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post #1 of 10 Old 12-12-2018, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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carb removal

anyone taken off the carb on a mtd 2620 with a 208 cc mtd engine yet?

i'm looking at my first for my BIL. and pretty much going OMG how much more do i have to pull off to get it off and rebuild it or even replace it ,for sure it's a rpita even with the shop manual which is pretty much worthless ,take this off take off 6 bolts,take this off,

d .
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post #2 of 10 Old 12-12-2018, 05:24 PM
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we got spoiled working on the Tecs and old Briggs's....I've done some work on newer stuff and done OK, but not as much fun .......
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post #3 of 10 Old 12-12-2018, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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yes not fun, imm powermore stinks , spent 2 hours and got nowhere, have the motor off the frame to get at two shroud bolts
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post #4 of 10 Old 12-12-2018, 09:34 PM
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Not a fun job. But not bad after you do a few. Putting it back together can be a challenge, also.




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post #5 of 10 Old 12-12-2018, 10:05 PM
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If it's what I'm thinking it is, the two Acorn bolts on the front left of the plastic cover holds down the carb, do those last.


The rest are 10MM bolts, not sure how many, about 8 I think. You will need the following, all 10MM:


1. Open end wrench or better if you have a ratcheting box wrench

2. Socket and ratchet 3/8
3. Long extension for the socket
4. Phillips Head


First, use the long extension, I think mine is 12 inches or so, and take the bolts off the belt cover. Pull the belt cover off. You have to do this to get to 2 of the bolts


second, take off the metal cover that's over the exhaust. There's two bolts on there you'll need the open end to get off. They are in line vertically and close.



third, take the two screws off the starter button housing on the opposite side from the carb. This is what the phillips head is for.


Finally, remove the rest of the 10MM screws.



Lastly, the Acorn screws.


When pulling off that last plastic cover, make sure to hold your hand under the carb. Some use a bracket that is screwed to the carb, others use spacers that can fall off , be ready to catch them


Remove the linkage, and governor spring, and you're done. Careful on the spring, don't damage it. These motors are done the easy way, with the governor spring and rod into two different holes. Sometimes you find them in the same hole, that's a PIA.



Not tricky, and it probably took me longer to write this than for you to do it.

Last edited by jsup; 12-12-2018 at 10:07 PM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 12-13-2018, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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2 problem muffler shroud bolts are under the steel shoot support.cover plate ,darn thing is bolted right over them to the engine ,hense needing to remove the motor, broke the choke and throttle levers trying to pull them off as the shop manual states, 4 hours and it's off only to find i need to buy a full carb as the needed parts are NAS not available separately

if this was not my BIL's i would have told him junk it.

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post #7 of 10 Old 12-13-2018, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
we got spoiled working on the Tecs and old Briggs's....I've done some work on newer stuff and done OK, but not as much fun .......
OHH how true , i've had a easier time working on them and twin kohlers , fact even a old 2 stroke detroit diesel is easier
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post #8 of 10 Old 12-13-2018, 05:41 PM
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The shrouding is quite ridiculous. Itís a bunch of bolts but the shroud can be removed. The trick at least with the 357cc powermores is to remove the bolts holding the handle bar to the tractor assembly to be able to slide the carb off the studs.

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post #9 of 10 Old 12-13-2018, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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this one is a under powered 208 cc. got to get him a new set of skids also, can't believe how worn in so few of hours,
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-14-2018, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys and many times over,

yep i took off to much, felt the muffler shrouding had to come off, dead wrong, jesup had it dead on, 6 10mm bolts and nuts, 2 pita knobs for the choke and throttle. could have saved me pulling the motor off,

found out it's better to change the carb with new as just a new needle did not work, still leaked, dealer needed to sop a new one, so from him next week, found the correct part number, ' Troy-Bilt 951-14026A" amazon 15 bucks dealer 69 bucks, should have it in a few days thanks to prime membership

up side of amazon is it's a kit all 3 gaskets, new fuel and primer hoses, new primer, a in line mini filter, and a new touch spark plug,dealer is a bare carb extra for the gaskets and hoses making for near 100 bucks with state tax

so again thank you all
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