Brute shifter adjustment question... - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
toofastforyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Saint-Eustache, QC Canada
Posts: 146
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 5
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 55
Question Brute shifter adjustment question...

Some of you folks might have read my post about my Brute snowblower which I restored… I've used it twice with good results except for one thing: The shifter seems out of adjustment, meaning that I still have reverse with the shifter positioned in "1" (forward 1st gear). I'm wondering if someone here know if I have to shorten or lenghten the shifter linkage (pictured below) so the actual movement of the snowblower corresponds with the position of the shifter?

Claude.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN5939.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	179.3 KB
ID:	162003  

2004 MURRAY BRUTE 10HP 29"
toofastforyou is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 04:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lowell area, MA
Posts: 3,469
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 131
Thanks (Received): 293
Likes (Given): 392
Likes (Received): 702
It depends on which way the linkage moves when you put it into Forward, for instance.

You need the linkage to be more-Reverse, it sounds like. Since Forward 1 is still actually Reverse.

So watch the linkage when you move the gear-select lever to Reverse. Does that push the linkage that you showed down towards the ground? If so, then you need to adjust the rod to make it longer. If going into Reverse pulls the linkage up away from the ground, then you need to adjust the rod to make it shorter.

A different way to think about it: Look at the linkage that you showed, when you're actually in Reverse (ignore the fact that the gear-select lever shows Forward 1). You need to adjust the rod so that the bottom linkage stays in that position, when you move the gear-select lever to Reverse. Whether that means making the rod shorter or longer.

Ariens 1024 Pro
Toro Power Clear 221QR
Toro Power Curve 1800
RedOctobyr is online now  
post #3 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
toofastforyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Saint-Eustache, QC Canada
Posts: 146
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 5
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
It depends on which way the linkage moves when you put it into Forward, for instance.

You need the linkage to be more-Reverse, it sounds like. Since Forward 1 is still actually Reverse.

So watch the linkage when you move the gear-select lever to Reverse. Does that push the linkage that you showed down towards the ground? If so, then you need to adjust the rod to make it longer. If going into Reverse pulls the linkage up away from the ground, then you need to adjust the rod to make it shorter.

A different way to think about it: Look at the linkage that you showed, when you're actually in Reverse (ignore the fact that the gear-select lever shows Forward 1). You need to adjust the rod so that the bottom linkage stays in that position, when you move the gear-select lever to Reverse. Whether that means making the rod shorter or longer.
Thanks "RedOctobyr" for your reply. I went back to double-check and what actually happens is that when I put the shifter in the "1" position, the long adjustable threaded rod pushes the short horizontal lever down (and obviously pulls it up when I want to put it in "R"). So what I'm thinking is that I need to lenghten the threaded rod so it'll push the horizontal lever down even more... 'cause right now, it's not going down far enough which would likely explain why the snowblower still backs up when the shifter is in the "1" position…
Do you think I'm right?

Claude.

P.S: Other than that needed adjustment everything else works great!

2004 MURRAY BRUTE 10HP 29"

Last edited by toofastforyou; 01-01-2020 at 05:00 PM.
toofastforyou is offline  
post #4 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 05:34 PM
Senior Member
 
oneacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,448
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 122
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 427
I really cant tell by the picture, but it looks like that adjustment threaded rod going into the adjuster is still corroded?
oneacer is online now  
post #5 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 05:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lowell area, MA
Posts: 3,469
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 131
Thanks (Received): 293
Likes (Given): 392
Likes (Received): 702
That makes sense to me. I think your second explanation helped me

Forward is supposed to push the lever down. And Reverse pulls it up. When you set the gear-select lever to Forward 1, you're still actually going in Reverse. So you need the linkage to be more-Forward, not more-Reverse like I'd proposed previously.

If you lengthen that adjustable rod, that will push the linkage further down, more towards Forward. I'd expect that to make Forward 1 behave more like proper Forward.

As a sanity check, if your machine allows this: you know that "Forward 1" is actually Reverse, in terms of that short horizontal lever. If you disconnect the adjustable rod, then put the gear lever into Reverse, you can adjust the length of the rod until it lines up with the gear lever.

