27" 8HP Trackdrive SnowKing won't start - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 05:16 PM
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I guess you can test for compression but unless you are able to see the cylinder walls it sounds like you may be pulling the head. I don't see where you mentioned what engine this is.
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post #12 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 05:40 PM
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You didn't mention if you've pulled the belt cover to see if the belt(s) are loose on the pulley(s). If one of the tensioners is stuck it will cause some pretty hefty drag when trying to start the machine.

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post #13 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 06:28 PM
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Yes, I would remove all the belts from the engine. This will completely isolate the engine from the rest of the machine and let you know if the issue is the engine or something in the transmission or something.

Check the oil level as well. I don't think I have ever heard of hydrolock from the bottom, but I would think the same applies if the piston can't go down as if it can't go up.

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post #14 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 09:13 PM
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If it's hard to turn with the spark plug removed then it's not hydrolocked in the traditional sense (above the piston).

Like Shryp said, it could have to do with the oil level in the crankcase, but I'd be surprised. Oil should be coming out of the crankcase breather if that was the case. But, as a test, while you're double-checking the oil level (just to be safe), leave the oil fill cap removed, and try turning the engine over. If it suddenly turns freely, then it has something to do with the crankcase oil level, maybe somehow being WAY too high.

But I'm also curious about what you'll find under the belt cover, for instance. Maybe something is just jammed up.

About the seller saying it's bad gas, I disagree. Bad gas won't make it so that you can't rotate an engine by hand. I'm glad there are no metallic scraping or clunk noises, at least, that's good. See what you find with the belts, and if there's nothing there, maybe peek at the flywheel area. If it has an electric start, is the starter's gear retracted, and disengaged from the teeth on the flywheel?

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post #15 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 09:36 PM
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Even though you checked the magnets on the flywheel you might have some loose inside the flywheel. If the coil is on the outside of the flywheel and it has a charging / lighting circuit then those magnets will be inside the flywheel.

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post #16 of 27 Old 01-25-2018, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I will dig in deeper over the weekend and report back what I find.
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post #17 of 27 Old 01-29-2018, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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OK well here is where things are today. This weekend I pulled the belt cover off and made sure there was no physical blockage...none. Next I removed the spark plug and oil fill and pulled the manual recoil...no sputtering or spewing of any fluids although after 1-2 hard pulls noticed that the pulls became much easier again. Returned spark plug and left oil fill cap loose as well as opening gas cap and leaving loose...set to full idle, set choke to full on, primed 3x and started...did not start...again...sputtered...again...fired up, ran and died....again....started and ran (albeit a bit rough) within 1-2mins leveled out and began to idle...turned choke to 50%....idle smoothed out...ran another 1-2 minutes...moved through the gears and checked forward reverse no auger....worked great! Turned choke to off...engine seems good, noticed a bit of smoke coming from front of the engine and around belts...and then BANG!

Pretty sure that BANG means the 8hp Tecumseh is done, through a rod. Completely unable to pull manual recoil at this point.

Any thoughts?!

....So now I am considering picking up a Predator 301cc 8hp engine from Harbor Freight, if anyone has any recommendations or advice I would gladly appreciate it...Thanks.
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post #18 of 27 Old 01-29-2018, 11:15 AM
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It's just a matter of do you like this one enough to spend ?? (HF 301cc) to get it running or apply ?? to something else. Devil you know, devil you don't.
If it's in good shape and you go with the HP engine you hopefully have a good machine with standard maintenance and at least no engine problems for a decade.

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post #19 of 27 Old 01-29-2018, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfriesen View Post
OK well here is where things are today. This weekend I pulled the belt cover off and made sure there was no physical blockage...none. Next I removed the spark plug and oil fill and pulled the manual recoil...no sputtering or spewing of any fluids although after 1-2 hard pulls noticed that the pulls became much easier again. Returned spark plug and left oil fill cap loose as well as opening gas cap and leaving loose...set to full idle, set choke to full on, primed 3x and started...did not start...again...sputtered...again...fired up, ran and died....again....started and ran (albeit a bit rough) within 1-2mins leveled out and began to idle...turned choke to 50%....idle smoothed out...ran another 1-2 minutes...moved through the gears and checked forward reverse no auger....worked great! Turned choke to off...engine seems good, noticed a bit of smoke coming from front of the engine and around belts...and then BANG!

Pretty sure that BANG means the 8hp Tecumseh is done, through a rod. Completely unable to pull manual recoil at this point.

Any thoughts?!

....So now I am considering picking up a Predator 301cc 8hp engine from Harbor Freight, if anyone has any recommendations or advice I would gladly appreciate it...Thanks.
I wonder what caused it to blow, or started the problem in the beginning

Last edited by jsup; 01-29-2018 at 11:26 AM.
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post #20 of 27 Old 01-29-2018, 12:13 PM
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I'd like you to put in the 301cc Predator, so the rest of us can learn more about them

But the 212cc Predator is obviously popular around here, and is cheap, around $99. So depending on how budget factors into the discussion, that's also an option.

People report them being pretty powerful, more than their 212cc would suggest, at least if you spin them faster (maybe 4000-4400).

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