27" 8HP Trackdrive SnowKing won't start - Page 3 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #21 of 27 Old 01-29-2018, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
It's just a matter of do you like this one enough to spend ?? (HF 301cc) to get it running or apply ?? to something else. Devil you know, devil you don't.
If it's in good shape and you go with the HP engine you hopefully have a good machine with standard maintenance and at least no engine problems for a decade.

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Agreed. But there isn't much to these things besides the engine and all the other mechanicals appear to be in good condition. Of course, I thought that about the engine too thats why I bought it.

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I wonder what caused it to blow, or started the problem in the beginning

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From what I have researched this seems to be what happens with these older Tecumseh engines, they work fine one day and the next they throw rods.

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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
I'd like you to put in the 301cc Predator, so the rest of us can learn more about them

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That is definitely the route I am leaning...my concern is I bought the SnowKing used for $150, if I get the Predator 301cc for $200 then I am into it for $350. I have no concern that the 301cc will do the job and I have read nothing except good reviews on the Predator engines. However, I am concerned about how long they will hold up. At best in MN this snowblower will get used once a week for 5 months (so ~20x). So the return on investment if I got 10 years out of the things ends up costing me $1.75 each time I use it. So if I consider going and getting a similar (8/27) new snowblower (they range between $400-$3k, so lets say I spend $1k) my return would cost me $5 each time I use the **** thing. At that rate I could buy 2-3 more engines and replace them everytime I ran into and issue and still come out ahead.

So....I guess financially the Predator makes sense and if I went with the 212cc I would be saving even more $$$. But I would love to hear from anyone that actually has experience doing this and if I could actually get 10 years out of the Chinese (Harbor Freight) Predator Honda clone
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post #22 of 27 Old 01-29-2018, 10:46 PM
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The guys with go carts and pit bikes have a slew of options to bolt onto them and spin the crap out of them and they're not complaining about longevity or reliability. I don't know you'll get a decade but I personally would sure expect it. At least a decade using in a blower.
On the forum you do see a lot of blown Tecumseh engines and it's usually a connecting rod cracking the case under the starter. BUT it's because this is where people come with a problem and as we've mentioned before it might seem it's a common thing but out in the real world there are 50 years worth of these engines running along just fine. A lot of us still have the original Tec engines sitting on our 1960's and '70's machines.

One of the sites with Predator parts: https://www.ombwarehouse.com/perform...redator-212cc/

Youtube modified 212cc Predators: https://www.google.com/search?q=modi...hrome&ie=UTF-8

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post #23 of 27 Old 01-30-2018, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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So if you were going to replace the engine with a predator would you go 212 or 301? Currently I have the Tec 8hp so I am leaning on the 301 myself.
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post #24 of 27 Old 01-30-2018, 09:36 AM
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OK well here is where things are today. This weekend I pulled the belt cover off and made sure there was no physical blockage...none. Next I removed the spark plug and oil fill and pulled the manual recoil...no sputtering or spewing of any fluids although after 1-2 hard pulls noticed that the pulls became much easier again. Returned spark plug and left oil fill cap loose as well as opening gas cap and leaving loose...set to full idle, set choke to full on, primed 3x and started...did not start...again...sputtered...again...fired up, ran and died....again....started and ran (albeit a bit rough) within 1-2mins leveled out and began to idle...turned choke to 50%....idle smoothed out...ran another 1-2 minutes...moved through the gears and checked forward reverse no auger....worked great! Turned choke to off...engine seems good, noticed a bit of smoke coming from front of the engine and around belts...and then BANG!

Pretty sure that BANG means the 8hp Tecumseh is done, through a rod. Completely unable to pull manual recoil at this point.

Any thoughts?!

....So now I am considering picking up a Predator 301cc 8hp engine from Harbor Freight, if anyone has any recommendations or advice I would gladly appreciate it...Thanks.
Do you know for sure what the bang was from? Did the rod punch a hole through the side of the block? If the engine block has no hole, the engine may be repairable and rods are easy to come by. I would look further into this before investing $200 into another engine, especially since the Murray may be a dual shaft engine.

My MTD had a similar symptom a few years back and produced quite a loud bang. Turns out the belt was getting stuck between the belt guide and the pulley and while running, it was smoking and then I heard a sudden loud bang and the engine stopped. The belt had snapped, wrapped itself around the pulley and ripped the belt guide right off the screw. The engine which I thought had blown was perfectly fine after installing a new belt and belt guide.

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post #25 of 27 Old 01-30-2018, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Do you know for sure what the bang was from? Did the rod punch a hole through the side of the block? If the engine block has no hole, the engine may be repairable and rods are easy to come by. I would look further into this before investing $200 into another engine, especially since the Murray may be a dual shaft engine.

My MTD had a similar symptom a few years back and produced quite a loud bang. Turns out the belt was getting stuck between the belt guide and the pulley and while running, it was smoking and then I heard a sudden loud bang and the engine stopped. The belt had snapped, wrapped itself around the pulley and ripped the belt guide right off the screw. The engine which I thought had blown was perfectly fine after installing a new belt and belt guide.
Well I am pretty sure its not a dual shaft setup.

I guess I am not 100% sure...but I am completely unable to pull start it and there was a BANG, so those things combined lead me to believe that significant engine work would need to be done...not sure in MN that I could have a small engine shop repair or even diagnose the issue for less than $100 which is what the Predator 212CC (6.5hp) engine goes for at Harbor Freight. All reviews are extremely positive so that leads me to think and engine swap is the most economical route at this point.
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post #26 of 27 Old 01-30-2018, 10:05 AM
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Well I am pretty sure its not a dual shaft setup.

I guess I am not 100% sure...but I am completely unable to pull start it and there was a BANG, so those things combined lead me to believe that significant engine work would need to be done...not sure in MN that I could have a small engine shop repair or even diagnose the issue for less than $100 which is what the Predator 212CC (6.5hp) engine goes for at Harbor Freight. All reviews are extremely positive so that leads me to think and engine swap is the most economical route at this point.
Pull the belt cover off and inspect the belts. You're going to need to do this anyway to identify what kind of engine you need. My 23" Craftsman which I believe was made by Murray at the time had a 5HP (Now an 8HP Tecumseh) engine on it that was dual shaft. The main PTO powers the auger/impeller and the PTO off the camshaft drives the track drive system. If this is the case for your machine, your only option is another Tecumseh with the two shafts. (As far as I know, at least without significant modification to the blower itself)

If your engine turns out to be blown, I'm sorry for your loss. Tecumseh engines are great motors and have seemed to gain a bad reputation for throwing connecting rods. Shame you're not closer to me because these engines are easy to work on and I would be happy to help out.

Look on the fuel tank side of your engine right below the cylinder. If you see a crack or a hole anywhere, that's a good indicator of a catastrophic rod failure.
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post #27 of 27 Old 01-30-2018, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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@FlamingSpaghetti, thanks for the tips I will check it out when I get home from work.
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