are bolted on.... each side has. at the hand bars, a lever to pull for traction on one side or the other..hard to explain what that is..
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post #18 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 06:17 PM
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k, engine on, lever for drive tied down, belt cover off, belly pan removed.
you should see drive pulley turning visible either from belly pan area or from top of machine under drive pulley depending on machine.
idler pulley for drive pulley turning.
rubber friction wheel turning.
drive disk wheel turning, the flat disk where the rubber friction wheel makes contact to.

warning: if all these are turning then the wheels must also be turning "unless" you have a broken chain and or sprocket/gear going to/attached to the wheel shaft
u can make vid of all these points for us to see

Last edited by vinnycom; 12-02-2017 at 06:23 PM.
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post #19 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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you are correct on everything you wrote.... however when engaging the drive lever, the rubber wheel disk does not spin the disc because the drive belt is too loose, tightening the drive cable doesn't help at all
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post #20 of 27 Old 12-02-2017, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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i can make a video, I understand if my description is not clear. The machine moves for a second, than stops moving, it tries to move but the drive belt is too loose, it supposed to be spinning on the the drive pulley at the shaft where the auger pulley is, but it doesnt, even being on the drive belt tensioner properly, the belt should be on tight, when starting the machine the drive pulley is not spinning the drive belt as it should meaning there is an issue somewhere with the belt, the belt drive pulley or the drive wheel below under the belly pan...
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