But I'm making assumptions as to how your adjuster works. On my machine, I can pull a cotter pin, and disconnect the top of the adjustable rod from my shift lever. Then adjust the length of the rod (and move the shift-lever position, if needed), until the hole in the rod properly lines up with the post on the shift lever, then put them together again.

Ariens 1024 Pro
Toro Power Clear 221QR
Toro Power Curve 1800
RedOctobyr is online now  
post #6 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 05:48 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 145
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 2
Thanks (Received): 23
Likes (Given): 30
Likes (Received): 34
If you want to know what's really going on with the adjustment, put the machine in the service position and remove the belly pan. Then you can watch what happens when you shift. Or, just go with your best guess and make an adjustment, it will either get better or worse. I think removing the belly pan is the better choice.

1986 Toro 524 (Predator 212 Hemi, Impeller Mod.)
1997 Toro 724
1997 Toro 824XL Power Throw
toromike is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes Dauntae liked this post
post #7 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 05:59 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lowell area, MA
Posts: 3,469
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 131
Thanks (Received): 293
Likes (Given): 392
Likes (Received): 702
Quote:
Originally Posted by toromike View Post
Or, just go with your best guess and make an adjustment, it will either get better or worse. I think removing the belly pan is the better choice.
Heh, and I would lean towards making your best guess, and trying that The actual adjustment should be fairly quick. But tipping it up may require some steps to make sure your carb/tank don't leak gas, and there's additional stuff to remove & reinstall. I mean no disrespect by this, just different personal preferences.

I'd say adjust it, then start it and see if the speeds are what you want, and adjust again as needed. I have mine biased to a slow Forward 1 speed, and a quicker Reverse 1 speed. This helps me chew slowly into snowbanks, and still back up quickly. I have 6 forward speeds, so losing a little speed from Forward 6 is not a problem, if it means I get a slower speed for creeping into deep snow.

Ariens 1024 Pro
Toro Power Clear 221QR
Toro Power Curve 1800
RedOctobyr is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes toromike liked this post
post #8 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
toofastforyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Saint-Eustache, QC Canada
Posts: 146
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 5
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Heh, and I would lean towards making your best guess, and trying that The actual adjustment should be fairly quick.
I'd say adjust it, then start it and see if the speeds are what you want, and adjust again as needed.
That's what I plan to do. I've already adjusted the rod longer and will wait 'till the next snowfall to see if it's adjusted ok (or at least, see if I'm going in the right direction).
and

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneacer View Post
I really cant tell by the picture, but it looks like that adjustment threaded rod going into the adjuster is still corroded?
Yeah it looks a little rusted in the picture but I assure you that it's very minor as I'm able to move the locking nut freely on it by hand.
and
Quote:
Originally Posted by toromike View Post
If you want to know what's really going on with the adjustment, put the machine in the service position and remove the belly pan. Then you can watch what happens when you shift. Or, just go with your best guess and make an adjustment, it will either get better or worse. I think removing the belly pan is the better choice.
"toromike", I just restored it completely a short while ago and for me, there's no need to remove the belly pan because I clearly remember how it's made inside, plus I took a bunch of pics during the restoration which I can use for reference if needed, but thanks for the suggestion.

Claude.

2004 MURRAY BRUTE 10HP 29"

Last edited by toofastforyou; 01-01-2020 at 06:15 PM.
toofastforyou is offline  
post #9 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 08:21 PM
Senior Member
 
oneacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,448
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 122
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 427
I personally would remove the pan and do a physical adjustment while shifting, in order to see what is going on.
oneacer is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes toromike liked this post
post #10 of 16 Old 01-01-2020, 10:23 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,765
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 12
Thanks (Received): 123
Likes (Given): 144
Likes (Received): 283
If it’s going the wrong direction the wheel is on the wrong side of center, and why would you wait for snow to see if it’s going right, just start it and see if it’s going the right way at the right speed.

Sno-Tek Modded, 15"X-Track tires (Now has same X-Track tires but 13"x4" for better fit), 254cc engine LED light and hand warmers.
Snapper 6/22 sold but not forgotten. Was my first.
Ariens ST1027LE workhorse and going strong.
New 2017 Ariens Deluxe completely rebuilt after losing a fight with a forklift.
Dauntae is online now  
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Likes toromike liked this post
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome