27" 8HP Trackdrive SnowKing won't start - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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27" 8HP Trackdrive SnowKing won't start

I just bought a used Murray Snow King 27" 8 hp track drive (model# 627806X10). When I bought it is started up on first pull and ran pretty good. Got it home and it started up fine and ran a short path at the end it sputtered like it was running out of gas. So I shut it down and added just a little bit of what was left of the gas I had left over from mowing (87 Octane). Snow blower started up but wouldn't stay running so I pulled her back in to the garage and left her for the time being (left the gas shut-off valve open).

A day or so later I ran to the gas station and picked up some non-oxygenated gas (91 Octane) and poured some into the tank. Snow blower started up but wouldn't stay running (choke on and full idle with 3 shots of primer). Started her up again and the same thing (choke on and full idle with 3 shots of primer). Tried to start her again and no dice! Pulled maybe half a dozen times and then all of a sudden there was no give. Could not pull the cord anymore.

I left it for a bit and came back later and removed the spark plug in order to remove the pull cord assembly. Pull cord assembly moves freely so I threw a socket on the engine and tried to turn it over by hand and it barely moves in either direction with moderate effort.

I have since reassembled all parts and topped off the oil.

I contacted the guy I bought it from and he thinks its bad gas and that I need to drain the entire fuel system and clean tank, lines and carb.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be going on?

Last edited by jfriesen; 01-24-2018 at 03:12 PM. Reason: to add more detail
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post #2 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 03:15 PM
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Possibly similar problem? Check the oil and smell for gas. Remove plug and try to turn over.

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...ease-help.html
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post #3 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Compared to other machines (lawn mower, edger, etc...) I think it smells rich. But then I have read its better to smell rich then to run lean.

I should also mention that when I pulled the spark plug it was pretty black but visually appeared to be normal gap and wear.

I quickly scrubbed with a wire brush and returned since I don't think my issue is spark. If someone could shed some light on what all happens in a hydro lock situation and how to correct it...that would be great.
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 03:38 PM
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Check oil level!!!!!

Re: Hydrolock.... the engine's cylinder gets filled with liquid oil, gas or water... since fluids cannot be compressed, the piston in it's upstroke gets to a point where it can't move upwards. The usual test for this is to remove the spark plug and see what if anything comes out of the sparkplug hole when the engine is slowly turned over. This can be very messy. Sometimes no harm is done and after fixing the cause for fluids getting into the cylinder all is OK.... Sometimes, catastrophic damage occurs.

Last edited by Robert A Fierro; 01-24-2018 at 03:52 PM.
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post #5 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 03:45 PM
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Hydro lock is fluid in the cylinder (uncompressible) which effectively stops upward piston motion. The reason to pull the plug (as recommended) was more to see if the cylinder had fluid in it, causing the difficulty in rotation, than to inspect the plug (but that was a good ideaas well).
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post #6 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so when I had pulled the spark plug and recoil start assembly originally, I turned the engine manually and didn't notice and fluid spewing out...from what it sounds like if the engine was hydro locked I would have seen this.

So is there something else that it could be? I dont hear any metallic scratches or clunks really so I feel as though I am a bit at a loss.

Any thoughts?
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post #7 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfriesen View Post
Tried to start her again and no dice! Pulled maybe half a dozen times and then all of a sudden there was no give. Could not pull the cord anymore.

I left it for a bit and came back later and removed the spark plug in order to remove the pull cord assembly. Pull cord assembly moves freely so I threw a socket on the engine and tried to turn it over by hand and it barely moves in either direction with moderate effort.
Does the engine turn over now or not, I'm not clear?
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post #8 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Engine will turn over manually with a wrench with moderate to significant effort.
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post #9 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 04:51 PM
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The motor should turn pretty easy with the plug out, a little harder with it in. If you cannot turn the motor with the pull cord I would pull that and see if that has broken and is somehow jambed up. I'm still not entirely clear, has anything changed since you removed the plug? Before you said you could not move it either direction, now it can move. Are you just being more forceful or is it freed up?
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post #10 of 27 Old 01-24-2018, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfriesen View Post
I left it for a bit and came back later and removed the spark plug in order to remove the pull cord assembly. Pull cord assembly moves freely so I threw a socket on the engine and tried to turn it over by hand and it barely moves in either direction with moderate effort.
Engine does not turn over via recoil start. I disassembled the recoil start assembly (ie. pull cord assembly) and it moved freely and there are no signs of issues with that.

With the recoil start assembly removed I tried to turn the engine over with a wrench. With significant force I was able to turn the engine in either direction, but as you said it should move with minor effort.

Since I did this with the spark plug removed I would think that if it were 'hydro-locked' I would hear spitting and gurgling and fluid would spurt out from the spark plug hole. However, that did not happen.

So now I am wondering what else could it be. Thoughts?
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